What knives or other tools do you use on moose in the field?

[dallen]

That utility knife in Stid's reply is golden.

 

[North61]

A bit late to the party but I like a thin bladed knife about 4" long or even better yet two as found on my Uncle Henry folder. A rope come-along is handy with 50 feet of rope. You don't need to reset the long rope come-alongs as often. I have a Massdam and it's well worth buying a First World built version over a cheap Chinese one. Some kind of saw is also very handy as are good game bags. The Tag bags are very strong...I find cotton breathes better but take up a heck of a lot more room.

Video Things that work on a Yukon Moose hunt - YouTube

 

[Gooseterrorist]

Havalon is great the outdoor edge has a better backbone so the blades break less, i used my havalon and had no issues with the mosse we shot. for a saw we used a cross cut wood saw they are light and durable cut through the bone like nothing

 

[outdoorsman_3]

As stated check the regulations. I hunted unit 18 this year and we only had to take the meat between the ribs, we did not have to take all of the rib bones. But make sure you take all of the meat, you will be checked.


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[SemperFiHunter]

Latex-dipped Kevlar gloves are essential. Citric acid. Meat bags. A good pulley/rope system goes with me. That's all I need.

Would you be so kind as to enlighten me as to what you use the citric acid for, Sir?

SFH

 

[KClark]

Chainsaw winch, .44 S&W, cordless sawzall and a Wyoming Barry Wood.

 

[AK Troutbum]

Would you be so kind as to enlighten me as to what you use the citric acid for, Sir?

SFH

Helps to keep flies off the meat.


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[AlaskaEd]

Didn't see anything for removing the antlers mentioned. I've used a collapsible small and large Wyoming saws, and a large standard bowsaw. They work well, but take lots of time and energy. I took a sawzall with long double sided reverse tooth pattern blades this year, but couldn't find the blades after the moose was down, so we took the whole head.

We used havalons this year and they work well, but past moose I have used a Benchmade Bushcrafter and buddies have used random other fixed blades.

I don't take the ribs, we just cut the meat out.

I like that meat hook. I'll try to find one of those for this year.

 

[BRWNBR]

Havalon and one fixed blade for the hide cuts is nice. The ribs don't need to be sawed off. They have joints on both ends. Once you find them you can remove them pretty quick and don't have sharp edges.
Don't gut a moose. Filet it. You won't need the come along then. And you'll never have to dumpster dive into those guts. When filet right you can have a moose ready to pack in about a hour and a half on the high side. My first moose took six hours and I said there's gotta be a better way. Next moose took one hour and ten minutes. Someone called me a Liar so I timed the next several. One hour and 15 min was the longest.

 

[Antlers]

Havalon and one fixed blade for the hide cuts is nice. The ribs don't need to be sawed off. They have joints on both ends. Once you find them you can remove them pretty quick and don't have sharp edges.
Don't gut a moose. Filet it. You won't need the come along then. And you'll never have to dumpster dive into those guts. When filet right you can have a moose ready to pack in about a hour and a half on the high side. My first moose took six hours and I said there's gotta be a better way. Next moose took one hour and ten minutes. Someone called me a Liar so I timed the next several. One hour and 15 min was the longest.

Dude - I would love to watch you do that....I am obviously doing something wrong.

 

[AkMtnRunner]

Dude - I would love to watch you do that....I am obviously doing something wrong.

Me too. BRWNBR, care to share a more detailed description?

 

[AK Troutbum]

I don't know if the way that BRWNBR does it is the same way as me, but I also never gut moose. I roll them over on their backs, skin up the belly and skin out the front and rear quarters, lay the hide on the ground (skin side up), making a nice clean place for the quarters to be easily set down on once they are removed. Bag up the quarters as they're removed, then roll the animal over on one side of the clean skin and take off as much neck meat, ribs, back strap, and tenderloin from that side (it's relatively ease to remove the tenderloin without gutting, once the rear quarter is removed). Then roll it over and do the same on the opposite side. It's definitely easier to do it with two people, but I have done it alone before, it's just harder. I've never really timed myself, but I know It takes me a bit longer to do than what it does BRWNBR, I'm also pretty sure he's done a few more than myself.

 

[Snyd]

Yup, gutless method for me too. I've done several of them by myself. Making a gutpile just makes a big mess you have to deal with. By the time you gut the bull you can have half of him skinned and filleted off with no mess.

Although the one I got last year I had to modify the gutless method somewhat. The sucker was in a hole and after doing half of him I just couldn't get him flipped over.

Oh, I use a fixed blade knife, a havalon and a wyoming saw.

