Ultralight Ultralight Rifles

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Thegman

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Accuracy with and without the hole leaking seems to be the same, but it does appear to lower the velocity about 50fps.
I'd be interested to see how the velocity compares with a reversed gas block relative to the sleeve. I'm not sure how much mine leak, I just notice carbon buildup underneath when I remove them, if the port doesn't plug itself.
 
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The Solo300 charging handle (steel) is 17.5grams. Has anyone found a suitable Titanium or aluminum lightweight replacement?
 

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The solo300 has a large cutout on the left side of the upper, leaving the trigger assembly exposed to the elements when the bolt is forward. I made a temporary soft"dust cover" flap for mine to keep snow/rain/dust from getting in as easily... it just pushes out of the way when i operate the bolt. Has anyone else tackled this issue more effectively?
 

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The solo300 bolt has a spring tensioned ball bearing that adds tension, and I assume helps keep the bcg from rattling around. However, it pushes the bcg into the opposite side creating more friction. What is the best lubricant to use, for those of you running a solo300 setup?
 

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Taudisio

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The solo300 has a large cutout on the left side of the upper, leaving the trigger assembly exposed to the elements when the bolt is forward. I made a temporary soft"dust cover" flap for mine to keep snow/rain/dust from getting in as easily... it just pushes out of the way when i operate the bolt. Has anyone else tackled this issue more effectively?
I hadn’t thought about this. I have a fluted bolt on my big rifle, and it has caused dirt to get in, but no issues yet. Nice solution though!
 
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Another Straightpull 6mmARC question: I'm sorry as I know this has been discussed a bit before. I understand that for those who have tried (@StupidLightweight) that extraction with the 6mmARC is a challenge with these non-gas side charging handle modifications.

Can anyone clarify for me; what is it that is causing the extraction issues with the Grendel based cases? Is it the extra recoil forcing the case head against the bolt and the lugs getting more jammed in there than with 223 based cases? Or is it something else? For example, would a 22ARC or 22Grendel have the same issue considering it likely has a recoil level closer to that of the 223wylde than the heavier bullets in the 6ARC?

Also, with the extraction issue, would a longer charging handle help mitigate the issue, to give more leverage and grip to hold onto to be able to reliably pull the bolt out of battery? Is anyone aware of a longer charging handle option that would go into 10-32 threads? Perhaps one that folds forward?

I understand that a lightweight gasser would be the "easy button" answer to this question... however I run my rifles exclusively with suppressors, and find the noise of the gas cycle to be a non-starter... thus the need for a lightweight bolt action AR.
 

Taudisio

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The solo300 bolt has a spring tensioned ball bearing that adds tension, and I assume helps keep the bcg from rattling around. However, it pushes the bcg into the opposite side creating more friction. What is the best lubricant to use, for those of you running a solo300 setup?
I was thinking about this last night as well. I think I’m going to try some gun grease on the ball, and throughout the charging handle “track”. I’ll use my usual cleaner/lube for the rest of the bolt
 

PistolPete

Lil-Rokslider
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I was unsatisfied with the action on my Solo 300 (couldn't reload smoothly while staying on the gun). Anyone have experience using an adjustable gas block turned way down, with the goal of getting an aluminum BCG and unweighted buffer to cycle reliably? Very little extra weight added vs straight pull if you can make it run, and instant reloads is always nice.
 
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I was thinking about this last night as well. I think I’m going to try some gun grease on the ball, and throughout the charging handle “track”. I’ll use my usual cleaner/lube for the rest of the bolt
What kind of gun Grease are you referring to?

It seems like when I tried CLP to lube the contact points it didn't help much.
 

Taudisio

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Another Straightpull 6mmARC question: I'm sorry as I know this has been discussed a bit before. I understand that for those who have tried (@StupidLightweight) that extraction with the 6mmARC is a challenge with these non-gas side charging handle modifications.

Can anyone clarify for me; what is it that is causing the extraction issues with the Grendel based cases? Is it the extra recoil forcing the case head against the bolt and the lugs getting more jammed in there than with 223 based cases? Or is it something else? For example, would a 22ARC or 22Grendel have the same issue considering it likely has a recoil level closer to that of the 223wylde than the heavier bullets in the 6ARC?

Also, with the extraction issue, would a longer charging handle help mitigate the issue, to give more leverage and grip to hold onto to be able to reliably pull the bolt out of battery? Is anyone aware of a longer charging handle option that would go into 10-32 threads? Perhaps one that folds forward?

