Tuning questions

[William Hanson (live2hunt)]

Ok so I added 6 twists to both buss and control cables and brought it into just shy of 1/16 long on ATA. Does that sound about right? And brace height is spot on.

 

[BackcountryMT]

Ok so I added 6 twists to both buss and control cables and brought it into just shy of 1/16 long on ATA. Does that sound about right? And brace height is spot on.

Close enough. I generally don't pay "too" much attention to ATA and BH. Time to start checking the cams for timing now.

 

[OR Archer]

Ok so I added 6 twists to both buss and control cables and brought it into just shy of 1/16 long on ATA. Does that sound about right? And brace height is spot on.

Youre good to go. Time to get it timed up and to start tuning it.

 

[Ironman8]

Since the OP has a Hoyt as well, I figure this question will help both of us. Do you guys have the top cam hit slightly before the bottom cam?

I had some new strings put on my CST the other day and the shop tech said he's never heard of that and he always just has them hit at the same time. And after he told me that their method of tuning for broadheads was to just move the rest/sight for the season and then just move it back for field points afterward (all because he didn't want to take a bow "out of spec"), I think I'll be doing all my own work from here on out.

 

[BackcountryMT]

Since the OP has a Hoyt as well, I figure this question will help both of us. Do you guys have the top cam hit slightly before the bottom cam?

I had some new strings put on my CST the other day and the shop tech said he's never heard of that and he always just has them hit at the same time. And after he told me that their method of tuning for broadheads was to just move the rest/sight for the season and then just move it back for field points afterward (all because he didn't want to take a bow "out of spec"), I think I'll be doing all my own work from here on out.

I time all hybrid cam systems for the top cam hitting first (about a credit card distance). Reason behind this is that the the buss cable has a lot more pre-load(stability) than the control cable. If the top cam can hit the control cable first and take up the "slack" then you get a much better feel and backwall.

FWIW, I would never return to that shop.

 

[William Hanson (live2hunt)]

Since the OP has a Hoyt as well, I figure this question will help both of us. Do you guys have the top cam hit slightly before the bottom cam?

I had some new strings put on my CST the other day and the shop tech said he's never heard of that and he always just has them hit at the same time. And after he told me that their method of tuning for broadheads was to just move the rest/sight for the season and then just move it back for field points afterward (all because he didn't want to take a bow "out of spec"), I think I'll be doing all my own work from here on out.

Good question, I'm glad you asked. My local tech shops said similar things which is why I'm in the boat I'm in now. The bright side is I needed to learn this anyway because I've always been pickier than they wanted to deal with.

I time all hybrid cam systems for the top cam hitting first (about a credit card distance). Reason behind this is that the the buss cable has a lot more pre-load(stability) than the control cable. If the top cam can hit the control cable first and take up the "slack" then you get a much better feel and backwall.

FWIW, I would never return to that shop.

Good info! Anything else I should know?

 

[BackcountryMT]

Good info! Anything else I should know?

Here is how I will normally set up a Hoyt:

1. Install strings and cables.
2. Take the bow out of the press and max out the limb bolts if I haven't already.
3. Check for cam lean and adjust the yokes as necessary.
4. Measure ATA and BH to make sure I am relatively close.
5. Check bow for peak poundage and add/subtract twist from the cables if I am too high or low. I generally like to be 70-72#'s on a Hoyt.
6. Once all my specs are close and the bow is hitting peak weight I will put my string loop on.
* I will usually set a Hoyt loop about 1/16" high

Now it's time to tune.
1. First, I will put the bow in a draw board and work on timing until my top cam is hitting a credit card gap before the bottom.
2. Next, ill take the bow off the draw board and paint pen the cams on each side of the limb so I can monitor string stretch.
3. While the bow is still timed I will tie in the drop away (if using one) and set elevation and center shot.
4. Shoot the bow 20ish times to stretch the strings.
5. Retune on the draw board as necessary.
6. Now i'll move on to paper tuning
7. At this point, if the arrow has been properly spined to the bow I will be seeing a dang near perfect tear through paper.
8. If I have any left or right issues through paper I will put a twist into the corresponding yoke and move from there.
* Left yoke for left tear, Right yoke for right tear.
9. After a few twists on the yoke's I should be seeing a bullet hole.
10. Now i'll do a modified french tune and the bow will be ready to shoot broadheads.

Everyone's tuning steps are different but this has been the best for me.

 

[dreamingbig]

Good solid steps!

 

[Ironman8]

Great post. Thanks for the info. I'll be working on my own stuff from now on.

