Ultralight Ultralight Rifles

[Thegman]

Well, glad to hear it was just loose pockets. That's an easy fix. Not that it's FP related in your case, but after those 350L loads were piercing primers, I started checking those specs when I set up a bolt. Turns out it was probably Hornady's primers in that case, I've since read they were making some of their own.primers, I guess.

Yeah, faster, or "quick" is a good description. The 300 HAM’R is the only rifle I can remember that was slipping its scope it was recoiling so fast. Had to use liquid electrical tape on the rings to stop the slipping. It's been fine since that though.

I also add a piece of flip-flop type foam for a recoil pad if needed; that helps a lot.

 

[Taudisio]

Well, glad to hear it was just loose pockets. That's an easy fix. Not that it's FP related in your case, but after those 350L loads were piercing primers, I started checking those specs when I set up a bolt. Turns out it was probably Hornady's primers in that case, I've since read they were making some of their own.primers, I guess.

Yeah, faster, or "quick" is a good description. The 300 HAM’R is the only rifle I can remember that was slipping its scope it was recoiling so fast. Had to use liquid electrical tape on the rings to stop the slipping. It's been fine since that though.

I also add a piece of flip-flop type foam for a recoil pad if needed; that helps a lot.

Did you build an UL in 350L? I remember it mentioned a few times early in the thread, but don’t recall if someone had done one. When I was piercing primers with the ARC, I measured the pin because it was a 6.5 Grendel bolt and they have a 1 and 2 version and one of them requires a shorter pin. That’s when I determined the Fiocchi primers were soft.

I have had scopes slide in a lot of springer air rifles. Liquid tape is a great idea. A flip flop pad isn’t a bad idea for high round count days, I’ll probably just be lazy and not do anything about it though.

 

[Thegman]

My first attempt at a straight-pull was with the 350L, but it didn’t end up being ultralight. That was before the Solo was an option. I used a YHM steel side-charging carrier and CMT side charging upper with a spring and a stripped buffer. It shot really well, and worked really well, but it weighed about 4.5#.

I did take a couple of bears with it, and it worked fine, but not much advantage weight wise over my Montana and definitely not range wise so I mothballed that particular idea.

I did test the 350L barrel on a Solo to check extraction and it worked fine. That did have a little kick. Reminded me of a little 20 gauge.

The recoil pad is nice on the HAM’R, but not as necessary on the 223, if at all. But it's easy enough to move the CAR stock with the pad to whatever rifle I'm shooting, if I'm using a collapsible stock setup.

 

[Taudisio]

Just a small update, after carrying the rifle for MILES today, 2pm-830pm, I am absolutely sold. I was helping buddies to try and find some bears, and I have a cougar tag, this afternoon. What an absolute treasure it is to carry around. With the 16” barrel I carry it by the hand grip like a glock. Doesn’t touch the ground, pointed in a safe direction. We were laughing about the fact it almost weighs the same as one of their scopes. We shot rocks at 300 yards and I was smoking 4-6 inchers. The 80gr chrono-ed at 2690fps. Feel more than confident for deer/lion/bear.

 

[180ls1]

Thought you guys might enjoy this... 10g scalpel knife. I'll probably run it on deer, not sure about elk.

10g Knife by Renegade Outdoor

Ships in 1-2 business days | Based in Meridian, ID | Est. 2021 About as light as it gets The 10g is the result of an experiment to create the lightest, sharpest knife possible, while incorporating a blade and grip large enough to be useful for a variety of tasks. The 10g Knife is an...

www.garagegrowngear.com

 

[Thegman]

Thought you guys might enjoy this... 10g scalpel knife. I'll probably run it on deer, not sure about elk.

10g Knife by Renegade Outdoor

Ships in 1-2 business days | Based in Meridian, ID | Est. 2021 About as light as it gets The 10g is the result of an experiment to create the lightest, sharpest knife possible, while incorporating a blade and grip large enough to be useful for a variety of tasks. The 10g Knife is an...

www.garagegrowngear.com

When I was in Africa, they cut up everything, from warthogs to giraffe with 3" Victorinox paring knives. After I came back, I started trying the same thing with various paring knives I had. They actually work really well, especially the 4" Victorinox. Not as lightweight or sharp as this option, but still pretty good on both fronts. I bet this will work pretty well.

