Unknown suppressors OG testing

I wasn't trying to argue with you. I was elaborating on what you were saying. That's all.
Got it.

I don't own a suppressor; I have muzzle brakes on our centerfire rifles. I was 1050yds behind @wind gypsy last year when he was banging away at a deer with whatever suppressed rifle he had, and I can't say I would be able to pick out a suppressed report versus non. I've never been intrigued with them for this purpose.

On the flip side, my wife went to a class the first week of June and banged through a little over 1k shots with an OG. She says shooting suppressed is nearly as cool as being wed to me. So, she ordered one and is jumping through all of the hoops. I also had someone local order an AB Raptor 8 so I can gain an understanding of how cumbersome it is, since feedback in this thread and elsewhere eludes to it being a little quieter.

I still don't see how adding ear pro as part of one's shot process while hunting is a monumental hurdle. Especially when there are so many inexpensive options that enhance nature sounds will killing harmful sounds.
 
Got it.

I still don't see how adding ear pro as part of one's shot process while hunting is a monumental hurdle. Especially when there are so many inexpensive options that enhance nature sounds will killing harmful sounds.

So, you advocate hunting with electronic hearing protection in your ears? Which ones in particular?

For me, “hearing protection” has always meant ear plugs or simple headphones. Neither of which are at all viable for still hunting in hardwood forests. If I was sitting on top of a mountain sniping at unsuspecting animals hundreds of yards away, then wearing ear plugs and/or headphones wouldn’t be an issue.

The decreased muzzle blast also makes a noticeable difference between firing unsuppressed and suppressed. It is far more pleasant shooting suppressed.


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Okay, so I did lack a fundamental understanding of what people are saying when it "handles better." Thank you for explaining that to me.

I have stockys on my hunting rifles and they all feel nose heavy to me, so I was thinking lighter out front was better.

Generally speaking, for an offhand shot with a rifle, you want a balance point near the middle of the rifle, roughly where your supporting hand is located. This will help you hold the rifle steadier than a muzzle heavy or muzzle light rifle.

Handy also usually implies a shorter rifle. Less likely to bump into things.

The OG is great for keeping length down while not being too muzzle heavy.

Muzzle heavy (a balance point closer to the muzzle) might be more desirable if you are shooting from a bipod with rear support. The bipod is generally closer to the muzzle than your supporting hand would be.


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I think you are referring to the 3 classes of thread fits. For internal threads they are 1b, 2b and 3b. 2b is by far the most common and other fits are not commonly used outside of high precision (3b) or fast assembly (1b). I don’t think this is causing the binding issue.
3d printed threads will always corse on at least some level. The nature of the manufacturing means they can never be as smooth as cut or formed threads. If I were designing this suppressor I would size the 3d printed threads to be slightly undersized, then run a tap through them post sintering to achieve the final size. @Unknown Suppressors is this something you do or are the threads straight from the printer?

That rings a bell almost exactly, thanks for the detail. Very interesting, and good to know. IIRC, the problem with the Warcomp and the Proof barrels as a combo was that they were both done to the high-precision spec. I personally don't know why that would cause a problem if they were both precision, but I'm pretty certain that's what Proof said the problem was. Thanks for the additional insight on sintered threads, your approach to the challenge sounds like it would be solid.
 
So, you advocate hunting with electronic hearing protection in your ears? Which ones in particular?

For me, “hearing protection” has always meant ear plugs or simple headphones. Neither of which are at all viable for still hunting in hardwood forests. If I was sitting on top of a mountain sniping at unsuspecting animals hundreds of yards away, then wearing ear plugs and/or headphones wouldn’t be an issue.

We just use the electronic Walkers or Howard Leight muffs that are clipped on our bino harness or rifle sling. I also have two band style foam things in my pack just in case. In the past few years, 80% of elk/deer/phorn we have shot with a rifle have been inside 150yds. In every instance, ear pro goes on at some point during that stalk or, on arrival to a gamey spot, knowing that the intention behind that stalk is to make a loud noise. Absolutely, animals have not been where they were before the stalk began, and absolutely, there are other animals unseen that sometimes become the new priority. What you are calling still hunting is indistinguishable from the tailend of a stalk, and "out west" we still hunt as well.

