Ultralight Ultralight Rifles

[Thegman]

I went looking for the magazine with the lightweight article in it, and couldn.t find one on the news stands.

I ordered one online.

Yes, that's the previous issue, one behind the current issue out now. I think the only way to buy it at this point is online. Same price as the news stand.

 

[David Walter]

I just placed an order and waived the discount.

You're right. We should fund the innovators.

 

[WyoJeff]

Still making my way through these pages.....consensus on scope rings?

 

[Thegman]

Still making my way through these pages.....consensus on scope rings?

IDK about consensus, but I'm using Aero Precision ultralight rings. Kind of a pain to align the scope vertically with them, but their light weight makes it worthwhile for me.

I did need to add liquid electric tape (or some homemade rosin fluid) to the rings for the 300 HAM'R. That's a fast recoiling little sucker. 223 didn't seem to really need it, but maybe not a bad idea anyway.

 

[WyoJeff]

thanks, have the Solo and the TN carbon lower on order, just debating 14" plus a linear comp (for noise) or bare 16" barrel

 

[WyoJeff]

223 Wylde.
gonna be a hiking varmint gun not a big game rifle

 

[WyoJeff]

223 Wylde.
gonna be a hiking varmint gun not a big game rifle

 

[Taudisio]

thanks, have the Solo and the TN carbon lower on order, just debating 14" plus a linear comp (for noise) or bare 16" barrel

Probably an indiscernible difference to an unprotected ear. I would assume a 2” linear comp will add a few oz over the pencil barrel. I have a MI blast diverter on a 22” creedmoor and it’s a brick on the end of the muzzle balancing that particular rifle out nicely.

 

[johnnyboots]

Just purchased a Solo 300 that I'll register as an SBR. I plan on taking advantage of the 1:5t, 300bo subsonic rounds as a deer/hog gun. Will also run a Primary Arms 3x prism on it. Build pics coming shortly

 

[StupidLightweight]

Smart plan. An SBR is the best way to build an ultralight AR. For a simple 5.56 straight pull, chop a 20-inch pencil barrel after the gas port, thread barrel, add a can. This results in a barrel just over 12 inches.

 

[David Walter]

The problem with SBRs vs pistols is you have to ask Uncle to cross state lines with an SBR. Not so a pistol

 

[WyoJeff]

upper, lower, barrel ordered (faxon 16)
shopping the butt stock now.
experiences with folding types?

 

[WyoJeff]

These plus 6 Creed

6mm-223/6x45 had a T/C Contender so chambered like the Grendel kills better than it should and maybe wont have extraction issues in the straight pull

 

[Thegman]

6mm-223/6x45 had a T/C Contender so chambered like the Grendel kills better than it should and maybe wont have extraction issues in the straight pull

Your extraction should be fine with the 6x45, as good or better even than 223.

 

[Thegman]

Regarding feeding, rather than extraction, something I've not mentioned before, but is applicable to ARs in general and especially so for the Solo:

One thing I've noticed, and it becomes even more apparent with these manually-operated actions, is that a lot of 223 bullets tend to stick in AR barrel extension feed ramp lug cuts. Not all bullets and not all extensions, but most in my experience.

The "pointier" and smaller diameter the bullet, the more it tends to jam into the bolt lug cuts, and stick a little (75ELDM, for example can lodge pretty tightly). AR dual feed ramps can be a lot tougher on a bullet than a bolt rifle with one large feed ramp.

A gasser has so much force upon chambering, it generally pushes right past this sticking point, but you'll notice gouges in the bullet from where it hung up on the ramp if you unchamber the cartridge, and this sticking probably increases the chances of bullet setback as well.

What I now do on all my 223 AR ramps is break the sharp edge on the lug cuts where the bullet is hanging up.

The simplest method I've found is to put the barrel in a paddled vice, wrap a small piece of 400 grit wet-dry sandpaper around the tip of the bullet in the cartridge and -gently- push the bullet through the ramp in its normal feeding orientation, straight into the lug cutouts, -only- making contact at the sticking point, not the ramp itself. I check frequently with the bare bullet to see how much the sticking has been reduced.

Once the bullet is moving through with little or no sticking, I finish with 1,000 grit. I'm not aggressive with it and it takes very little removal. You're really -just- breaking the sharp edges on the barrel extension ramps, where the bolt lugs pass, that are cutting into the bullet.

I've done this on my 223 straight-pulls and gassers and have never made feeding worse, only smoother and better. Sticking hasn't been an issue on 30 caliber bullets as they're wide enough not to enter into the bolt lug cuts. I don't know how 6, 6.5 and 6.8 bullets move through the same, but probably easier as they get larger in diameter.

 

[StupidLightweight]

And this is why you’re the godfather of ultralight ARs

 

[Taudisio]

Regarding feeding, rather than extraction, something I've not mentioned before, but is applicable to ARs in general and especially so for the Solo:

One thing I've noticed, and it becomes even more apparent with these manually-operated actions, is that a lot of 223 bullets tend to stick in AR barrel extension feed ramp lug cuts. Not all bullets and not all extensions, but most in my experience.

