Ultralight barrel and suppressor ?

[passinggas33]

How did you have enough shoulder? My Montana barrel would have to get cut back just over 5" just to get to .6" for 1/2-28 threads.

I actually had the gunsmith thread the barrel to the same pitch that Kimber does, so I could still use the muzzle brake if I wanted to. Then I still use the Kimber specific thread adapter that they sale. So mine isn’t a true “direct thread” as I have an adapter.

 

[762 ULTRAMAGA]

Should I worry about the barrel being pencil diameter and not have eenough shoulder fro the can ?

I would shorten the barrel but I don't think it would be possible being fluted.

With a long pencil barrel the odds of accuracy issues after hanging a suppressor off the end is definitely higher.
I'd rebarrel or sell for sure
Also I wouldn't recommend a 5-6" can, take it from me it'll be loud as hell and you'll end up buying a longer one

 

[fireguy65]

With a long pencil barrel the odds of accuracy issues after hanging a suppressor off the end is definitely higher.







I'd rebarrel or sell for sure







Also I wouldn't recommend a 5-6" can, take it from me it'll be loud as hell and you'll end up buying a longer one



What do you use ? What would you recommend?

 

[762 ULTRAMAGA]

I love my Nomad LT, it's 8.4" long and is one of the quietest 30 cal suppressors available.
If you're absolutely hung up on length the Nomad Ti is a solid choice

 

[Formidilosus]

With a long pencil barrel the odds of accuracy issues after hanging a suppressor off the end is definitely higher.

How’s that?

 

[thinhorn_AK]

I love my Nomad LT, it's 8.4" long and is one of the quietest 30 cal suppressors available.
If you're absolutely hung up on length the Nomad Ti is a solid choice

They have that new lti now too.

 

[Colby]

I don’t know about the kimber but I have a Tikka lite compact that I got threaded and it work’s completely fine with a stainless jk can which isn’t exactly light weight. Matter of fact on that gun I took the scope off, took the barreled action to a gunsmith who pulled the barrel to thread it. Got it back put in stock put scope back on, I think I had to go up and left either .1 or .2 to get zero back. I thought that was pretty good for having it completely apart and back together and adding a fairly heavy can to the end of it.

 

[cliffy109]

I've got a Steyr Scout that I had cut to 16" and threaded. The barrel is so thin that 1/2-28" was the only option. POI shift is pretty dramatic. Like 4" at 100 yards but accuracy is excellent with the Silencerco Harvester 300. Not so much with the rugged Micro 30 but I think there is something wrong with that can anyway.

 

[Steelruger22]

That allows me to get 5/8x24 direct thread on my Kimber Montana.

Was that shoulder something that the smith added or just a spacer thrown between the barrel and the can?

 

[Loper]

I've got a Steyr Scout that I had cut to 16" and threaded. The barrel is so thin that 1/2-28" was the only option. POI shift is pretty dramatic. Like 4" at 100 yards but accuracy is excellent with the Silencerco Harvester 300. Not so much with the rugged Micro 30 but I think there is something wrong with that can anyway.

Not to derail the thread, but are you able to use the iron sights on the Scout with the can on the end?

 

[thinhorn_AK]

Was that shoulder something that the smith added or just a spacer thrown between the barrel and the can?

Something the gunsmith built on to the barrel.

 

[ChrisAU]

Something the gunsmith built on to the barrel.

What smith did that for you?

 

[thinhorn_AK]

What smith did that for you?

Shaen rifles. Highly recommend him.

 

[Steelruger22]

Shaen rifles. Highly recommend him.

Hmmm, I like that and totally see the benefit of it. Have to see if my local guy can do that. If not I might be be giving Shaen a call. I hate to ask, but what did that add to the bill?

 

[Steelruger22]

Shaen rifles. Highly recommend him.

Is the collar welded or floating?

 

[thinhorn_AK]

Is the collar welded or floating?

Seems like it’s welded but might be soldered or something.

 

[thinhorn_AK]

Hmmm, I like that and totally see the benefit of it. Have to see if my local guy can do that. If not I might be be giving Shaen a call. I hate to ask, but what did that add to the bill?

I think it was an extra 125.00 per rifle. Seemed like a good price since I was getting exactly what I wanted with no compromises.

 

[Seeknelk]

Buddy has the TBAC Dominus on his Kimber Mt ascent in 6.5 Creedmoor. Full length barrel still. Shoots great! It may CHANGE your load tune or point of impact, but will often shoot better , probably honestly from having a little more weight making you hold better and manage recoil better? Maybe? Or maybe it tames some of the nodes? Heck if I know but I'll bet it shoots at least as well as plain barrel with a proper load worked up.

The thing about it not shooting good cuz its skinny with a thick thing on the end....how much experience and proof of just that happening is out there?! A lot of things get spouted off as fact when it's all hearsay. Chop it a couple inches if you can, closer to the flutes, and have it threaded and a shoulder adapter put on by Shaen. What's the baddest thing that'll happen? You will sure learn something.

 

[Seeknelk]

I've got a Steyr Scout that I had cut to 16" and threaded. The barrel is so thin that 1/2-28" was the only option. POI shift is pretty dramatic. Like 4" at 100 yards but accuracy is excellent with the Silencerco Harvester 300. Not so much with the rugged Micro 30 but I think there is something wrong with that can anyway.

And I have point of impact shift on my 24" FAT CARBON proof 300 PRC of about 8" higher. But it is shooting slightly better groups , with the same load as before. Just some clicks and set the zero stop. Easy.

 

[cliffy109]

Not to derail the thread, but are you able to use the iron sights on the Scout with the can on the end?

I haven't tried it but I doubt it. I hate those sights anyway. It was clearly an afterthought.