Like I said before, none of this hunting stuff is life or death, or "have to" scenarios. If I bump an animal and am unprepared to shoot, which absolutely includes protecting my ears, then the animal won and I should become a better hunter. On top of striving to be a better hunter, my opinion is that mindset lends itself to being on the right side of safety and legality as well.
 
My $300 MSA Sordin pro-x muffs are rated at less than 30 db reduction IIRC. So about 170 to 140. I think most foamies are rated a little over 30 db.. So my hearing protection doesn't make it safe to shoot guns either from that perspective.
Actually that’s correct. You need both to truly be safe. A single protector alone may not provide enough protection for even a single shot from a braked rifle. Btw both used together top out at about 50 db protection as bone conduction will pass sound waves limiting muff and plugs to about 50.

This is the common fallacy that protection is all equal. It’s not and a poorly worn foam plug may provide almost no protection, yet a correctly worn one is 30+. People also assume electronic is better, the testing I have been involved with, says it isn’t. Solid silicone or foam is best for in ear. Then add a good muff over the top for max performance. Electronic muffs to help hear.

Cheap electronics simply rely on the amplifier saturation and they get loud, ie 90-95 db. But that is less than the sound level under the protector from the impulse. So the end result is it’s quieter.
 
Actually that’s correct. You need both to truly be safe. A single protector alone may not provide enough protection for even a single shot from a braked rifle. Btw both used together top out at about 50 db protection as bone conduction will pass sound waves limiting muff and plugs to about 50.

This is the common fallacy that protection is all equal. It’s not and a poorly worn foam plug may provide almost no protection, yet a correctly worn one is 30+.
And a muff over shooting glasses that break the seal is lower than stated, also. Double ear pro when shooting unsuppressed.
 
That rings a bell almost exactly, thanks for the detail. Very interesting, and good to know. IIRC, the problem with the Warcomp and the Proof barrels as a combo was that they were both done to the high-precision spec. I personally don't know why that would cause a problem if they were both precision, but I'm pretty certain that's what Proof said the problem was. Thanks for the additional insight on sintered threads, your approach to the challenge sounds like it would be solid.
My wording of "precision" is maybe a little misleading. A 3a or 3b fit is tighter than a 2a or 2b. So less clearance between the male and female threads. In some applications this may be required. But things like termal expansion (of which firearms have a lot), dirt and debris etc can cause fitment issues with tighter clearances.
 
So, you advocate hunting with electronic hearing protection in your ears? Which ones in particular?

For me, “hearing protection” has always meant ear plugs or simple headphones. Neither of which are at all viable for still hunting in hardwood forests. If I was sitting on top of a mountain sniping at unsuspecting animals hundreds of yards away, then wearing ear plugs and/or headphones wouldn’t be an issue.

The decreased muzzle blast also makes a noticeable difference between firing unsuppressed and suppressed. It is far more pleasant shooting suppressed.


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I use the Axil ear buds during muzzleloader season and range time for my ear pro. I will bring them during rifle season but I do rely on my suppressor to mitigate the shot. I have not gotten a chance to compare my OG to my other cans but I hope to try them this weekend and see how it compares.
 
I have hunted with electric muffs occasionally and it is great how much more I can hear, but impossible when there’s dry leaves on the ground
 
I hunt suppressed nearly 100% of the time. I keep ear plugs around my neck and put them in when it’s game time. Hasn’t been an issue at all, but I hunt a lot of open ground, so a bit different than stalking through dense forest.

The only time I don’t worry about it is when hunting with my suppressed 300 BLK and subsonic ammo.
 
Dude, you are the one selling the OG. Is it hearing safe or not? What is the db rating for the product you are selling?

You aren’t selling the Scythe. The Scythe, for all its faults, is advertised as hearing safe and doesn’t make my ears ring. The Scythe’s manufacturer rates it at 132.6 dbA. The information in this thread and other threads, lists the OG’s rating as 132-133 dbA. Based upon that, I expected them to be similar. I was surprised when one made my ears ring and the other didn’t. But if both are “hearing safe” for one shot, it’s immaterial.

