Training for a Goose Hunt

I got a semi-guided goose hunt coming up in November at a pretty affordble field. 200 bucks for a day. I'm a rookie waterfowl hunter so thought it would be worth it for educational purposes. Looking for any training advice you might have. My equipment is a 12 gauge pump that takes 3 1/3 shells, and i got one of those new caldwell claycopters. Pretty fun so far. I like that you have a lot of control of shot angle and is even useful for rabbit hunting practice since you can get low to the ground. But, like any thrower there are some limitations.

Anyway, the guy whos running the hunt hss been pretty helpful with advice but i dont want to keep texting him questions. Any training exercises or techniques i should work on? Im in CA so i need to use bismuth, steel, etc. Id take any recommendations for shot type, choke type. What ranges i should be comfortable at and patterned in for? How far do you lead geese at what ranges?

Thanks for any ideas and advice.
First off what type of hide? A frame, pit, coffin blind? This is where you want to practice. Especially from layout blind. Practice with hunting cloths on. Might be hot ,but shooting with bulky clothes changes everything. Birds will be either coming in straight at you or passing by the most. You will have birds leaving also. There will be one guide calling the shots, so listen to him. When shooting keep it between 10 and 2 unless you're on an end. That's for safety. What type of geese are you hunting and what time of the season? Small geese 3in 2 work great. Big geese early season 3in 2 are good. Later in season i will try 3 in 2 first shell then back it up with 3.5 bb. When shooting big geese get on the beak. If your hunting cacklers don't rush , pick one bird to shoot. They will ball up after first shot, and that's when you can get two or three in one shot. But still aim for one, or you might get none. Good hunting for a california goose hunter.
 
First off what type of hide? A frame, pit, coffin blind? This is where you want to practice. Especially from layout blind. Practice with hunting cloths on. Might be hot ,but shooting with bulky clothes changes everything. Birds will be either coming in straight at you or passing by the most. You will have birds leaving also. There will be one guide calling the shots, so listen to him. When shooting keep it between 10 and 2 unless you're on an end. That's for safety. What type of geese are you hunting and what time of the season? Small geese 3in 2 work great. Big geese early season 3in 2 are good. Later in season i will try 3 in 2 first shell then back it up with 3.5 bb. When shooting big geese get on the beak. If your hunting cacklers don't rush , pick one bird to shoot. They will ball up after first shot, and that's when you can get two or three in one shot. But still aim for one, or you might get none. Good hunting for a california goose hunter.
Thanks! Sounds like we'll be in a seated blind if some type. I think he mentioned it's a flip top blind. Good ideas all around. Makes sense to practice with my hunting cloths
 
As far as all around hunting just help where you can and watch and learn! Listen to what your guide is telling you to do and tell him that you are new to it and don’t be scared to ask questions. Not just about what they are doing but why so that when the time comes for you to do it you know how to adjust. Keep your head down but watch birds the best you can to learn the behavior. Listen to the noises they are making and the noises your guide is making.

As far as shooting I would stick with 3” 2 shot. I kill plenty of geese with 3 shot honestly it’s all about getting BBs in the head and neck so the more BBs the better (to an extent of course). And shoot clays as much as you can then when you are shooting geese remember their head is about the size of a clay pigeon so shoot for that don’t worry about the body. Just lead the head and you will be fine. If you don’t have much experience with a shotgun 90% of shooting issues are not having your head all the way down on the stock, all you should see is the bead on the end.
Appreciate it! I'm hoping to get some of this figured out with clays, but the part I'm worried most about is how much to lead the geese. Obviously this is dependent on many, many factors but I'm hoping to pick up an intuition for it
 
Appreciate it! I'm hoping to get some of this figured out with clays, but the part I'm worried most about is how much to lead the geese.
When you try to measure lead your barrel is going to slow down and you will miss behind. If you watch folks shoot that measure lead you can see their barrels zigging and zagging like the tip of Zorro's sword.