 

[180ls1]

When I was in Africa, they cut up everything, from warthogs to giraffe with 3" Victorinox paring knives. After I came back, I started trying the same thing with various paring knives I had. They actually work really well, especially the 4" Victorinox. Not as lightweight or sharp as this option, but still pretty good on both fronts. I bet this will work pretty well.

Thing you could get through a deer with 1 blade? The only thing I don't like is you need a screwdriver to replace the blades...

However, the last buck I killed 1 blade was plenty for a full debone with my OutdoorEdge lite. That blade is longer and more stout.

 

[Taudisio]

Thing you could get through a deer with 1 blade? The only thing I don't like is you need a screwdriver to replace the blades...

However, the last buck I killed 1 blade was plenty for a full debone with my OutdoorEdge lite. That blade is longer and more stout.

I’ve used scalpels in the past, but like you I use the outdoor edge now. For the life of me, I can’t remember how many blades I would go through for quartering a deer. I’ve quartered a deer with my EDC, a kershaw leek. One blade from the outdoor edge will get a buck into quarter bags unless it’s real fatty. I used two blades on a single buck that had what seemed like a 4” layer of fat on his rump last year. I’d guess two or three blades to be safe from a scalpel, I’ll throw my old one in my pack this year and try it again. Last time I used it, I had an accident that required a buddy to finish and a few bandaids for my knuckle.

 

[Thegman]

I’ve used scalpels in the past, but like you I use the outdoor edge now. For the life of me, I can’t remember how many blades I would go through for quartering a deer. I’ve quartered a deer with my EDC, a kershaw leek. One blade from the outdoor edge will get a buck into quarter bags unless it’s real fatty. I used two blades on a single buck that had what seemed like a 4” layer of fat on his rump last year. I’d guess two or three blades to be safe from a scalpel, I’ll throw my old one in my pack this year and try it again. Last time I used it, I had an accident that required a buddy to finish and a few bandaids for my knuckle.

I would defer to Taudisio on this one. I've never used any replaceable blade knives. A buddy does really well with his Havalon, but I really don't know his blade/deer ratio.

 

[StupidLightweight]

I used a Havalon for about a decade on dozens of animals. Usually, I got by with a single blade per animal, but I'd use my pocket knife for popping knee joints to minimize dulling the scalpel. The main issue I have with replaceable blade knives is disposing of them in the field, so like Thegman, I too have gone to Victorinox paring knives. They're cheap, ultralight, and easy to touch up with a small stone in the field.

 

[David Walter]

didn’t read the whole 45 pages but the first 3 pages are interesting. Seems like the 300 HAMR is made for this application.

Have you tried the Kali Key?

https://kalikey.com/

That and a JP low mass bcg could shave a few oz, I’d think.

I have a 300 HAMR rifle I may try this on.

Interested in the side charging bolts as well, but I have a Kali Key and JP low mass in the parts kit.

Do you need the spring to keep pressure on the bolt? Or does it lock when forward and unlock when you pull it back without the spring to assist.

If yes spring, what do you replace the buffer weight with? Or, is the spring just in contact with the bcg?

Also, I see a bunch of fixed scopes with duplex reticles (at least in the first 8 pages). Did anyone solve the light scope with hash marks / reference lines problem?

Like under 10 OZ scope?

 

[wowzers]

I used a Havalon for about a decade on dozens of animals. Usually, I got by with a single blade per animal, but I'd use my pocket knife for popping knee joints to minimize dulling the scalpel. The main issue I have with replaceable blade knives is disposing of them in the field, so like Thegman, I too have gone to Victorinox paring knives. They're cheap, ultralight, and easy to touch up with a small stone in the field.

When I’ve had to replace I just put the old one back into the foil pack the new one came out of and put it back into the little pouch and disposed of into a water bottle or beer can back at camp. Not sure I’ll ever not get a little nervous changing those things though.

 

[Taudisio]

didn’t read the whole 45 pages but the first 3 pages are interesting. Seems like the 300 HAMR is made for this application.

Have you tried the Kali Key?

https://kalikey.com/

That and a JP low mass bcg could shave a few oz, I’d think.

I have a 300 HAMR rifle I may try this on.

Interested in the side charging bolts as well, but I have a Kali Key and JP low mass in the parts kit.

Do you need the spring to keep pressure on the bolt? Or does it lock when forward and unlock when you pull it back without the spring to assist.

If yes spring, what do you replace the buffer weight with? Or, is the spring just in contact with the bcg?

Also, I see a bunch of fixed scopes with duplex reticles (at least in the first 8 pages). Did anyone solve the light scope with hash marks / reference lines problem?

