Ultralight Tikka .300WM Build: Seeking advice on folding stocks/cheek weld.

[K9kodi]

Google claims it’s a “superior textured grip” stock

 

[Wiscat]

Dude... The 300 win mag hate is crazy on here....

I can't offer a ton of specifics but my primary hunting rig has been a 300 Win Mag tikka since 2012. But i will give you some random info. I love it. Never had an issue with recoil on it. It shoots extremely well to distance. A few changes that its went though:

-Barrel was cut(21.5") and threaded. Velocity went from 3100 to 2965.
- I run a HarvesterEVO/Omega 300, break, or thread protector. I keep zeroing notes for all 3.
- Shoot 180gr Accubonds for everything. Loaded with RL 22.(Until it runs out)
-The barrel is at 1500rds approx and should be going but its still grouping.(Its next one will be a 300 wm too)
-I've run the factory stock, a B&C, and it now sits in a Mcmillian Game scout.
-Optics I've used on this: Vortex 4-16HSLR(like everyone back then), Leupold VX5 3-15-44, and now a NX82.5-20.
-Factory stock and B&C I used Talley lows with the first 2 optics. Originally I had a Mountain tactical rail and Nightforce UL meds on the NX8. I've since went back to Talley Med with the level.

So much to say it's been a great rifle and a faithful companion from local deer seasons to Alaska and all over the West. So if you like the round and you can shoot it have fun. I promise it will kill things very dead very quickly.

I would caution 2 things:

1. Shoot the gun and figure it out before you buy a bunch of shit. Mine ran pretty stock for a while.
2. I have a 260 with the same stock and optic. It gets way more rds on it than the 300. But the mechanics are the same.

 

[DCWrinkler]

Dude... The 300 win mag hate is crazy on here....

I can't offer a ton of specifics but my primary hunting rig has been a 300 Win Mag tikka since 2012. But i will give you some random info. I love it. Never had an issue with recoil on it. It shoots extremely well to distance. A few changes that its went though:

-Barrel was cut(21.5") and threaded. Velocity went from 3100 to 2965.
- I run a HarvesterEVO/Omega 300, break, or thread protector. I keep zeroing notes for all 3.
- Shoot 180gr Accubonds for everything. Loaded with RL 22.(Until it runs out)
-The barrel is at 1500rds approx and should be going but its still grouping.(Its next one will be a 300 wm too)
-I've run the factory stock, a B&C, and it now sits in a Mcmillian Game scout.
-Optics I've used on this: Vortex 4-16HSLR(like everyone back then), Leupold VX5 3-15-44, and now a NX82.5-20.
-Factory stock and B&C I used Talley lows with the first 2 optics. Originally I had a Mountain tactical rail and Nightforce UL meds on the NX8. I've since went back to Talley Med with the level.

So much to say it's been a great rifle and a faithful companion from local deer seasons to Alaska and all over the West. So if you like the round and you can shoot it have fun. I promise it will kill things very dead very quickly.

I would caution 2 things:

1. Shoot the gun and figure it out before you buy a bunch of shit. Mine ran pretty stock for a while.
2. I have a 260 with the same stock and optic. It gets way more rds on it than the 300. But the mechanics are the same.View attachment 1035072

Thanks man, great info and nice rifle.

 

[K9kodi]

300 is my go to

 

[Thehillbillee]

Great thread. I find myself in a similar situation. Just bought a tikka 300 win mag last fall, and I’m looking to make some additions/upgrades over the next couple years as money allows. Out of the box though it’s already a great start—w/ scope mines still sub 8lb, plenty accurate for the hunting I do, and it handles the recoil much better than my old 10 lb walnut-stocked 300.

I’ve been dreaming of adding an unknown or airlock suppressor for my first upgrade and plan to swap stocks after that.

 

[Mountain_Life]

Im going to go ahead and say what everyone is beating around the bush here....Im not trying to hurt your feelings or shit on your build....but....

I think this is a mistake. That gun is going to recoil so bad, you will never see what you shoot at once you pull the trigger. Ive spent a lot of time behind a 300 WM Tikka with a brake in a factory stock. The only way I know what I am hitting is the sound of the steel ringing in my headphones.

Even a braked Tikka 300WM put me in physical pain the next day after about 50 rounds the day before, i shoot about 100x more than the average guy and dont ever have a sore shoulder. I absolutely hated shooting that gun.

You have a magnum bolt face Tikka that has an intended use of a backcountry rifle. You have mentioned a HNT 26 and a suppressor and a carbon barrel. Here is the move, save a ton of money and order a 16 to 18" prefit Stainless steel Tikka Barrel chambered in 6.5 PRC. Drop it in a HNT26 or some other folding or collapsible chassis, put a quality suppressor on the end. Now you have a shoot able, short, compact, backcountry rifle.

@DCWrinkler I really think this is what you want. The 300wm will work, but based on your OP I think this is a great option if you are planning to spend money. I'm not surprised that you mentioned a carbon fiber barrel after also mentioning the scythe. Make sure you know the actual benefits and downsides of a carbon fiber barrel before buying one.