When you start shooting, throw one target just to watch. Identify a bright spot, crease, ring or feature on the clay that you can focus on during the shot. Maintain soft focus on the shooting area, move with the target and then switch to hard focus on that little spot just before the shot...keep the barrel moving and gently pull away from the target as you pull the trigger all the while maintaining hard focus on that spot. Stay in the gun swinging and watch the target break. "Pull away until you see pieces."

If you practice seeing detail and get proficient in the habit it will help in the field because each goose will also have some detail on their head or neck that stands out. If you don't hard focus on the head as you pull the trigger you will make body shots because that's where all the fluttering is and that is where the eye is drawn.
 
I shoot some rather large rifles. 458 win mag would probably be the biggest. The fastest recoil 300 weatherby. I have a browning maxxus for waterfowl. I'll put 40 shells through my 9.3x62 no sweat. I bought one box of 3.5 inch shells for it. They're horrid. Never again. I'm now afraid of 416 weatherby mag and 3.5 inch shotgun shells.
 
When you try to measure lead your barrel is going to slow down and you will miss behind. If you watch folks shoot that measure lead you can see their barrels zigging and zagging like the tip of Zorro's sword.

When you start shooting, throw one target just to watch. Identify a bright spot, crease, ring or feature on the clay that you can focus on during the shot. Maintain soft focus on the shooting area, move with the target and then switch to hard focus on that little spot just before the shot...keep the barrel moving and gently pull away from the target as you pull the trigger all the while maintaining hard focus on that spot. Stay in the gun swinging and watch the target break. "Pull away until you see pieces."

If you practice seeing detail and get proficient in the habit it will help in the field because each goose will also have some detail on their head or neck that stands out. If you don't hard focus on the head as you pull the trigger you will make body shots because that's where all the fluttering is and that is where the eye is drawn.
I think this makes the most sense out of anything I've heard so far. Appreciate it! I'll try practicing this.
 
Appreciate it! I'm hoping to get some of this figured out with clays, but the part I'm worried most about is how much to lead the geese. Obviously this is dependent on many, many factors but I'm hoping to pick up an intuition for it
just to add to what nine banger said, if you are "measuring" lead it means you are aiming--that's an almost guaranteed miss. Basically aiming of any sort means you are focusing to a degree on the barrel or bead of your gun. When you do that, the bead will appear to be moving faster than the bird becasue it's closer, and your eye will naturally focus on the bead--NOT the bird--becasue that's just how your eyes work, they automatically focus on motion. Focusing on the barrel rather than the target prevents your natural eye-hand coordination from functioning properly, and you will miss. The one, single most fundamental element of shooting a shotgun at flying things is to NEVER AIM. You look at the target and focus on the beak of the target and nothing else. Without breaking your focus, mount the gun and shoot the target. Your natural eye-hand coordination will build-in the lead, but only if you have a HARD focus on the target. In reality there are some other techniques people use and you may need to swing through the target a bit, but you'll hit a LOT more birds doing this than you will by "measuring" or consciously "leading" the bird by checking where the barrel is in relation to the bird becasue that IS "aiming".
 
Does semi guided mean you are on your own for meals and lodging but guided while hunting?

ZERO reason to shoot 3 1/2 shells ZERO anyone that tell you different is consumed by tough guy hype. Standard 3" # 1,2, or 3 steel will kill any goose you have business shooting at. I would practice shooting in the position you will be hunting. so if you will be hunting out of layout blinds practice shooting from a layout blind...it is a totally different game. Or practice out of a A frame or sitting position transitioning to standing...etc.

Practice if possible incoming and 1/4 to crossing shots. If you can go to a gun club and shoot sporting clays or better yet a "duck tower" do it. Duck tower especially gives you different incoming out going and crossing shots up over top.

