VXR tuning help

RyanM

Lil-Rokslider
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Nov 20, 2017
Messages
261
Ok..so I just bought the VXR 31.5, 70# 27.5” draw. Everything is timed, leveled, and center shot is at 13/16”. That being said, I’ve tried 2 arrow setups. Both BE Rampage, one in 350 spine with 200 up from and 300 spine with 200 up front, both cut at 26.5”. I’m consistently getting a right tear, which would be too stiff an arrow according g to the inter webs. I’ve played with both arrows for a couple hours, adding weight, taking away..at one point had 250 grains up front and still getting the right tear. Even tried moving the rest as far left as it would go and nothing. Am I missing something? Would a top hat kit work? Anyone know of any place with a kit in stock and how long they take to ship? Thanks for any help.
 
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RyanM

RyanM

Lil-Rokslider
Joined
Nov 20, 2017
Messages
261
I was wondering if I was. I haven’t changed anything form wise from my prime to the VXR. I’ll try again and pay more attention to form and grip. Thanks.
 

Oldpuck

FNG
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Jul 9, 2019
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Location
SW Washington
I don’t think it’s a torque problem. I’d look at adding or subtracting a cable twist to your top cam. You are saying no cam lean and timing are ok so it could be that simple
 

Zac

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First put everything back in spec. Swap the top tophat first. If your still getting a tear then swap the bottom. If this doesn't work then you need to buy the tophat kit from Lancaster. It ships very quickly.
 

ElkNut1

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OK, is the Top Hat spacer needed because the bow is being torqued? If not does this mean that basically all the VXR models need these spacer kits to maintain broadhead grouping? If it's that common why isn't this matter taken care of at the factory on this expensive of a bow?

I ask because that is the bow I'm looking to purchase, thanks!

ElkNut
 
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OK, is the Top Hat spacer needed because the bow is being torqued? If not does this mean that basically all the VXR models need these spacer kits to maintain broadhead grouping? If it's that common why isn't this matter taken care of at the factory on this expensive of a bow?

I ask because that is the bow I'm looking to purchase, thanks!

ElkNut


I had to shim my top cam over with the top hats, I haven't put it through the shooting machine but I suspect it's from a little facial pressure. I had others shoot it and bullet hole it through paper but from me it was a slight tear, don't remember which way now. I have torque tuned the bow to where it only goes maybe an inch left/right at 25 yards with a tremendous amount of torque in the grip, so I figured it must be face pressure that was causing the issue, plus I anchor a little funny. Bow is a trx 36 not a vxr tho, however they are similar. I can't stand the short ata bows.
 
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RyanM

RyanM

Lil-Rokslider
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Nov 20, 2017
Messages
261
First put everything back in spec. Swap the top tophat first. If your still getting a tear then swap the bottom. If this doesn't work then you need to buy the tophat kit from Lancaster. It ships very quickly.
Thanks. I put everything back and tried again to see if I was torquing and still getting the same consistent tear. I’ll try swapping the top and bottom around if needed tomorrow and then maybe just order the kit in case. If I don’t end up needing it, then I’ll return it.
 

Zac

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Your going to want to keep it in case you ever use a different set up. It effectively works the same as the yokes on a Hoyt. Every new arrow build or draw length, poundage, etc change you make is probably going to need some sort of adjustment. That being said, I believe most people do just fine with the stock top hats. I only needed to rotate the top. Then moved my rest over just a hair. You'll wan't to do your fine tuning at 21 feet, or 7 yards.
 

Zac

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Something I forgot to mention. I was having difficulty trying to figure out how to grip the VXR after coming from a Hoyt. The new Ultraview Grip has made a world of difference. It has a fairly sharp angle that runs right down the life line, can't reccomend that upgrade enough.
 
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RyanM

RyanM

Lil-Rokslider
Joined
Nov 20, 2017
Messages
261
Your going to want to keep it in case you ever use a different set up. It effectively works the same as the yokes on a Hoyt. Every new arrow build or draw length, poundage, etc change you make is probably going to need some sort of adjustment. That being said, I believe most people do just fine with the stock top hats. I only needed to rotate the top. Then moved my rest over just a hair. You'll wan't to do your fine tuning at 21 feet, or 7 yards.
I gave it a go. I do have the ultra view grip and it seems to be less tear. Also swapped the top last night and it helped. Idk if I want to mess with it anymore. Pic below is after playing with everything. I’m sure I can get a smidge better, but happy with the end result after getting awful tears. Ordered the top hat kit, when that shows up I might play with it again to see if I can achieve perfection. Thanks for the help.
 

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Zac

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I gave it a go. I do have the ultra view grip and it seems to be less tear. Also swapped the top last night and it helped. Idk if I want to mess with it anymore. Pic below is after playing with everything. I’m sure I can get a smidge better, but happy with the end result after getting awful tears. Ordered the top hat kit, when that shows up I might play with it again to see if I can achieve perfection. Thanks for the help.
Did you swap the bottom TH as well?
 

JBahr

Lil-Rokslider
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May 29, 2016
Messages
277
The Top Hats shift the cam left or right on the axle and therefore move the draw string and cables left and right as well. This all influences how your arrow reacts as the initial force from the shot is applied to it. Of course spine has a great influence as well. I certainly needed the Top Hat system to tune my 31.5 VXR @ 77lbs 29.5" DL. That does not mean everyone will need it though. Moving the upper Top Hat had a greater effect than the lower.
 

Zac

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Yes makes total sense. Hopefully you have your tophats on the way. You will probably have it fixed in no time once you start playing with those.
 
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