Ultralight Ultralight Rifles

I've been checked out of this thread for a while...glad I checked back in. Never heard of this company but I picked up a 12" and a 15". Probably won't replace the Jag on my current ULUL, but the 15" will go on my coyote AR (want to lighten it up).

Also have a desire for a 6x45 UL so I can hunt in WA with it. Hard to build anything AR related here despite manually operated being perfectly legal...the 12" will go on that if I can get parts together. If anyone knows of an FFL that will transfer a lower please DM me...
.300 Ham'r's what you need 😁
 
If anybody is looking to sell a Shaw portless barrel (or other portless barrel) or TN Carbon 15 lower, I’m a buyer.

Both are out of stock for now.
 
I’m about to try out my tegra that’s still in the box since I broke my tnarms lower the other day. Hopefully they will be as good as the TNA
 
I’m about to try out my tegra that’s still in the box since I broke my tnarms lower the other day. Hopefully they will be as good as the TNA
Something to be aware of, and I may have shared already, but the first one I bought had a far too shallow hole for the front pin detent spring. Drilled it out with a cordless hand drill and haven't had to think about it since.
 
How did it break? Haven't heard of one breaking. Will they replace it for you?

I’m almost positive it was my fault. It has a crack from the rear take down pin to the grip. I stuck the grip between my legs and had to use 2 hands to take off my suppressor off. Next time I shot it a few days later it jammed on the first shot and I looked down and saw the crack. I doubt they would replace since it was probably my fault. I broke my bushmaster carbon lower in the same spot doing the same think 10+ years ago.
 
I’m almost positive it was my fault. It has a crack from the rear take down pin to the grip. I stuck the grip between my legs and had to use 2 hands to take off my suppressor off. Next time I shot it a few days later it jammed on the first shot and I looked down and saw the crack. I doubt they would replace since it was probably my fault. I broke my bushmaster carbon lower in the same spot doing the same think 10+ years ago.
Well, I guess I'd have to admit, it would be pretty tough to break an aluminum lower doing the same thing. I'd still as if they'll replace it. They advertise them as being as tough, or tougher than an aluminum lower...and that isn't.
 
I picked up a Roam a few years back 308, 5.9 lbs. Shoots great. I also built a 300 ham'r, love that cartridge. I think Roam is the lightest reliable 308 out there? Scoped and suppressed I am around 7.5 lbs. I also seen were Wilson combat is making barrels for the Ruger ranch in 300 Ham'r . That sounds like a good compact hitter.
Wow that looks sweet is 5.9lbs including the scope?
 
I haven't tried any TMKs in the HAM’R. Like @robtattoo said, they're too long in front to work in the HAM’R. I have some I might try in a Blackout.

If the HAM’R had been a 7.62x38 instead of a 7.62x40 they would work in a 350 Legend magazine. Bill Wilson's goal though was 30-30 performance with better BC bullets and it does seem to do that.

The only bullet I've used in the HAM’R for animals is the 125BT (edit to add that I forgot that I used 3 150 Speer BTSPs as well) so I can't really compare, but it has worked really well on about 9 deer, a black bear and small moose off the top of my head. A great balance of internal damage and penetration IMO.

I do have some 125 SSTs, 125 Accubonds and 110 V-Max loaded that I'll try at some point, but I'm guessing for the HAM’R, the 125BT @ 2.325" OAL is probably about the best all-around for BC / expansion at distance (?). My 125BT load stays above 1,800 to about 340 yards.
The Lehigh Defense 125 tipped Chaos bullets are the bomb, literally, in the 300 Hammer for hogs.
 
I've been using the 110 v-max on hogs, works great. I'd like to do the Ruger conversion just to see what the 150's will do out of a bolt gun. I also like the 130 Hornady's.
 
Catching up on this thread after some big (good) life changes.
I'm circling back around to sending the shaw to LRI with a BCA pencil barrel for the ackley improved chamber, and the bca profile. Then I'm going to see if I can get the speed out of those nickel shellshock cases, and if not I'll just run the LC brass and be done.

But, I ran across something interesting that I wanted to share for those of you wanting to push the .224 bullets faster.
Apparently you can ream (extra long) to the ackley chamber without setting the barrel back, and then with the use of 204 brass, you get another +1 grain of powder, AND no fire-forming! The only rub are new dies and 204 brass. I think I'm going to pass, because green tips in LC brass is good practice ammo, and gives me the fireformed brass at the same time. *I am going to pull the bullets out slightly and seat them to a 10+ thou jam for grade A quality fireformed brass after one firing.
If the shellshock cases shoot strait by some miracle, and don't split, then that might be as fast as the 223-204 or whatever it's called. *from what I've read, fireforming to the ackley actually shortens the case length, so I'm optimistic that the nickel cases won't be jammed in there. I'll start with a half case full charge and step up from there. Hopefully they don't split, and maybe I'll even be able to size the neck and get a second firing. Or, maybe the 2nd firing will be accurate. Should be a fun project.
My apologies if I left anyone in the dark on this project. I've pretty much forgotten where I was at and had to re-read much of this thread to catch up (still more to read). @cbow did you ever report back with your ackley improved results?

*edit/caution. I'll have to reduce the powder charge of the green tips and ladder test to see if the 10 thou jam is safe. Might have to pull all bullets and reduce charge. At least I'll have more precise target ammo in the end if I have to re-charge all of them...

