Ultralight Tikka .300WM Build: Seeking advice on folding stocks/cheek weld.

[K9kodi]

Google claims it’s a “superior textured grip” stock

 

[Wiscat]

Dude... The 300 win mag hate is crazy on here....

I can't offer a ton of specifics but my primary hunting rig has been a 300 Win Mag tikka since 2012. But i will give you some random info. I love it. Never had an issue with recoil on it. It shoots extremely well to distance. A few changes that its went though:

-Barrel was cut(21.5") and threaded. Velocity went from 3100 to 2965.
- I run a HarvesterEVO/Omega 300, break, or thread protector. I keep zeroing notes for all 3.
- Shoot 180gr Accubonds for everything. Loaded with RL 22.(Until it runs out)
-The barrel is at 1500rds approx and should be going but its still grouping.(Its next one will be a 300 wm too)
-I've run the factory stock, a B&C, and it now sits in a Mcmillian Game scout.
-Optics I've used on this: Vortex 4-16HSLR(like everyone back then), Leupold VX5 3-15-44, and now a NX82.5-20.
-Factory stock and B&C I used Talley lows with the first 2 optics. Originally I had a Mountain tactical rail and Nightforce UL meds on the NX8. I've since went back to Talley Med with the level.

So much to say it's been a great rifle and a faithful companion from local deer seasons to Alaska and all over the West. So if you like the round and you can shoot it have fun. I promise it will kill things very dead very quickly.

I would caution 2 things:

1. Shoot the gun and figure it out before you buy a bunch of shit. Mine ran pretty stock for a while.
2. I have a 260 with the same stock and optic. It gets way more rds on it than the 300. But the mechanics are the same.

 

[DCWrinkler]

Dude... The 300 win mag hate is crazy on here....

I can't offer a ton of specifics but my primary hunting rig has been a 300 Win Mag tikka since 2012. But i will give you some random info. I love it. Never had an issue with recoil on it. It shoots extremely well to distance. A few changes that its went though:

-Barrel was cut(21.5") and threaded. Velocity went from 3100 to 2965.
- I run a HarvesterEVO/Omega 300, break, or thread protector. I keep zeroing notes for all 3.
- Shoot 180gr Accubonds for everything. Loaded with RL 22.(Until it runs out)
-The barrel is at 1500rds approx and should be going but its still grouping.(Its next one will be a 300 wm too)
-I've run the factory stock, a B&C, and it now sits in a Mcmillian Game scout.
-Optics I've used on this: Vortex 4-16HSLR(like everyone back then), Leupold VX5 3-15-44, and now a NX82.5-20.
-Factory stock and B&C I used Talley lows with the first 2 optics. Originally I had a Mountain tactical rail and Nightforce UL meds on the NX8. I've since went back to Talley Med with the level.

So much to say it's been a great rifle and a faithful companion from local deer seasons to Alaska and all over the West. So if you like the round and you can shoot it have fun. I promise it will kill things very dead very quickly.

I would caution 2 things:

1. Shoot the gun and figure it out before you buy a bunch of shit. Mine ran pretty stock for a while.
2. I have a 260 with the same stock and optic. It gets way more rds on it than the 300. But the mechanics are the same.View attachment 1035072

Thanks man, great info and nice rifle.

 

[K9kodi]

300 is my go to

 

[Thehillbillee]

Great thread. I find myself in a similar situation. Just bought a tikka 300 win mag last fall, and I’m looking to make some additions/upgrades over the next couple years as money allows. Out of the box though it’s already a great start—w/ scope mines still sub 8lb, plenty accurate for the hunting I do, and it handles the recoil much better than my old 10 lb walnut-stocked 300.

I’ve been dreaming of adding an unknown or airlock suppressor for my first upgrade and plan to swap stocks after that.

 

[Mountain_Life]

Im going to go ahead and say what everyone is beating around the bush here....Im not trying to hurt your feelings or shit on your build....but....

I think this is a mistake. That gun is going to recoil so bad, you will never see what you shoot at once you pull the trigger. Ive spent a lot of time behind a 300 WM Tikka with a brake in a factory stock. The only way I know what I am hitting is the sound of the steel ringing in my headphones.

Even a braked Tikka 300WM put me in physical pain the next day after about 50 rounds the day before, i shoot about 100x more than the average guy and dont ever have a sore shoulder. I absolutely hated shooting that gun.

You have a magnum bolt face Tikka that has an intended use of a backcountry rifle. You have mentioned a HNT 26 and a suppressor and a carbon barrel. Here is the move, save a ton of money and order a 16 to 18" prefit Stainless steel Tikka Barrel chambered in 6.5 PRC. Drop it in a HNT26 or some other folding or collapsible chassis, put a quality suppressor on the end. Now you have a shoot able, short, compact, backcountry rifle.

@DCWrinkler I really think this is what you want. The 300wm will work, but based on your OP I think this is a great option if you are planning to spend money. I'm not surprised that you mentioned a carbon fiber barrel after also mentioning the scythe. Make sure you know the actual benefits and downsides of a carbon fiber barrel before buying one.

 

[K9kodi]

I don’t understand the issue with recoil.
I’ve never thought to myself during the purchasing process if a rifle has too much recoil and if so I won’t buy it. But then again, I ahoot a few times a year with my hunting rifle and don’t send tons of rounds down range, maybe the guys who are adverse to recoil spend a lot more time behind the gun than I. Maybe then I could a comfort issue

 

[grfox92]

I don’t understand the issue with recoil.
I’ve never thought to myself during the purchasing process if a rifle has too much recoil and if so I won’t buy it. But then again, I ahoot a few times a year with my hunting rifle and don’t send tons of rounds down range, maybe the guys who are adverse to recoil spend a lot more time behind the gun than I. Maybe then I could a comfort issue

Im not adverse to recoil. In fact I am extremely recoil tolerant. It doesnt really bother me. The issue with recoil in HUNTING rifle, especially for western hunting is spotting impacts and staying on target after the shot breaks. Your not doing that with a 300wm in 90% of cases.

