Truck Suspension Upgrade

[GunsAreFun]

Oh yeah, I've already been offroad about a dozen times in it between shooting, turkey, coyote, and shed hunting. Snow, rocky steep roads, potholes, and washboard. Smoother than my 2014 Ram but only a bit. Not able to go any quicker on those roads comfortably and it really gets jumpy over washboard.

I know airing down / having more sidewall will be a huge help, but I need to lift the front end anyways and I'd rather not do a puck with stock shocks. So I'm replacing them either way. My understanding is the FX4 only gets you "upgraded" front shocks, rears are no different. And changing those makes a big difference from what I've read.

Gotcha. Ya. I went down a similar search last year after washboard road kicked my ass for a ten day elk hunt. I think this year I am going to try airing down to 20ish PSI and see what that does before I go crazy spending money.

 

[JFK]

I have the bilstien 6112/5160 on my 17’ Tundra. It’s good, but my buddy has Fox remote reservoir on his Tacoma and it’s in a completely different league. Bilstien handles off-road. The Fox suspension makes it fun and is a way more plush ride.

 

[SteveAndTheCrigBoys]

I have the bilstien 6112/5160 on my 17’ Tundra. It’s good, but my buddy has Fox remote reservoir on his Tacoma and it’s in a completely different league. Bilstien handles off-road. The Fox suspension makes it fun and is a way more plush ride.

That's where I'm stuck on spending the extra money for adjustable resi's. If the ride quality is legitimately better and I was going to spend that amount in the first place, seems like the way to go.

 

[Jason Snyder]

Gotcha. Ya. I went down a similar search last year after washboard road kicked my ass for a ten day elk hunt. I think this year I am going to try airing down to 20ish PSI and see what that does before I go crazy spending money.

I routinely air down to 20 or so and n rough roads, snow, etc.

It makes a world of difference. Also, traction boards are about useless if you don’t air down.

 

[SteveAndTheCrigBoys]

I routinely air down to 20 or so and n rough roads, snow, etc.

It makes a world of difference. Also, traction boards are about useless if you don’t air down.

That's my plan. I've read that a good rule of thumb for airing down is no lower than your wheel diameter if you don't have bead locks. So 20 PSI should be safe.

Went down the rabbit hole on compressors and decided I didn't want to mount on board. This EZ Flate CASE was impressive, beat out a twin ARB compressor in this video. Say 15 minutes total for air up/air down including setup time with the quad hoses.

C.A.S.E. - 10.6 CFM Portable Dual Air Compressor

The EZ FLATE C.A.S.E. is the Concealed Air Support Equipment you need to get your tires back to road-worthy PSI! *DOES NOT COME WITH MULTI-TIRE HOSE KIT. MUST PURCHASE HOSE KIT SEPARATELY* With dual cylinder compressors pumping out 10.6 CFM, you'll be blown away by how much time it saves when...

ezflate.com

 

[Jason Snyder]

I have the 18” TRD rims. I’ve done down to 18 PSI, never lower. It’s amazing how much it changes the performance.

 

[JFK]

That's where I'm stuck on spending the extra money for adjustable resi's. If the ride quality is legitimately better and I was going to spend that amount in the first place, seems like the way to go.

The ride quality on the 2.5” remote resi shocks is noticeably better. Whether or not it’s worth the extra cash is debatable, but ive ridden in a few trucks with the 2.5” remote shocks, both fox and icon on Toyotas and half ton chevys and it’s a very nice ride. Better than the bilstien 6112/5160 in every regard except price.

 

[Jason Snyder]

Whether or not it’s worth the extra cash is debatable,

This is always the million dollar question.

OP, have you looked at Dobinsons?

 

[SteveAndTheCrigBoys]

This is always the million dollar question.

OP, have you looked at Dobinsons?

I've seen the name, looks like they don't make anything for F150 outside of 2009-2013 year models. But they do have 3-way "universal" coilovers with reservoirs. I'll look into them.

 

[BigAl!]

That's where I'm stuck on spending the extra money for adjustable resi's. If the ride quality is legitimately better and I was going to spend that amount in the first place, seems like the way to go.

I think remote reservoir's are great. The high and low speed adjustments do work. However, you have to keep in mind that they require you to get out of the vehicle and adjust them. It's not hard or anything, but it's something that you can get forget to do or get lazy about. They are also supposed to help with cooling, but unless you're really beating the snot of your truck, a piggyback is probably more than enough. Airing down when in rugged terrain really helps with traction, control, and comfort.

Edit: as mentioned in this thread already, be cognizant that most tires in the 34+ sizes are D or E rated. I had E rated 37s and the ride quality suffered, even when running them pretty low (on road) at 28 psi. That is to be expected though, because they are a 10 ply tire and most stock offerings are a P or similar for half ton vehicles. I just went to a C rated Falken Wildpeak and wish I would have from the start.

 

[Jason Snyder]

In thinking about this, if I had the money I would do the Fox 2.5 with RR. Keep in mind they will need rebuilt fairly often.

I think this setup, with 17” rims and airing tires down appropriately would ride like an absolute dream.

My Tundra is pretty much stock except for the Eibachs, and I if I air down I can ride pretty comfy on some rough roads. I think the Fox would make it night and day difference.

 

[SteveAndTheCrigBoys]

Diving more into digressive vs linear vs progressive valving, seems like a linear or progressive is more inline with what I'm wanting out of the setup.