204 thread: https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/223-ai-can-i-use-a-regular-223-seating-die.705146/
 
In case you've already read the last post, I'll add the edit that I'm talking +1 grain OVER the already increased ackley chamber. So faster than the improved chamber. I also put the link above.
 
Catching up on this thread after some big (good) life changes.
I'm circling back around to sending the shaw to LRI with a BCA pencil barrel for the ackley improved chamber, and the bca profile. Then I'm going to see if I can get the speed out of those nickel shellshock cases, and if not I'll just run the LC brass and be done.

But, I ran across something interesting that I wanted to share for those of you wanting to push the .224 bullets faster.
Apparently you can ream (extra long) to the ackley chamber without setting the barrel back, and then with the use of 204 brass, you get another +1 grain of powder, AND no fire-forming! The only rub are new dies and 204 brass. I think I'm going to pass, because green tips in LC brass is good practice ammo, and gives me the fireformed brass at the same time. *I am going to pull the bullets out slightly and seat them to a 10+ thou jam for grade A quality fireformed brass after one firing.
If the shellshock cases shoot strait by some miracle, and don't split, then that might be as fast as the 223-204 or whatever it's called. *from what I've read, fireforming to the ackley actually shortens the case length, so I'm optimistic that the nickel cases won't be jammed in there. I'll start with a half case full charge and step up from there. Hopefully they don't split, and maybe I'll even be able to size the neck and get a second firing. Or, maybe the 2nd firing will be accurate. Should be a fun project.
My apologies if I left anyone in the dark on this project. I've pretty much forgotten where I was at and had to re-read much of this thread to catch up (still more to read). @cbow did you ever report back with your ackley improved results?

*edit/caution. I'll have to reduce the powder charge of the green tips and ladder test to see if the 10 thou jam is safe. Might have to pull all bullets and reduce charge. At least I'll have more precise target ammo in the end if I have to re-charge all of them...

204 thread: https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/223-ai-can-i-use-a-regular-223-seating-die.705146/
My next project is going to be a 223AI as well, but from the ground up with a standard 223AI chamber. My thoughts on it:

Hopefully a shorter throat than a 5.56/Wylde chamber will help the longer, higher BC ELD-Ms shoot more consistently at 2.325" while still maintaining/surpassing velocity due to more case volume.

Tighter chamber and neck diameter for less case expansion and better case life.

Less case stretch might allow just neck sizing (we'll see on that one), but less trimming for sure which adds to case life.

Can still use factory ammo if ever needed, so I can't see any downside to it.

The 88TMK may prove to be the ultimate bullet for it.
 
Funny, I was just reading about match ai chambers. I wonder if they might make extraction with the solo more difficult? You probably know, but you can get that throat you want with the retrofit, but I would like the precision of a tighter chamber also.
Another question I have on that subject; I suspect we might lose a little velocity (depending on where a node lands) with a tighter chambers due to higher peak pressure for the same charge..?

Then again, is there any difference between the wylde & 223 besides the throat? You might be getting what you're after with a ream and setback, as I thought the chamber is otherwise the same(?).
 
Not as light as some of these builds but for a full size standard AR it ain’t bad.

I have a 16” faxon barrel with a Silencerco omega. SFWA 2.5-10x32 in a Monsteum tactical mount. The lower has a LaRue MBT trigger, Seekins lower parts kit, MagPul grip/stock and an A5 buffer system.


IMG_1092.jpegIMG_1091.jpeg
 
My next project is going to be a 223AI as well, but from the ground up with a standard 223AI chamber. My thoughts on it:

Hopefully a shorter throat than a 5.56/Wylde chamber will help the longer, higher BC ELD-Ms shoot more consistently at 2.325" while still maintaining/surpassing velocity due to more case volume.

Tighter chamber and neck diameter for less case expansion and better case life.

Less case stretch might allow just neck sizing (we'll see on that one), but less trimming for sure which adds to case life.

Can still use factory ammo if ever needed, so I can't see any downside to it.

The 88TMK may prove to be the ultimate bullet for it.
Ah ok, ai says that the wylde has the looser 5.56 dimensions but a shorter throat, makes sense. I'm going to price the shaw ream and profile shave down versus starting from scratch. I wonder if the bore would remain concentric to the chamber if the ai reamer is smaller than the 5.56/wylde chamber? Maybe starting from scratch is the best case for accuracy?

*and, has anyone used a legit 223 chamber with the solo, or any strait pull? Might be another sticking point we're yet to discover, and maybe an expensive mistake.
 
Ah ok, ai says that the wylde has the looser 5.56 dimensions but a shorter throat, makes sense. I'm going to price the shaw ream and profile shave down versus starting from scratch. I wonder if the bore would remain concentric to the chamber if the ai reamer is smaller than the 5.56/wylde chamber? Maybe starting from scratch is the best case for accuracy?
I think so, less risk of something wonky with the barrel anyway. I figure I've spent enough money and time on barrels that are decent that it would be worth a little extra in getting something as close as possible to being great; essentially, I want this one to be my "ultimate" UL-UL 223 barrel.

Still thinking about details. Was planning on using the Shaw profile, but I like this little BCA barrel a lot as well. Just thinking I don't want to go overboard on a skinny profile, but this BCA is a good shooting little barrel as far a that goes.
 
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