Ultralight Ultralight Rifles

[Thegman]

I’m wondering about NFA polymer lower parts kit durability. I’ve had some light primer strikes and misfires and I just noticed today that the hammer has some deforming from hitting the firing pin. This might not be the only issue with this one though.
Of the four Solo uppers I have been exposed to, this one doesn’t like to stay in battery as well. The detent bearing gets stuck periodically and won’t engage (bolt has to be taken out and bearing popped back into its socket).
A good portion of the misfires were likely due to being barely out of battery.
All that said, I really like this setup and this is after 500+ rounds.

View attachment 906615

None of my NFA hammers have dented like that (a very small amount, but not like that). Sure does look like it could contribute to your light strikes. As far as your "detent key" failing to lock up, it might be worth sending it back to be checked/repaired/replaced.

 

[Thegman]

View attachment 906680
Over here in my world, I have a complete rifle waiting for the Shaw portless except an optic, and a lower ready for an UL gassed 22ARC!
Farrowtech changed their stock pad. It does not have any hexagon holes, and it’s thicker. The screw they sent with it does not go all the way through the polymer. I’m guessing it is heavier as well but we are in the process of moving and I haven’t weighed it. View attachment 906682View attachment 906683

That looks like the original one that I bought, before he lightened them (after I mentioned that they weren't as light as stated on the website ) . Maybe old stock?

 

[Taudisio]

That looks like the original one that I bought, before he lightened them (after I mentioned that they weren't as light as stated on the website ) . Maybe old stock?

Yea, I don’t know what happened with this one, but they have been great to communicate with and have already provided remedies for me. I kind of like it, I’ll have to toss it on the scale when I get home. I’m really excited for the trigger tech too.

 

[BasicUtahrd95]

Are there any videos, articles, or other resources you guys would recommend I review before assembling my first ULUL style AR? I am a total AR newbie, and finally got all the parts together for my first iteration. It seems fairly straightforward, but I don't know what I don't know. For reference, I went with the Shaw portless barrel, solo 300 upper, and TN Arms stripped carbon lower as the main pieces. Any tips or tricks I should know beforehand?

 

[Thegman]

Are there any videos, articles, or other resources you guys would recommend I review before assembling my first ULUL style AR? I am a total AR newbie, and finally got all the parts together for my first iteration. It seems fairly straightforward, but I don't know what I don't know. For reference, I went with the Shaw portless barrel, solo 300 upper, and TN Arms stripped carbon lower as the main pieces. Any tips or tricks I should know beforehand?

If you've never messed with an AR, the most difficult part will be putting all the small parts in the lower. I would look for a good tutorial on Rumble or YouTube. You can leave the bolt catch and buffer retainer parts off for an UL-UL so it's easier than putting together a gasser.

As far as barrel install, just be sure you have an action block or reaction rod to secure the upper and/or barrel extension while torquing the barrel nut. The best is probably the reaction rods with a shoulder that slides in upper's gas key track. Those keep the barrel extension and upper both locked in place while you're torquing the barrel nut.

 

[BasicUtahrd95]

If you've never messed with an AR, the most difficult part will be putting all the small parts in the lower. I would look for a good tutorial on Rumble or YouTube. You can leave the bolt catch and buffer retainer parts off for an UL-UL so it's easier than putting together a gasser.

As far as barrel install, just be sure you have an action block or reaction rod to secure the upper and/or barrel extension while torquing the barrel nut. The best is probably the reaction rods with a shoulder that slides in upper's gas key track. Those keep the barrel extension and upper both locked in place while you're torquing the barrel nut.

Thanks!

 

[JBradley500]

I believe Chad from iraqveteran8888 did a good video or 2 on that but YouTube took them down so you find them on rumble now. That's what I used for my first build.

 

[Dukhtr3]

If you've never messed with an AR, the most difficult part will be putting all the small parts in the lower. I would look for a good tutorial on Rumble or YouTube. You can leave the bolt catch and buffer retainer parts off for an UL-UL so it's easier than putting together a gasser.

As far as barrel install, just be sure you have an action block or reaction rod to secure the upper and/or barrel extension while torquing the barrel nut. The best is probably the reaction rods with a shoulder that slides in upper's gas key track. Those keep the barrel extension and upper both locked in place while you're torquing the barrel nut.

X2 on the reaction rod. Don't waste your time with a cheap action block like I did.

Sent from my Pixel 7 Pro using Tapatalk

 

[BasicUtahrd95]

I believe Chad from iraqveteran8888 did a good video or 2 on that but YouTube took them down so you find them on rumble now. That's what I used for my first build.

Thanks for the recommendation! I’ll make sure to look him up.

 

[BasicUtahrd95]

X2 on the reaction rod. Don't waste your time with a cheap action block like I did.

Sent from my Pixel 7 Pro using Tapatalk

Good to know!

 

[Hunt_Jefferson]

I’ve read all 188 pages and convinced I want to build one of these for the fun of it. Stopped by my local gun shop and they have an old ATI Omni complete lower & matched upper in the case for $200.

Should I run from ATI & order a Tennessee Arms lower instead?

 

[Jmyers12]

Those are sweet

 

[Thegman]

I’ve read all 188 pages and convinced I want to build one of these for the fun of it. Stopped by my local gun shop and they have an old ATI Omni complete lower & matched upper in the case for $200.

Should I run from ATI & order a Tennessee Arms lower instead?

If it's a good deal, I'd use the ATI set for a lightweight gasser, and just drop the Solo upper on a TN Arms.

 

[Hunt_Jefferson]

If it's a good deal, I'd use the ATI set for a lightweight gasser, and just drop the Solo upper on a TN Arms.

Tough to find actual weight on the stripped ATI set. Looks like the lower might be 8oz and the upper is 7oz. If that’s the case it would be better off to go with the TN Arms lower at 5.4 oz (edit: 3.9oz!) and a slickside aluminum upper at 6-7oz (or the solo).

 

[JBradley500]

My TN arms CF lowers are 3.9 oz without any hardware.

 

[Thegman]

Yes, the TN Arms CF poly lower is lighter than their regular Nylon 6 lower. Pretty tough to beat their CF lower for weight/durability/price.