 

[Manosteel]

Here is how I will normally set up a Hoyt:

1. Install strings and cables.
2. Take the bow out of the press and max out the limb bolts if I haven't already.
3. Check for cam lean and adjust the yokes as necessary.
4. Measure ATA and BH to make sure I am relatively close.
5. Check bow for peak poundage and add/subtract twist from the cables if I am too high or low. I generally like to be 70-72#'s on a Hoyt.
6. Once all my specs are close and the bow is hitting peak weight I will put my string loop on.
* I will usually set a Hoyt loop about 1/16" high

Now it's time to tune.
1. First, I will put the bow in a draw board and work on timing until my top cam is hitting a credit card gap before the bottom.
2. Next, ill take the bow off the draw board and paint pen the cams on each side of the limb so I can monitor string stretch.
3. While the bow is still timed I will tie in the drop away (if using one) and set elevation and center shot.
4. Shoot the bow 20ish times to stretch the strings.
5. Retune on the draw board as necessary.
6. Now i'll move on to paper tuning
7. At this point, if the arrow has been properly spined to the bow I will be seeing a dang near perfect tear through paper.
8. If I have any left or right issues through paper I will put a twist into the corresponding yoke and move from there.
* Left yoke for left tear, Right yoke for right tear.
9. After a few twists on the yoke's I should be seeing a bullet hole.
10. Now i'll do a modified french tune and the bow will be ready to shoot broadheads.

Everyone's tuning steps are different but this has been the best for me.

Good post, I would however Bare shaft tune rather than shoot thru paper but that personal preference. I would only add that whatever you do to one side of the Yoke you do the opposite to the other yoke leg; ex add 1 twist to left yoke leg - take 1 twist OUT of right yoke leg.

livetohunt - PM me your email addy and I will send you a WORD doc I created to help explain the HOYT yoke tuning process for my brother.

 

[William Hanson (live2hunt)]

Good post, I would however Bare shaft tune rather than shoot thru paper but that personal preference. I would only add that whatever you do to one side of the Yoke you do the opposite to the other yoke leg; ex add 1 twist to left yoke leg - take 1 twist OUT of right yoke leg.

livetohunt - PM me your email addy and I will send you a WORD doc I created to help explain the HOYT yoke tuning process for my brother.

Pm sent

 

[William Hanson (live2hunt)]

Just bought a scale and it's at 63 lbs with 50-60lb limbs (I know I know, I was impatient and it's what was in stock). Is that OK or should I back off? Should my limb bolts be cranked down all the way or backed out some?

 

[William Hanson (live2hunt)]

Also top cam is hitting maybe a paper width late, what do I do to change that?

 

[OR Archer]

3# over is typical.

Put half a turn into your control cable and recheck.

 

[rhendrix]

Here is how I will normally set up a Hoyt:

1. Install strings and cables.
2. Take the bow out of the press and max out the limb bolts if I haven't already.
3. Check for cam lean and adjust the yokes as necessary.
4. Measure ATA and BH to make sure I am relatively close.
5. Check bow for peak poundage and add/subtract twist from the cables if I am too high or low. I generally like to be 70-72#'s on a Hoyt.
6. Once all my specs are close and the bow is hitting peak weight I will put my string loop on.
* I will usually set a Hoyt loop about 1/16" high

Now it's time to tune.
1. First, I will put the bow in a draw board and work on timing until my top cam is hitting a credit card gap before the bottom.
2. Next, ill take the bow off the draw board and paint pen the cams on each side of the limb so I can monitor string stretch.
3. While the bow is still timed I will tie in the drop away (if using one) and set elevation and center shot.
4. Shoot the bow 20ish times to stretch the strings.
5. Retune on the draw board as necessary.
6. Now i'll move on to paper tuning
7. At this point, if the arrow has been properly spined to the bow I will be seeing a dang near perfect tear through paper.
8. If I have any left or right issues through paper I will put a twist into the corresponding yoke and move from there.
* Left yoke for left tear, Right yoke for right tear.
9. After a few twists on the yoke's I should be seeing a bullet hole.
10. Now i'll do a modified french tune and the bow will be ready to shoot broadheads.

Everyone's tuning steps are different but this has been the best for me.

Great post, the only thing I'd add is to check your draw length as you adjust your timing, adding twists to the to the buss cable increases draw weight and draw length, so you may need to make fine adjustments to your draw length to get the hold you want, I don't care if my DL is a tad longer or shorter than 28.5", as long as I can paper tune and walk back tune and my pin float is good.

Ironman, you know where I'm at, we can work on it together, the whole reason I started workin on my own bow is because I felt like some of the shops arond here weren't commited to tuning my bow as much as I was.

 

[William Hanson (live2hunt)]

Ok guys my bare shaft and fletched are grouping decent at 20 but I can visibly see the tail of the bare shaft swing to the right in flight and is still that way at impact, what's going on?

 

[jmez]

Grip torque

 

[BackcountryMT]

Have you checked the bare shaft through paper?

 

[William Hanson (live2hunt)]

How can I be sure it's grip torque and how do I correct it?

I have not put an arrow through paper yet.

 

[Manosteel]

Grip torque is hard to explain over the interweb, there was a very good post on grip torque by Ontarget7 on this site a little while back. You are pretty close, just a half a twist away if you are not choking the grip. Without seeing you shoot I can't tell, you could be spot on.

Shot 2 bareshafts (to make sure you are consistent) and 2 fletched at 10 yards, a few times, take a pic or results after each round, and do the same thing at 20 yards. You will have a pretty good idea what to do from their if anything.