The "pointier" and smaller diameter the bullet, the more it tends to jam into the bolt lug cuts, and stick a little (75ELDM, for example can lodge pretty tightly). AR dual feed ramps can be a lot tougher on a bullet than a bolt rifle with one large feed ramp.

A gasser has so much force upon chambering, it generally pushes right past this sticking point, but you'll notice gouges in the bullet from where it hung up on the ramp if you unchamber the cartridge, and this sticking probably increases the chances of bullet setback as well.

What I now do on all my 223 AR ramps is break the sharp edge on the lug cuts where the bullet is hanging up.

The simplest method I've found is to put the barrel in a paddled vice, wrap a small piece of 400 grit wet-dry sandpaper around the tip of the bullet in the cartridge and -gently- push the bullet through the ramp in its normal feeding orientation, straight into the lug cutouts, -only- making contact at the sticking point, not the ramp itself. I check frequently with the bare bullet to see how much the sticking has been reduced.

Once the bullet is moving through with little or no sticking, I finish with 1,000 grit. I'm not aggressive with it and it takes very little removal. You're really -just- breaking the sharp edges on the barrel extension ramps, where the bolt lugs pass, that are cutting into the bullet.

I've done this on my 223 straight-pulls and gassers and have never made feeding worse, only smoother and better. Sticking hasn't been an issue on 30 caliber bullets as they're wide enough not to enter into the bolt lug cuts. I don't how 6, 6.5 and 6.8 bullets move through the same, but probably easier as they get larger in diameter.

I only had an issue with the 6x45 with a full magazine, before I took a coil off the magazine spring. Nothing since then. Smoothing out the burrs on the ramp (if there are any) is a great idea.

Going out tomorrow to (hopefully ) check my final loads with the 6x45 at 300 yards on paper then verify out to 600 on steel.

I got the G&A magazine Friday. Of course they put @Thegman article in the back.

 

[Thegman]

I only had an issue with the 6x45 with a full magazine, before I took a coil off the magazine spring. Nothing since then. Smoothing out the burrs on the ramp (if there are any) is a great idea.

Going out tomorrow to (hopefully ) check my final loads with the 6x45 at 300 yards on paper then verify out to 600 on steel.

I got the G&A magazine Friday. Of course they put @Thegman article in the back.

Yes, it's at its worst with a full mag where there's a lot more force holding the rear of the cartridge up, forcing the bullet tip straight into the lug cuts.

After I think I have both lugs letting the bullet pass freely enough, I clean everything to be sure there's no grit hanging around and install the barrel and test positions 1 and 2 with a magazine, which are the easiest positions for the bullet to pass. If those spots stick at all or are still gouging the bullet (they usually don't by the time the bullet is passing freely) I work on it a little more. If 1 and 2 are good I test positions 9 and 10 to see if it works at those spots. There's usually still some minor gouging in those positions, but not enough to hang up feeding. When checking the bullet gouging you have to hold the cartridge parallel to the chamber while extracting it or you'll see gouges from the ejector forcing the bullet against the 3 o'clock lug cut.

I don't think it's burrs so much as just nice sharp edges from the normal machining process. I'm basically just chamfering that knife edge where it's contacting the bullet so it's not as good at cutting into the bullet, hanging it up. After this process, feeding is -a lot- smoother. I'd never thought about cutting a mag spring as a work-around, but that probably helps too.

Let us know how the 6x45 does today. I'm really interested to hear how it does at 300 and further. I need to do some testing like that too, but everything is on call and set up for bears right now so don't want to mess with it.

 

[Taudisio]

Yes, it's at its worst with a full mag where there's a lot more force holding the rear of the cartridge up, forcing the bullet tip straight into the lug cuts.

After I think I have both lugs letting the bullet pass freely enough, I clean everything to be sure there's no grit hanging around and install the barrel and test position 1 and 2 with a magazine, which are the easiest positions for the bullet to pass. If those spots stick at all or are still gouging the bullet (they usually don't by the time the bullet is passing freely) I work on it a little more. If 1 and 2 are good I test position 9 and 10 to see if works at those spots. There's usually still some minor gouging in those spots, but not enough to hang up feeding. When checking the bullet gouging you have to hold the cartridge parallel to the chamber while extracting it or you'll see gouges from the ejector forcing the bullet against the 3 o'clock lug cut.

I don't think it's burrs so much as just nice sharp edges from the normal machining process. I'm basically just chamfering that knife edge where it's contacting the bullet so it's not as good at cutting into the bullet, hanging it up. After this process, feeding is a lot smoother. I'd never thought about cutting a mag spring as a work-around, but that probably helps too.

Let us know how the 6x45 does today. I'm really interested to hear how it does at 300 and further. I need to do some testing like that too, but everything is on call and set up for bears right now so don't want to mess with it.

Makes total sense. I’m heading out the door now! I’ll post in a few hours. I did some water jug testing with the two bullets I’m interested in using, I can pm those results as it is a bit off topic.

 

[David Walter]

There is a reason people in the shooting for effect business (mil, etc.) load capacity-2 rounds in magazines.

A 30 round mag with 30 rounds is a jamfest. A 28 is standard.

I load 8 in 10 round mags just to avoid the spring pressure problems associated with full mags.