You advertised the OG as hearing safe. Then you say that hearing safe requires 120-db reduction. When OSHA defines hearing safe for limited exposure as reducing to 140-dbA. So, your responses leave me really wondering.


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On a 18” Grendel I would expect the true decibel reading to be somewhere around the rated 133dBA as the website says, short barrel, but not a big case. May even come in under that number, I wouldn’t be surprised if it did. If you are ever up in our area I will happily take you out with our microphones to test it! We have shot an 18” 6 creed through the OG several times and it has averages around 135dBA usually. Environmentals play as big a role in that days numbers as anything does. That said, I’m 0% surprised that the scythe sounds quieter, it is. The rating we have of 133dBA is with a 20” .308 using m118lr ammo. The scythe rating for .308 (they don’t specify rifle config or ammo used) is 128.4 dB not sure on weighting. You will absolutely hear the difference between 128dB and 133dB. As far as your ears ringing, that’s your ears saying that it’s time to use hearing protection. What sound level individuals ears ring after a loud sound impulse is very subjective! All that to say, just because your ears ring doesn’t mean the can is louder than 140dBA!
 
On a 18” Grendel I would expect the true decibel reading to be somewhere around the rated 133dBA as the website says, short barrel, but not a big case. May even come in under that number, I wouldn’t be surprised if it did. If you are ever up in our area I will happily take you out with our microphones to test it! We have shot an 18” 6 creed through the OG several times and it has averages around 135dBA usually. Environmentals play as big a role in that days numbers as anything does. That said, I’m 0% surprised that the scythe sounds quieter, it is. The rating we have of 133dBA is with a 20” .308 using m118lr ammo. The scythe rating for .308 (they don’t specify rifle config or ammo used) is 128.4 dB not sure on weighting. You will absolutely hear the difference between 128dB and 133dB. As far as your ears ringing, that’s your ears saying that it’s time to use hearing protection. What sound level individuals ears ring after a loud sound impulse is very subjective! All that to say, just because your ears ring doesn’t mean the can is louder than 140dBA!

Thank you for that confirmation! I finally figured that out from some of the other comments, but hearing from you is very nice.

Edit - Part of my confusion was caused by SiCo listing the Scythe Ti at “132.6 db” with .308. Lack of precision with db vs dbA by some reports makes it hard to know how much quieter it should sound. Understanding it is 133 vs 128 dbA makes it far more understandable.


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Thank you for that confirmation! I finally figured that out from some of the other comments, but hearing from you is very nice.

Edit - Part of my confusion was caused by SiCo listing the Scythe Ti at “132.6 db” with .308. Lack of precision with db vs dbA by some reports makes it hard to know how much quieter it should sound. Understanding it is 133 vs 128 dbA makes it far more understandable.


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Sorry it took so long for me to reply! I don’t have a 6.5 Grendel that we could get an official number from but, I am curious what it meters at!
 
I think you are referring to the 3 classes of thread fits. For internal threads they are 1b, 2b and 3b. 2b is by far the most common and other fits are not commonly used outside of high precision (3b) or fast assembly (1b). I don’t think this is causing the binding issue.
3d printed threads will always corse on at least some level. The nature of the manufacturing means they can never be as smooth as cut or formed threads. If I were designing this suppressor I would size the 3d printed threads to be slightly undersized, then run a tap through them post sintering to achieve the final size. @Unknown Suppressors is this something you do or are the threads straight from the printer?
We don’t print any part of the thread, we print a hole that gets reamed out and single point threaded by SRS. The only time we’ve really had issues with threading one on is when the threads in the can or the muzzle threads are dirty. Powder shakes loose in shipping or after firing that we couldn’t get to come loose in one of our many cleaning steps. If this powder gets on the threads they feel really gritty. A quick scrub with a brush should take care of it!
 
We don’t print any part of the thread, we print a hole that gets reamed out and single point threaded by SRS. The only time we’ve really had issues with threading one on is when the threads in the can or the muzzle threads are dirty. Powder shakes loose in shipping or after firing that we couldn’t get to come loose in one of our many cleaning steps. If this powder gets on the threads they feel really gritty. A quick scrub with a brush should take care of it!
When will the OG L be available for order? Wanna pick up one of each
 
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