Most Fox shocks and most King shocks are linear, while most Icon shocks and entry level Bilstein shocks (5100 & 6100) are digressive.

Summary
Digressive shocks are bad at small bumps and large bumps, but good at handling and g-outs. Progressive shocks are good at small bumps and big hits, but bad at handling and g-outs. Linear shocks provide the best all around performance.

Digressive vs Linear vs Progressive Pistons & Shock Valving - AccuTune Off-Road

Ryan Raker, the founder and author of this article, has been designing, tuning, and manufacturing shocks with digressive, linear, and progressive damping

accutuneoffroad.com

 

[Marshfly]

Diving more into digressive vs linear vs progressive valving, seems like a linear or progressive is more inline with what I'm wanting out of the setup.

Most Fox shocks and most King shocks are linear, while most Icon shocks and entry level Bilstein shocks (5100 & 6100) are digressive.

Summary
Digressive shocks are bad at small bumps and large bumps, but good at handling and g-outs. Progressive shocks are good at small bumps and big hits, but bad at handling and g-outs. Linear shocks provide the best all around performance.

Digressive vs Linear vs Progressive Pistons & Shock Valving - AccuTune Off-Road

Ryan Raker, the founder and author of this article, has been designing, tuning, and manufacturing shocks with digressive, linear, and progressive damping

accutuneoffroad.com

To complicate matters even more coils will be linear or progressive also... I'm glad there's only two real quality players in the Ram HD space. Makes my head hurt.

My mom is selling me her Lexus GX for my soon to be driving age son. I've been pouring over suspension options for that thing and it's just as confusing as what you are seeing with your F150.

 

[pitchin jigs]

I have experience with bilstein 6112s and also icons. To me, the icons ride better.

I did have a rear remote reservoir leak after only 10k or so miles on the Icon which was unfortunate, luckily they can be rebuilt.

 

[Thinkingman]

I have done this to my 2015 F150, 6.5' bed, 3.5 Ecoboost with the 6sp tranny.
It is not an FX4 package.
I put Eibach Sport springs for lift and Bilstein 5100s at their lowest setting(Never preload shocks for lift, that's a 'Toyota Bro for looks' method).
I am on my second set of Falken Wildpeak AT3W in LT275/70/18 and they measure just over 33".
No rubbing, perfect clearance. They weigh 2X what the stock tires weigh, 62lbs.
I drive as rough of dirt roads as any production-based truck should and have never needed to adjust gearing. If I feel like I'm riding the torque converter too much, I just go 4lo and problem solved.
The Bilstein 5100s have great damping, however they are harsh.
On basalt cobble, I need to air down and bought the kit to do that. Normally around 24lbs because I fear a temperature drop taking me into the teens and on stock rims, that's a risk.
I voted Fox 2.0 because that will be the next shock I buy, whatever the truck application.

 

[BRTreedogs]

I would be a little cautious comparing the ride of a taco to a tundra. They weight, weight distribution etc I'm sure is much different.

 

[Jason Snyder]

Following my nephews today in their fancy side by sides. Have my tires at 20 psi. Absolutely no issues keeping up with them in rough and rutted forest service roads.

Can’t image how nice this would be with new UCAs and some remote reservoir 2.5” Foxes.

 

[StuckInTheEast]

Bilstein 6112/5160 on my overweight 16 tundra...rides and handles better than stock by far even with 10 ply tires on 18s weighing well over rated payload.
If your not off roading for the sheer fun of off roding I think the price point/quality of the Bilstein for what they give you is pretty hard to beat for a daily driver that does occasional hunting/off road work.
Even before adding all the weight the ride difference between my wife's stock sr5 tundra and mine with the bilsteins was night and day better with the Bilsteins. After a spacer type level kit and going to 20s with heavy tires on the wifes(what she wanted)...hers rides/handles like crap compared to mine...so much so I think im gonna get stuck putting the 6112/5160 combo on hers now too.
Full disclaimer....Ive never run fox or icon anything so I don't have a good comparison, but everything Bilstein Ive used has served me we'll thus far. In my humble opinion, having to rebuild/reseal at 15-30k miles of usage is the same as a failure. Ive not had any bilstein product let me down in low amount of use yet. If it did it would just get swapped out and warrantied instead of having to find/send it to anyone in particular to rebuild properly.

 

[bayoublaster7527]

Had the bilstein 611/5160 setup on a tundra. Really liked it and hard to beat for the money. Went to Carli backcountry on current 3/4 ton truck.

 

[180ls1]

Diving more into digressive vs linear vs progressive valving, seems like a linear or progressive is more inline with what I'm wanting out of the setup.

Most Fox shocks and most King shocks are linear, while most Icon shocks and entry level Bilstein shocks (5100 & 6100) are digressive.

Summary
Digressive shocks are bad at small bumps and large bumps, but good at handling and g-outs. Progressive shocks are good at small bumps and big hits, but bad at handling and g-outs. Linear shocks provide the best all around performance.

Digressive vs Linear vs Progressive Pistons & Shock Valving - AccuTune Off-Road

Ryan Raker, the founder and author of this article, has been designing, tuning, and manufacturing shocks with digressive, linear, and progressive damping

accutuneoffroad.com

Agreed.

A reservoir is REALLY not needed for forest roads. You have to be absolutely bombing at high speeds for a long time to need the extra fluid/cooling.

Depending how much you value comfort, I absolutely would look at shocks where you can adjust the dampening/rebound. Many of the suggestions are going to be way too harsh.