I shot a mule deer at 650 yards this year at 10x and watched the deer get hit and go down through the scope. That wouldn't have happened with a 300wm. Then you have no idea where your deer went after the shot.

I shot an elk at 285 and had the bolt racked and a round chambered and stayed on target the entire time ready to send a second shot, but she was already going down, so I didn't need it.

Spotting impacts, follow up shots, staying on the animal for a follow up. With modern bullets why shoot a rifle that doesnt allow up to do any of those things? Guys are turning vitals into soup with 77gr projectiles burning 20 grains of powder at 400 yards with 6lbs if recoil. Why burn 70 grains of powder, shooting 200 grain projectiles with 40 lbs of recoil to accomplish the same end result?

Im not advocating a .223. My primary is a 7mm08. But there is no rational reason to shoot a big magnum in 2026.

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[Brandon.miller.4]

@DCWrinkler you have come here seeking advice, and youve recieved some.. If youre open minded enough to listen to experience from many who have gone down the same rabbit holes and walked the same path you'll find alot of us have eventually come out with the same opinions on the subject with minor differences due to personal preference. I'll offer up my own opinions, if youre wanting to know more. Long story short it sounds like they will resemble what @grfox92 has already said. I started down the custom rifle rabbit hole with a long throated, long action 300 short mag in a folding chassis with a carbon barrel. I now own nothing bigger than a 6.5mm for my hunting guns. DM me if you have specific questions.

 

[K9kodi]

Im not adverse to recoil. In fact I am extremely recoil tolerant. It doesnt really bother me. The issue with recoil in HUNTING rifle, especially for western hunting is spotting impacts and staying on target after the shot breaks. Your not doing that with a 300wm in 90% of cases.

I shot a mule deer at 650 yards this year at 10x and watched the deer get hit and go down through the scope. That wouldn't have happened with a 300wm. Then you have no idea where your deer went after the shot.

I shot an elk at 285 and had the bolt racked and a round chambered and stayed on target the entire time ready to send a second shot, but she was already going down, so I didn't need it.

Spotting impacts, follow up shots, staying on the animal for a follow up. With modern bullets why shoot a rifle that doesnt allow up to do any of those things? Guys are turning vitals into soup with 77gr projectiles burning 20 grains of powder at 400 yards with 6lbs if recoil. Why burn 70 grains of powder, shooting 200 grain projectiles with 40 lbs of recoil to accomplish the same end result?

Im not advocating a .223. My primary is a 7mm08. But there is no rational reason to shoot a big magnum in 2026.

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Yea I get it. I think. I hunt east coast and my furthest shot may be 300 yards “generally” and that’s rare. Some spots sure, but generally within 150.

This isn’t a debate on cartridge size please don’t take it take way.

 

[Wiscat]

These things go in trends. The trend right now is to shoot things with a small calibers. People are getting more involved in sports like PRS. Which is awesome. Inturn the average hunters marksmanship tends to be higher. Recoil is relative. My 10 1/2 pound 260 kicks like a monster compared to a 20 pound 6 GT. I can still do well at a PRS match. Fundamentals matter. I can’t free recoil the gun. Body position matters more, as does head position. This is exaggerated with a Magnum cartridge obviously.

My daughter is 14. Doesn’t really have any preconceived notions about recoil. She was happily shooting steel at 600 with my 300 wearing a suppressor. It’s all relative.

 

[grfox92]

Yea I get it. I think. I hunt east coast and my furthest shot may be 300 yards “generally” and that’s rare. Some spots sure, but generally within 150.

This isn’t a debate on cartridge size please don’t take it take way.

Born and raised and hunted the hardwoods of NY for 34 years. I 100% get where your coming from. Out west in the wide open mountains it's a very different story. At 150 yards you can just walk to where the deer was standing and start looking for blood. At 450 yards, shooting across a valley or from one ridge to another or in rolling sage brush, your not bee lining it to where the animal was standing in most instances.

If I was hunting the east coast still I'd be shooting a Remington pump with a 2x-10x.

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[K9kodi]

Stop talking about rem pumps!

 

[grfox92]

Stop talking about rem pumps!

Love them! I need one.

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[UncleNommies]

I have been putting together a Tikka T3x in .300 WM for an upcoming backcountry hunt. I currently have it set up with:

Rail: Salmon River Solutions 20 MOA rail
Rings: Hawkins Ultra Light Tactical (Low)
Optic: Leupold VX-5HD 3-15x44

As it sits in the standard Tikka synthetic stock, the scope is too high for proper eye alignment when I have a solid cheek weld. I have to "hover" my head to get a clear picture.

I eventually want to upgrade the stock and I’ve been looking closely at the Peak 44 Bastion. I love the weight and the vertical grip, but since it has a fixed negative comb, I’m worried I’ll run into the same height issue.

Has anyone run this specific setup (Tikka + 20 MOA rail + Hawkins lows) with the Bastion?
Does the Bastion’s comb sit significantly higher than the factory Tikka stock?
If you had this issue, did you jump to something with an adjustable riser like the MDT HNT26 or is there a lightweight "hack" for the Bastion that doesn't ruin the ergonomics?
Thanks for any insight!

I have nothing to add as far as your questions, but if you have OnX Elite, there is a 10% off all Peak 44 stocks! Hope this helps!