Broadhead tuning

[truthcrab]

Update: paper tuned 6 feet few arrows and 125 and 100gr fp. Low and left tear.
Fixed low tear. Left tear got better but rest is farther then I'd like to be off center shot. Could be me. But I made sure grip was good. Dialed by poundage back holding steady pulling through for surprise shot.

 

[truthcrab]

Don’t second guess yourself - broad heads always right means it’s just not tuned. I have messed with different grips etc and that doesn’t prevent you from tuning, just prevents you from shooting well. Your arrow spine is good and your broadheads are good based on what you have shared.

Your bow shop should have different shims available. Start over and confirm factory ATA, timing, and center shot, before you shim. Right now you should be shimmed left and rest should be way out of spec to the right. Double check cams/cables are set up correctly too, but that should show up in ata/timing check. If the shop says they can’t shim anymore and everything checks out there is a chance you have bigger issue preventing you from being able to tune.

The only shop in the area. Which is an hour away(not a big deal) is a set up with gauges and lazers and kicks you out the door. Any questions about tuning an paper tuning have been shot down. They don't paper tune. The bow technician is a grumpy old man who seems to hate his life and doesn't want to tune a bow. I'm not asking for anything crazy. Just would like to group my broadheads a little closer. Without a draw board how do I check my timing? Standing now I'm about 1/8 to the right of center shot with a 1/2" tear. What does ata measurement tell me about tuning?

 

[Skerhunter]

The only shop in the area. Which is an hour away(not a big deal) is a set up with gauges and lazers and kicks you out the door. Any questions about tuning a paper tuning have been shot down. They don't paper tune. The bow technician is a grumpy old man who seems to hate his life and doesn't want to tune a bow. I'm not asking for anything crazy. Just would like to group my broadheads a little closer. Without a draw board how do I check my timing? Standing now I'm about 1/8 to the right of center shot with a 1/2" tear. What does ata measurement tell me about tuning?

Hard to find a good bow shop!

Without a draw board you can try having someone record your draw (slow motion if needed). Want both stops to hit at the same time, if they can’t be perfect have the top a fuzz ahead.

ATA will confirm cables/strings all are in spec. This is the biggest tuning issue I have personally had on multiple sets of custom strings. Basically prevents you from being able to time the bow correctly, which leads to tuning issues.

Have you tried moving the rest further to the right to bring broadheads and field points together? Center shot will not alway be perfect…One way to check quickly if it is a way too off to start broadheads is to walk back (shoot field points 20/30/40 can be any distance with the same pin) arrows should like up vertically. If not move rest until they do, it’s a better starting point for broadhead tuning vs paper (similar to bareshaft).

 

[fatlander]

The only shop in the area. Which is an hour away(not a big deal) is a set up with gauges and lazers and kicks you out the door. Any questions about tuning an paper tuning have been shot down. They don't paper tune. The bow technician is a grumpy old man who seems to hate his life and doesn't want to tune a bow. I'm not asking for anything crazy. Just would like to group my broadheads a little closer. Without a draw board how do I check my timing? Standing now I'm about 1/8 to the right of center shot with a 1/2" tear. What does ata measurement tell me about tuning?

Sounds like a bow shop really close to me. What state are you in. I’d be more than happy to help you out. I’ve got an archery shop in my garage.


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[truthcrab]

Hard to find a good bow shop!

Without a draw board you can try having someone record your draw (slow motion if needed). Want both stops to hit at the same time, if they can’t be perfect have the top a fuzz ahead.

ATA will confirm cables/strings all are in spec. This is the biggest tuning issue I have personally had on multiple sets of custom strings. Basically prevents you from being able to time the bow correctly, which leads to tuning issues.

Have you tried moving the rest further to the right to bring broadheads and field points together? Center shot will not alway be perfect…One way to check quickly if it is a way too off to start broadheads is to walk back (shoot field points 20/30/40 can be any distance with the same pin) arrows should like up vertically. If not move rest until they do, it’s a better starting point for broadhead tuning vs paper (similar to bareshaft).

First if all thanks for the info!! I have walk back tuned to 30 yards. Which is as far as I can shoot until next week. I'll try to find the specs for ata is this measured with bow at rest position? I can try moving the rest more. Is there a too far measurement off center shot?

 

[truthcrab]

Sounds like a bow shop really close to me. What state are you in. I’d be more than happy to help you out. I’ve got an archery shop in my garage.


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Up in Canada, bc. I don't even know of another shop. But if there was one I'm guessing up to 5 hours away.

 

[bergie]

Don't discount that it could be fletching contact with the roller guard as well. I have a V3 so the roller guard is pretty close. I keep a bare shaft to paper tune and shoot at distance to check paper and recently shot through paper and had perfect arrow flight with the bare shaft but a gigantic 2" tear with fletched. Found that the nock was slightly turned causing the fletching to contact the roller guard (I know seems like an easy thing I should have noticed but I shoot the long max stealth and compound that by putting them on with the EZ fletch, so I have a TON (too much in my opinion) of helical which makes it difficult to tell at a glance is the nock/fletching are in correct alignment).
Interesting how good fletchings are at correcting poor arrow flight when a field point is installed, because I was shooting well but with bare shaft it was poor. Adding a broadhead on the front compounds problems with tuning that a field point can hide, similar to shooting bare shaft.

