Training for a Goose Hunt

[Bidwell]

I got a semi-guided goose hunt coming up in November at a pretty affordble field. 200 bucks for a day. I'm a rookie waterfowl hunter so thought it would be worth it for educational purposes. Looking for any training advice you might have. My equipment is a 12 gauge pump that takes 3 1/3 shells, and i got one of those new caldwell claycopters. Pretty fun so far. I like that you have a lot of control of shot angle and is even useful for rabbit hunting practice since you can get low to the ground. But, like any thrower there are some limitations.

Anyway, the guy whos running the hunt hss been pretty helpful with advice but i dont want to keep texting him questions. Any training exercises or techniques i should work on? Im in CA so i need to use bismuth, steel, etc. Id take any recommendations for shot type, choke type. What ranges i should be comfortable at and patterned in for? How far do you lead geese at what ranges?

Thanks for any ideas and advice.

 

[KurtR]

Is this over decoys . If so 3” 2 shot is all I ever shoot usally black cloud. If they are feet down put it in its head the first shot and then adjust.

Listen to the guide keep your face down and don’t shoot till he says.

 

[Nine Banger]

Do you have access to a sporting clays range?

If you shot 100 clay targets a week until the hunt with that gun and 1oz loads I bet you'd be in good shape shooting wise.

 

[Bidwell]

Is this over decoys . If so 3” 2 shot is all I ever shoot usally black cloud. If they are feet down put it in its head the first shot and then adjust.

Listen to the guide keep your face down and don’t shoot till he says.

Yeah over decoys. Thanks for the notes! Sounds good.

 

[Bidwell]

Do you have access to a sporting clays range?

If you shot 100 clay targets a week until the hunt with that gun and 1oz loads I bet you'd be in good shape shooting wise.

Not really. Nothing around here. Just got the claycopter. 100 a week is a good number to aim for though.

 

[KurtR]

Yeah over decoys. Thanks for the notes! Sounds good.

listen to the guide offer to help set out and pick up and next thing you know you will be addicted have a trailer full of decoys and a couple labs you train year round. Makes back country hunting cheap.

 

[chizelhead]

• 3 1/2 shells through a pump sounds stout to me. 3" or 2 3/4" for geese over decoys sounds much better especially with bismuth. BTW - everyone has to shoot nonlead for waterfowl, so everyone is in the same boat.
• Your choke will depend on distance and shot type ie bismuth or steel. With steel you want a more open choke. Ask your guide what a typical shot range is. You may discover by Nov, the geese are educated and may not decoy and instead fly high. Please don't sky blast.
• Figure out a way to cover your face with a mask. Camo bandana or neck gaiter works well.

 

[Bidwell]

listen to the guide offer to help set out and pick up and next thing you know you will be addicted have a trailer full of decoys and a couple labs you train year round. Makes back country hunting cheap.

Ha! Yeah i bet.

 

[Bidwell]

• 3 1/2 shells through a pump sounds stout to me. 3" or 2 3/4" for geese over decoys sounds much better especially with bismuth. BTW - everyone has to shoot nonlead for waterfowl, so everyone is in the same boat.
• Your choke will depend on distance and shot type ie bismuth or steel. With steel you want a more open choke. Ask your guide what a typical shot range is. You may discover by Nov, the geese are educated and may not decoy and instead fly high. Please don't sky blast.
• Figure out a way to cover your face with a mask. Camo bandana or neck gaiter works well.

Thanks! That all sounds good. Do you think its worth having a semi auto for waterfowl in general? Ive been considering it

 

[Wheels]

Geese fly slow, if you are hunting with a group you’ll likely be shooting at a goose that’s already been shot by several others. Everyone’s eyes go to the closest bird and that’s where they will be shooting.

 

[rookieforever33]

Semi auto is more of a benefit if hunting in a smaller group. Also great when a group of 10-12 all come down right on you. Most guys I hunt with use 3 inch #2 or BB. The #2 gives you a better spread for closer, and BB gives you more range. Take some of each with you so you can be ready for what the birds are doing. You are right on with shooting a lot of clays. Being smooth with whatever shitgun you have will help you more than anything.

 

[CorbLand]

Thanks! That all sounds good. Do you think its worth having a semi auto for waterfowl in general? Ive been considering it

Most of the guys I hunt with have semi autos. I can’t say that they have killed a single bird more than me due to having them.

You would be way further ahead taking that money and buying shells/clays and shooting your pump more.


Keep your head down, hide your face, listen to your guide but most important, just start using meth. It’s far cheaper.

 

[LongWayAround]

Thanks! That all sounds good. Do you think its worth having a semi auto for waterfowl in general? Ive been considering it

Yes. The recoil reduction helps you stay on target.

 

[Bidwell]

Most of the guys I hunt with have semi autos. I can’t say that they have killed a single bird more than me due to having them.

You would be way further ahead taking that money and buying shells/clays and shooting your pump more.


Keep your head down, hide your face, listen to your guide but most important, just start using meth. It’s far cheaper.

Most of that is really good advice ;-)

 

[chizelhead]

Thanks! That all sounds good. Do you think its worth having a semi auto for waterfowl in general? Ive been considering it

Try your first season with the pump. If it works, no need to get an auto.

 

[chizelhead]

Try your first season with the pump. If it works, which it likely will, no need to get an auto.

 

[Bidwell]

Solid assessment. Not to derail my own post, but what I'd like is an ultralight 20 or 28 gauge o/u or autoloader for upland.

 

[Fowl Play]

I’d stick with the gun you have. Just practice. For decoying birds, I’d stick with 3” shells. Shooting 3.5” can actually be detrimental, it’s a big step up in recoil, makes it harder to make accurate follow up shots, etc.

Biggest thing for geese is they can really soak up body shots. You need to get hits to the head/neck… and they have a very long neck. You will need to pull through the bird more than what you will be training for to shoot clays. This is an adjustment you will just need to realize/make during the hunt.

For the time being with your practice, ensure you are pulling through your target with good follow-through. A properly placed shot should powderize a clay, not just chip pieces off or break it in half. Once you have that down, on game day you will just need to stretch out your pull through. Pull the trigger as you pass through their beak… not their body.

 

[Jason Snyder]

About 90% of the geese I’ve killed over decoys were with 3” 2 shot.

Read the previous post and burn it into memory.

 

[Blcktail56]

As far as all around hunting just help where you can and watch and learn! Listen to what your guide is telling you to do and tell him that you are new to it and don’t be scared to ask questions. Not just about what they are doing but why so that when the time comes for you to do it you know how to adjust. Keep your head down but watch birds the best you can to learn the behavior. Listen to the noises they are making and the noises your guide is making.

As far as shooting I would stick with 3” 2 shot. I kill plenty of geese with 3 shot honestly it’s all about getting BBs in the head and neck so the more BBs the better (to an extent of course). And shoot clays as much as you can then when you are shooting geese remember their head is about the size of a clay pigeon so shoot for that don’t worry about the body. Just lead the head and you will be fine. If you don’t have much experience with a shotgun 90% of shooting issues are not having your head all the way down on the stock, all you should see is the bead on the end.