I understand that a lightweight gasser would be the "easy button" answer to this question... however I run my rifles exclusively with suppressors, and find the noise of the gas cycle to be a non-starter... thus the need for a lightweight bolt action AR.
My guess is the friction from the brass in the neck/shoulder area, along with the larger body circumference putting more tension between brass and chamber making extraction difficult. Side note, I would like to do a second one in a 6x45. I ran into a fan of the cartridge at the range who said he was getting 85gr Sierra gamekings at 2850fps. I did not ask his barrel length, but I know it was from a gasser. He said it was a hammer on deer/pigs. Owning a 6arc gasser myself, that is right up there with my load data for my 18” barrel
 

Taudisio

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I was unsatisfied with the action on my Solo 300 (couldn't reload smoothly while staying on the gun). Anyone have experience using an adjustable gas block turned way down, with the goal of getting an aluminum BCG and unweighted buffer to cycle reliably? Very little extra weight added vs straight pull if you can make it run, and instant reloads is always nice.
Are you selling the solo? If so, send me a pm
 
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Thegman

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I was unsatisfied with the action on my Solo 300 (couldn't reload smoothly while staying on the gun). Anyone have experience using an adjustable gas block turned way down, with the goal of getting an aluminum BCG and unweighted buffer to cycle reliably? Very little extra weight added vs straight pull if you can make it run, and instant reloads is always nice.

What was the issue with running it? Were your cases sticking? Mine run as easily as a typical bolt rifle, but faster. Fishdart also posted a while back about sticking cases. Wonder why some do and some don't...?

I've only seen any sticking with the 30 HRT...
I'm not sure why bigger cases tend to be stickier.

My guess is more friction from more surface area of the case, and increased thrust expanding the case more tightly into the chamber and binding the bolt, but not sure, and I only have experience with that one larger case.

I have run my lightweight gasser like you describe and that works fine. The disadvantage is that I have to run it from the charging handle, which isn't too ergonomic. (Actually, I guess you mean running it semiauto - that works too - takes very little gas to run, but runs fine)
 
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What was the issue with running it? Were your cases sticking? Mine run as easily as a typical bolt rifle, but faster. Fishdart also posted a while back about sticking cases. Wonder why some do and some don't...?

I've only seen any sticking with the 30 HRT...
I'm not sure why bigger cases tend to be stickier.

My guess is more friction from more surface area of the case, and increased thrust expanding the case more tightly into the chamber and binding the bolt, but not sure, and I only have experience with that one larger case.

I have run my lightweight gasser like you describe and that works fine. The disadvantage is that I have to run it from the charging handle, which isn't too ergonomic.
I'll answer the question from my own perspective. Not the cases sticking, it's the BCG wanting to bind, and the extra friction from the spring tensioned ball bearing. Often takes quite a bit of effort to get the bolt to engage the last 1/4 inch as it rotates into battery.
 
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Thegman

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The solo300 bolt has a spring tensioned ball bearing that adds tension, and I assume helps keep the bcg from rattling around. However, it pushes the bcg into the opposite side creating more friction. What is the best lubricant to use, for those of you running a solo300 setup?

I posted a pic of my carrier earlier. You can see it's liberally coated with grease which is how I run it, maybe with a couple drops of clp to thin it a little. I'm just using thin red grease intended for lubing a chainsaw bar. Any thin grease would probably work fine.
 
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Thegman

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I'll answer the question from my own perspective. Not the cases sticking, it's the BCG wanting to bind, and the extra friction from the spring tensioned ball bearing. Often takes quite a bit of effort to get the bolt to engage the last 1/4 inch as it rotates into battery.

Thinking out loud: I'm wondering if it's your extractor having a hard time getting over your case rim...? Obviously ARs hit that pretty hard loading in their normal configuration. Solo usually removes the o-ring and rubber plunger under the extractor to reduce tension on loading. If you’re using their bolt that should have been done already though.
 

Taudisio

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I'll answer the question from my own perspective. Not the cases sticking, it's the BCG wanting to bind, and the extra friction from the spring tensioned ball bearing. Often takes quite a bit of effort to get the bolt to engage the last 1/4 inch as it rotates into battery.
Also thinking out loud, maybe a light coating of grease on the rear of the locking lugs after a deep cleaning? I would check the cam pin for extra wear. When you have the bolt out, can you see some wear inside the charging handle track?
 
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I think Thegman is right about the increased surface area of the 6mm ARC case. He's also correct about the extractor tension causing issues when chambering. When I removed the O-ring from my 5.56 bolt, it helped a lot. I expect that was part of the issue with my 6mm ARC barrel too.

All that said, the 6mm ARC is still viable in a straight-pull if it's the cartridge you want. It likely won't be as easy to cycle as a 5.56-based case, but so what?
 
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Thegman

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The solo300 has a large cutout on the left side of the upper, leaving the trigger assembly exposed to the elements when the bolt is forward. I made a temporary soft"dust cover" flap for mine to keep snow/rain/dust from getting in as easily... it just pushes out of the way when i operate the bolt. Has anyone else tackled this issue more effectively?

That's a good idea; thanks for sharing that.

I usually have that side against my body while carrying the rifle and it has been a much smaller issue than I thought it might be at first, but I've thought about something like that as well.

Mine have never gotten very dirty, wet, etc. , even hunting and busting through some -really- nasty brush on Kodiak, but a twig that found its way under the trigger would be a bad thing.
 
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