 

[bergie]

Don't discount that it could be fletching contact with the roller guard as well. I have a V3 so the roller guard is pretty close. I keep a bare shaft to paper tune and shoot at distance to check paper and recently shot through paper and had perfect arrow flight with the bare shaft but a gigantic 2" tear with fletched. Found that the nock was slightly turned causing the fletching to contact the roller guard (I know seems like an easy thing I should have noticed but I shoot the long max stealth and compound that by putting them on with the EZ fletch, so I have a TON (too much in my opinion) of helical which makes it difficult to tell at a glance is the nock/fletching are in correct alignment).
Interesting how good fletchings are at correcting poor arrow flight when a field point is installed, because I was shooting well but with bare shaft it was poor. Adding a broadhead on the front compounds problems with tuning that a field point can hide, similar to shooting bare shaft.

Ah, ignore all I said I just read you are a lefty with a left tear. I would expect to see a right tear if you are having fletching contact and shooting thru paper at a short distance of 5' or so.

 

[truthcrab]

Cheers, still awesome info

 

[fatlander]

I’m not saying it’s the broadhead, because you’ve also the tail left through paper verifying what you’re seeing, but basing any tuning off of just one head isn’t a great idea.

I’d get that paper tune tear figured out then shoot the broadheads. You need to be moving your rest right (away from the riser on your left hand bow)1/64” at a time. Without the ability to shim your cams, the rest of your only option here since you have no roller guard adjust either.


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[truthcrab]

I’m not saying it’s the broadhead, because you’ve also the tail left through paper verifying what you’re seeing, but basing any tuning off of just one head isn’t a great idea.

I’d get that paper tune tear figured out then shoot the broadheads. You need to be moving your rest right (away from the riser on your left hand bow)1/64” at a time. Without the ability to shim your cams, the rest of your only option here since you have no roller guard adjust either.


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I have shot the montec 100gr cs. Same sort of problems. I just had it timed at the shop and changed my arrow set up sp I'm returning. Before this I had the 100gr hitting 2inches right at 40 yards but couldn't get it better. Is there a measurement away from center shot that is The max you'd want to go? I'm at 1/8 right of centershot and I've fixed a 1" tear down to a 1/2" tear

 

[Skerhunter]

First if all thanks for the info!! I have walk back tuned to 30 yards. Which is as far as I can shoot until next week. I'll try to find the specs for ata is this measured with bow at rest position? I can try moving the rest more. Is there a too far measurement off center shot?

ATA is measured at rest. Simple axle to axle measurement.

I’m not 100% sure what the actual tolerance is for center shot, but it’s more than you think. If you move the rest too far it should look weird and way off to one side (arrow no where near straight with string/cams).

Just remember you introduce torque to the system, so you are lining up rest to match cams (lean) so the arrow travels straight. If you perfectly tune your bow in a machine it will still need to be slightly adjusted due to the difference in the torque you apply vs the machine (center shot adjustment).

 

[fatlander]

I have shot the montec 100gr cs. Same sort of problems. I just had it timed at the shop and changed my arrow set up sp I'm returning. Before this I had the 100gr hitting 2inches right at 40 yards but couldn't get it better. Is there a measurement away from center shot that is The max you'd want to go? I'm at 1/8 right of centershot and I've fixed a 1" tear down to a 1/2" tear

I’d keep going. You don’t really have any other option besides shimming the cam or swapping limb configuration around, which you can’t do at the moment.


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[truthcrab]

ATA is measured at rest. Simple axle to axle measurement.

I’m not 100% sure what the actual tolerance is for center shot, but it’s more than you think. If you move the rest too far it should look weird and way off to one side (arrow no where near straight with string/cams).

Just remember you introduce torque to the system, so you are lining up rest to match cams (lean) so the arrow travels straight. If you perfectly tune your bow in a machine it will still need to be slightly adjusted due to the difference in the torque you apply vs the machine (center shot adjustment).

Awesome. I'll try to get those specs figured out. I don't think my grip or form has ever been better as I've found out 17 ways that don't work haha!!

 

[truthcrab]

I’d keep going. You don’t really have any other option besides shimming the cam or swapping limb configuration around, which you can’t do at the moment.


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Sweet, will do. Gonna hit some reps next few days get out of my head and back into flinging arrows. Then revisit. Really appreciate. I'll continue to post my updates as I love hearing this feed back

 

[Luked]

Maybe its just me and I could be way off.
But even with a 27" draw at 62lbs a 350 spine seems stiff to me.
Im shooting 70lbs with a 340spine

 

[Zac]

You could always send it out. I hear very good things about a member on here called Bergie Bowsmith.

 

[fatlander]

You could always send it out. I hear very good things about a member on here called Bergie Bowsmith.

With the cost of shipping and duties from Canada to the States and back, buying a press would be cheaper.


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[Skerhunter]

Maybe its just me and I could be way off.
But even with a 27" draw at 62lbs a 350 spine seems stiff to me.
Im shooting 70lbs with a 340spine

You’re not but 400s are starting to get weak with his arrow set up. 350 is more forgiving.

 

[truthcrab]

Up date: put 100gr fp and hit reps focusing on good shots. Put a 100gr montec cs on and got it to 2inches right at 40 yards. Broadheads grouping well and shooting longer arrow with my small game blunt heads are hitting the same at 15 yards. I think this might be the best I can do for this hunting season until I get a press and learn how to shim. Thanks a lot for all the help. I'm now shooting 416 taw with 13% foc kissing fp out to 49 yards and grouping 3-4 at 50.(40 yards is my max range) anybody have any other broadhead recommendations?