Like under 10 OZ scope?

Personally, no on the kali key.

The buffer tube is empty, no spring, no buffer
The bcg is cut in half behind the firing pin.

The Solo300 upper is most common that I’ve seen. Some have modified their own bcg for side charging. Or just use a heavier option.

The rotating bolt should hold it closed, the solo gives a little more holding power with a ball detent.

I have a primary arms microprism 5x. It has hash marks and is the lightest “scope” I have seen. 8.5oz

 

[PistolPete]

Fine, I ordered a 3x micro prism from Primary Arms - yall talked me into it! This model is on sale and gets you $60 store credit after purchase:

Primary Arms SLx 3X MicroPrism™ Scope - Green Illuminated ACSS Raptor Reticle - 5.56 / .308 - Yard

This Primary Arms MicroPrism is part of the SLx optics line.

www.primaryarms.com

Now I'll have to map out the subtensions, since they don't publish them...

 

[FullyTorqued]

Fine, I ordered a 3x micro prism from Primary Arms - yall talked me into it! This model is on sale and gets you $60 store credit after purchase:

Primary Arms SLx 3X MicroPrism™ Scope - Green Illuminated ACSS Raptor Reticle - 5.56 / .308 - Yard

This Primary Arms MicroPrism is part of the SLx optics line.

www.primaryarms.com

Now I'll have to map out the subtensions, since they don't publish them...

I have one and like it alright for what it is. I’ll be interested to see the mapped out reticle. Scopeguard Alaska was able to make me a cover that fit well for it.
What I really want is something like the SFWA 2.5-10 x 32 Ultralight with a mil dot reticle and a low profile zero stop mil turret. Wish a company would make something like that. I tried the PA 5x microprism with the mil reticle but the eye relief and FOV was limited.

 

[Taudisio]

Fine, I ordered a 3x micro prism from Primary Arms - yall talked me into it! This model is on sale and gets you $60 store credit after purchase:

Primary Arms SLx 3X MicroPrism™ Scope - Green Illuminated ACSS Raptor Reticle - 5.56 / .308 - Yard

This Primary Arms MicroPrism is part of the SLx optics line.

www.primaryarms.com

Now I'll have to map out the subtensions, since they don't publish them...

https://www.primaryarms.com/core/media/media.nl?id=15071980&c=3901023&h=TmkdDww47CoWvpmM1O0r8_kmHyOu599e9RAyHtzYTWKo_8QT

 

[PistolPete]

https://www.primaryarms.com/core/media/media.nl?id=15071980&c=3901023&h=TmkdDww47CoWvpmM1O0r8_kmHyOu599e9RAyHtzYTWKo_8QT

Thanks, yeah I'd seen that, but I've never seen the actual subtensions in MOA or Mil. I'll probably mount it on a 22 and shoot 30 shot groups with each aiming point at 100 yds to get a better calculation...

 

[4090Sharps]

When I’ve had to replace I just put the old one back into the foil pack the new one came out of and put it back into the little pouch and disposed of into a water bottle or beer can back at camp. Not sure I’ll ever not get a little nervous changing those things though.

I don't want to get too off track, but it's worth carrying one of these to remove and keep a worn blade safe in your pack until you can dispose of it in the trash. It's extremely handy.

https://www.sportsmans.com/camping-gear-supplies/knives-tools/replacement-blades-accessories/havalon-piranta-blade-remover-4-pack/p/1436662

 

[Te Hopo]

Here's the ultralight option I chose as I've never been a fan of scalpel knives.
So I bought a sheet of kydex and with a little judicious use of a heat gun I was able to make a functional sheath that the knife clips into.
Been using it a year or so now.

 

[Thegman]

Here's the ultralight option I chose as I've never been a fan of scalpel knives.
So I bought a sheet of kydex and with a little judicious use of a heat gun I was able to make a functional sheath that the knife clips into.
Been using it a year or so now.View attachment 711793View attachment 711794

I've been using the same knife. Works really well, but I could probably use a better sheath like yours!

The one thing I don't like about most paring knives I have is that the handles are too small for me. Fine I guess for detail work like they're designed for, but not as good for heavier work. The 4" Victorinox has the largest handle and has easily been the best so far.

I just bought the second one down, the Dexter Duoglide. By far the best handle for me on a paring knife. Slightly heavier than the Victorinox, and haven't had a chance to use it for field dressing yet, but I think it will work well.

(So much for staying on the thread topic...)