I've got a couple of 10" Jag handguards I could get you for less than the 250 you've got budgeted. PM me if you're interested.
Ultralight Ultralight Rifles
- Thread starter Thegman
- Start date
grappling_hook
WKR
- Joined
- Dec 15, 2019
- Location
- Alaska
I've seen a few posts about folks using the TN Arms carbon fiber or polymer lower, but not going with their lower parts kit, opting for NFA or something else. What is the reason for the dislike of the TN Arms LPK? Too fragile? Too heavy?
The short answer is it’s heavier.
The NFA polymer lpk is the lightest around that I have seen. It’s all plastic where it can be. TN arms doesn’t sell a lpk that I saw, only a completed lower for $100 more than a stripped lower. For the same $100, you get NFA lpk $35, farrow tech stock $30, and a buffer tube $20 and you will have a complete lower (for bolt action) save ounces, plus not have so many extra parts installed like a buffer/spring, buffer stop/spring, and bolt catch/spring.
@Thegman can answer that better.
I have abused a “mostly” polymer lpk in my 6x45 just swapped out the trigger and it has never hiccuped. I had a few hundred rounds on the polymer trigger/hammer and again no hiccups. I just wanted a better trigger. The polymer wasn’t nearly as bad as a mil spec, but it wasn’t great either. I’d call it ok/manageable.
gtriple
WKR
- Joined
- Dec 15, 2021
- Location
- South Carolina
I plan to just plug the gas hole (lol).
Thanks for the recommendation on the grip. I was going to weigh the NFA grip by itself when I got it and see if it feels fine.
The Smoke Composites is a bit lighter, but not worth the $170 extra!!
grappling_hook
WKR
- Joined
- Dec 15, 2019
- Location
- Alaska
But it looks cool! Totally a style choice, but I already have a Smoke Composites handguard that I really like and just got a Smoke Composites carbon fiber buttstock, so I'm going with their handguard. These builds sure can be a budget build and ultralight, which is super cool, but as someone said the sky is the limit and I'm opting for a non-budget build that won't be the absolute lightest or cheapest, and favors looks and function.
gtriple
WKR
- Joined
- Dec 15, 2021
- Location
- South Carolina
Oh I completely understand. I've got the smoke grip on my Tikka xlr
That's all I've used on all of mine and they've been 100% reliable. Like Taudisio says, they're decent triggers and probably just fine for most builds in the 3.5# range and definitely one of the least expensive options. Up until now all my builds have pretty easily been sub-MOA rifles; I've never even considered needing a better trigger.
On my last build, which is well below 3#, I'm now trying some better triggers to see if I see any differences in consistency. This rifle is capable of exceptional accuracy, but haven't been able to squeeze that out of it consistently. It's not bad, usually around 1.5 MOA, but it's capable of being easily sub-MOA when I'm doing everything the way it "wants" to be shot. Hoping a really good trigger makes that easier to do. All my lightweight bolt rifle’s triggers are 2# or less for a reason and they're actually very easy for me to shoot really well consistently.
All that said, Little Big Gun is easily minute of deer (and minute of moose
) with the NFA trigger and would likely be fine as is for at least 90% of the shots I typically take.I'd suggest giving the NFA a try first and see how it works for you. It very likely will be just fine as is.
This was my initial load development with my first UL-UL 3.5# 300 HAM’R. That was 12 or 13 different loads looking at velocity and pressure signs with I think 3 different powders and the NFA trigger.
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Again, as Taudisio said, it's heavier, and in the one upper I bought with one, it's not a very good trigger. Just a typical heavy mil-spec trigger. I'd much rather spend the money on an NFA LPK and if needed a much better trigger. For about the same money you can get both of those if you find a better trigger on sale.
The NFA grip is just a mil spec type A2, I have at least 4 sitting around from various builds over the years. It works, it’s heavy for what it does, it’s relatively comfortable. Swap it for the hogue and the screw for a v seven titanium and then you can consider yourself serious about lightweight
I do like the grip angle more of the hogue which is a bonus for the weight.
I'm using an SWFA 2.5-10 UL on the current rifle. The main thing I like about it is its reticle that matches the 77TMK really well, (and the weight) but I really don't like it too much on 10x. It has a very small eye box on 10x and it pretty much has to be on 10x for the reticle to match up. It's been fine on shots on game where I used the reticle, but my other scopes are easier to use on their highest power. I don't really highly recommend it unless you can try one and it works for you.
The other main scope I've been using are my Redfield revolution 2-7s with the Accu-Range reticle. They seem to be a pretty good basic scope and their reticle works pretty well for the TMK too. I sight the rifles 2+ inches high @ 100 and use the top of the inner ring for 100 -150 yards if I need that precision and get a longer point blank range with the higher zero. I do have a spare Leupold 2-7 LRD but I don't think I've had it on any of these.
(I take that back, it was on HAM’R II for awhile for last year's moose, that rifle has a Revolution now - I switch so much stuff around on these Lego rifles I can't keep track).
I've pretty much run lightweight 2-7s for years on my other rifles and just migrated that preference to these.
As light as these are, I think it's best just to pick a reasonably light scope you really like in general. A little extra weight for scope you think is great is probably better than saving 3 or 4 ounces on a scope that you think is just okay.
And...if I could run the "perfect" scope for these, it would probably be a lightweight fixed 4x (or maybe 5x) with something like the Accu-Range reticle. The Primary Arms 5x micro prism like Taudisio uses is probably the closest thing to that option.
The other main scope I've been using are my Redfield revolution 2-7s with the Accu-Range reticle. They seem to be a pretty good basic scope and their reticle works pretty well for the TMK too. I sight the rifles 2+ inches high @ 100 and use the top of the inner ring for 100 -150 yards if I need that precision and get a longer point blank range with the higher zero. I do have a spare Leupold 2-7 LRD but I don't think I've had it on any of these.
(I take that back, it was on HAM’R II for awhile for last year's moose, that rifle has a Revolution now - I switch so much stuff around on these Lego rifles I can't keep track
). I've pretty much run lightweight 2-7s for years on my other rifles and just migrated that preference to these.
As light as these are, I think it's best just to pick a reasonably light scope you really like in general. A little extra weight for scope you think is great is probably better than saving 3 or 4 ounces on a scope that you think is just okay.
And...if I could run the "perfect" scope for these, it would probably be a lightweight fixed 4x (or maybe 5x) with something like the Accu-Range reticle. The Primary Arms 5x micro prism like Taudisio uses is probably the closest thing to that option.
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johnnyboots
FNG
- Joined
- May 20, 2024
Pics to come but I got my 300blk Solo to 4lbs 6oz suppressed (3lbs 11oz, unsuppressed) going to try and hit the range this week as August was a killer busy month for me with zero range time. I'm excited to lug this thing around the woods!
Photos, or it didn’t happen!!!!
Any thoughts or are you working towards a possible way to assist with primary extraction for larger cases like 22/6arc or the 24 nosler?
180ls1
WKR
- Joined
- Apr 19, 2020
This would be big along with a non ported 16" pencil barrel option directly from you.
Yes sir it's a progression we've considered over the years. The trick is to accomplished that without turning into a $1,300 Uintah Precision.
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