 

[Yellowknife]

Best reason to gut is when you can recover the moose whole and then skin and quarter hanging. Sawing down the spine exposes the least amount of meat to dirt and air and results in the highest yield if have the gear to pull it off.



It's also handy when you don't want to do all the work in the cold.



If that isn't an option and you are quartering on the ground.... then I agree with the rest. Leave the guts where they are and just cut the meat off. Have done a few that way now.

 

[Snyd]

Best reason to gut is when you can recover the moose whole and then skin and quarter hanging. Sawing down the spine exposes the least amount of meat to dirt and air and results in the highest yield if have the gear to pull it off.

Ya, it sure is nice to do it that way if a guy has the equipment and muscle. A buddy of mine has a meat band saw and one year I shot one and we brought it out in 2 halves. Front and rear. Hung the halves, cut down the back bone, made 4 quarters. After hanging cut up steaks with the band saw. Man-o-man. Moose T-Bones are the best!

 

[mcseal2]

I need to do more research. The transporter's website states that the ribs need to remain on the bone until brought out of the field. If we hunt in 18 the Alaska regs show that only quarters need to remain on the bone. I need to find out when the trip gets closer exactly where we will be and what is required. I don't plan to waste meat but also don't want to pack bone if it isn't necessary.

Thanks everyone for the replys. I will put out what we plan to use and see if we are screwing up or not.

I have used the Havalon knives in the past. I like the Barracuta for most game processing but like the Piranta better for caping. I got an Outdoor Edge Razor light for renewing a subscription and consider it a good compromise between the two. I've been impressed with the steel in it. I field dressed a muley with it last fall and have been using it cutting net wrap off round bales all winter. I'm still on the original blade. I have cut several hundred round bales this winter. About twice a week I give it 5 strokes on each side on my Cabelas ceramic steel and it goes right back to shaving hair off my arm. I don't know if this blade is just especially good or if they are great knives. I should use another blade for a while and see. As of now my Barracuta has become a camp knife (fillet blade, and saw are handy) and the Piranta is just used caping the head out at camp. If I'm counting ounces hard the Outdoor edge knife with a couple blades does it all and I can re-sharpen them with the steel when I get home.

My buddy I hunt with always takes his Grandpas old knife which I respect. He lost it and we spent about 6hrs finding it last year on our muley hunt but were lucky enough we did. It's an old KaBar folding hunter that looks just like the Old Timer 250T. It's a larger 2 blade non-locking blade knife that seems to have some pretty durable carbon steel. I figure as long as he is carrying it I just as well carry the ceramic steel because it works to keep both knives in business. If he switches to a replaceable blade knife we may change our plan, but I think it's kinda cool that his Grandpa's knife still gets to go. He told us lots of stories about his adventures while we were learning to reload rifle ammo in his basement when he was in his 80's. He definitely helped start us on our hunting path and would love to be with us, he was kinda a Grandpa to me also.

Old Timer Knives: Folding Hunter Old Timer Knife, SC-25OT

I carry a fixed blade daily on the ranch and kinda feel lost without it so I usually pack one instead of the replacable blade knives when not ounce counting. My main hunting one is a Battle Horse knives Blackwater. It is a thinner blade with a 3.5" cutting edge but a longer and real comfortable handle. It seems to work well in the field with just the 2.5oz ceramic steel to keep it razor sharp. If I need a tougher knife than the replacable blade ones this handles that too. It's no big beefy survival knife but just a good knife. This knife, sheath, and steel are about 10 oz.

Battle Horse Knives :: Knives :: Black Water- Fits in #3 sheath



I will pack my Outdoor Edge replaceable blade knife for sure since it and plenty of blades can be packed for 3.5oz. I'll pack the ceramic steel too since my buddy will need it. I'm debating between the blackwater I use most of the time on smaller game and this knife for my fixed blade:

Battle Horse Knives :: Knives :: Scout Platoon- Fits in #6 sheath

That knife is a bit bigger than what most consider ideal for game processing and I'm not saying their wrong. I have done several whitetail with it before getting some of these other knives. I have figured out how to use several different grips on it to skin game really fast with the longer cutting edge, but it's bigger blade lacks a little control when doing finer cuts. It and the Outdoor Edge make a pretty good combo for speed vs precision in my hands and it only weighs 5oz more than the Blackwater. It would definitely not be my choice for a 1 knife hunt, but I'm planning on packing 2 either way.

I have a 24" Bob Dustrude folding bow saw and GB small forest axe I figure on taking. I have used them on canoe trips to process wood during long rainy days to find a little dry stuff in the center. Not something I pack when ounce counting but I didn't figure a decent axe and saw are bad ideas in Alaska. The saw takes Bahco blades, and I'd be interested in knowing what people recommend for bone. Extra blades are pretty light and I could take an extra if one is better for this trip.

Bob Dustrude Quick Buck Saw | Made in USA | Guaranteed For Life | Duluth Pack

Alright experts please critique me. I'm working on figuring out how to make the most of my 100lb gear weight limit, the less other stuff I pack the more fresh food I get to take! I always go overboard on planning because I hate to be the guy who shows up unprepared so I sweat the small stuff more than most. I've been rewarded on past hunts for over-planning, over-thinking it, so I'm not likely to change I guess. I have an extra 3 days worth of Mtn House built into my weight list already in case we get locked in by weather.

Thanks to everyone for their help on this thread and the other moose posts I've made. I appreciate the input of those with experience. I always pack way to much on my first trip into a new area when I don't know what to expect and whittle it down from there. This trip doesn't give me that luxury as much as driving to my hunting area and having spare stuff in the truck.

 

[BRWNBR]

My moose I leave lay on their side.
Cut from Between the ears to base of the tail.
From the knee to the spine (meet the original cut) on the outside of the shoulder.
Hind leg repeat that cut.
Peel the moose hide from the spine down. Front/hind,rib, neck will all be exposed without having to roll or move the moose.
Push guts down, reach inside and cut tenderloin out.

Grab downside hoof and roll. .
Rinse repeat.
You can take front and hind shoulder off by yourself by placing the leg on your shoulder. Slowly stand as you cut. Leg will flop right over once it's cut free. Then remove the lower section of leg. Knee to hoof.
Guts are extra work. Rope, pullies, saws. All extra work. Save the extra energy for the pack out! Be efficient with your knife cuts and the less wasted movement translates into more energy saved.

 

[BRWNBR]

Simple. Pack like your sheep hunting. Small tent, lightweight bag, light weight food. Tarp and game bags be extra. A small fishing pole if your near water. Some season salt to eat whatever wild critters you catch or shoot. Think like a sheep hunter and. Hundred lbs turns into ALOT of gear! Wear all the clothes you can at weigh in. And fill your pockets. Never seemed fair that s 160lb dude can take a hundred pounds and a 250lb dude can take a hundred pounds...

 

[Kevin Dill]

I've been doing the exact same method as BRWNBR for the past many years. Most moose die on their sides or can easily be rolled onto a side. Do the right skin cuts and the hide strips off the first side rather quickly, exposing half the moose. Get all the meat off that side: hind, backstrap, front, rib, neck, brisket and side meat. Inner tenderloin last. Flip. Take the head off before flipping if it will help. I prefer a single light tarp of silnylon or tyvek to lay quarters on for de-boning. I can disassemble a moose pretty quickly, but it takes me longer because I generally de-bone quarters after they are removed and before flipping. I also take the time to remove only rib meat (the rib-roll) and not actual ribs.

I used to bring a hand axe, folding saw and a couple knives (plus sharpener) to the job. Cutco DD blade eliminates need to sharpen during the entire job. Havalon (Piranta or Barracuta) weighs nothing and is available if needed. Axe and saw are unneeded now. I always carry a baggie of labels and a sharpie pen to identify the contents of each meat bag (considering all meat is de-boned and harder to identify).

 

[AK Troutbum]

My moose I leave lay on their side.
Cut from Between the ears to base of the tail.
From the knee to the spine (meet the original cut) on the outside of the shoulder.
Hind leg repeat that cut.
Peel the moose hide from the spine down. Front/hind,rib, neck will all be exposed without having to roll or move the moose.
Push guts down, reach inside and cut tenderloin out.

Grab downside hoof and roll. .
Rinse repeat.
You can take front and hind shoulder off by yourself by placing the leg on your shoulder. Slowly stand as you cut. Leg will flop right over once it's cut free. Then remove the lower section of leg. Knee to hoof.
Guts are extra work. Rope, pullies, saws. All extra work. Save the extra energy for the pack out! Be efficient with your knife cuts and the less wasted movement translates into more energy saved.

I have done a variation of this, but I think for me a lot has to do with where it drops, available help, etc. The majority of my moose hunts have been in areas where it is required to leave the meat on the bone, including the ribs, so I've never boned out a moose. Personally I'm not a big fan of boning anything out, I'd rather deal with the extra wt. For me, it's just easier to keep things clean and easier to move around when it's on the bone. Also, as far as moose go, I've never had to deal with a long pack, all of my moose hunts have been either float hunts or hunts that I've accessed via jet boat. I've never killed one that was very far off the river (with most being right on the river).