Whoever says geese "fly slow" is goofy. They can fly over 40mph. Coming in and decoying yeah the slow way down but so do ducks. Lead them more than you think...If you miss 90% of the time you are shooting behind them. The other 10% you are probably shooting over and behind them.
 
I would practice shooting in the position you will be hunting. so if you will be hunting out of layout blinds practice shooting from a layout blind...

I like this.

If I was going on the trip I'd ship a cheap layout blind here and then get in it and hand the clay launching remote to one of my kids and go to town.
 
Appreciate it! I'm hoping to get some of this figured out with clays, but the part I'm worried most about is how much to lead the geese. Obviously this is dependent on many, many factors but I'm hoping to pick up an intuition for it
To me a lot of it is instinct. Half of the time if you ask me how far in front of the bird I was I would have no clue. When I’m missing birds then I pay attention and could tell you. And you will get there if you stick with practice and start killing birds. Geese are big and slow. In close no lead or just in front of the bill. As they get out there your lead grows and you just have to feel that out. On ducks you are almost always shooting behind them but geese that isn’t necessarily the case. Keep your head on the stock and your barrel moving. Just in your house or whatever practice shouldering your shotgun by doing it with your eyes closed. If everything is right you should open your eyes and see clearly down the barrel and not see the rib and just see the bead. If you see the rib you need to get further down on the stock.
 
just to add to what nine banger said, if you are "measuring" lead it means you are aiming--that's an almost guaranteed miss. Basically aiming of any sort means you are focusing to a degree on the barrel or bead of your gun. When you do that, the bead will appear to be moving faster than the bird becasue it's closer, and your eye will naturally focus on the bead--NOT the bird--becasue that's just how your eyes work, they automatically focus on motion. Focusing on the barrel rather than the target prevents your natural eye-hand coordination from functioning properly, and you will miss. The one, single most fundamental element of shooting a shotgun at flying things is to NEVER AIM. You look at the target and focus on the beak of the target and nothing else. Without breaking your focus, mount the gun and shoot the target. Your natural eye-hand coordination will build-in the lead, but only if you have a HARD focus on the target. In reality there are some other techniques people use and you may need to swing through the target a bit, but you'll hit a LOT more birds doing this than you will by "measuring" or consciously "leading" the bird by checking where the barrel is in relation to the bird becasue that IS "aiming".
Makes a lot of sense, think I'm starting to form a baseline to start practicing from
 
Does semi guided mean you are on your own for meals and lodging but guided while hunting?

ZERO reason to shoot 3 1/2 shells ZERO anyone that tell you different is consumed by tough guy hype. Standard 3" # 1,2, or 3 steel will kill any goose you have business shooting at. I would practice shooting in the position you will be hunting. so if you will be hunting out of layout blinds practice shooting from a layout blind...it is a totally different game. Or practice out of a A frame or sitting position transitioning to standing...etc.

Practice if possible incoming and 1/4 to crossing shots. If you can go to a gun club and shoot sporting clays or better yet a "duck tower" do it. Duck tower especially gives you different incoming out going and crossing shots up over top.

Whoever says geese "fly slow" is goofy. They can fly over 40mph. Coming in and decoying yeah the slow way down but so do ducks. Lead them more than you think...If you miss 90% of the time you are shooting behind them. The other 10% you are probably shooting over and behind them.
I've read that they can fly damn fast. I think I'll be with a group of up to 7, and there may be another group like that as well. From what I gather, there will be two guides there with us. So it wont be one on one but still some good interaction. I really wish we had a club around here. Closest one is 90 miles. I could go once or twice but it's not a place that I could visit often. I got the claycopter and it's great but that's even tough to find someone to get out there consistently with me. I may get a wheelybird with a remote so i can just go out anytime. I called the local blm office today and they said as long ss I'm using biodegradable clays I can shoot them. Same with national forest land.

You gave some similar advice as the guide. He said to practice sitting in a chair and getting up rapidly to shoot. He specifically said, sit up fast and shoot slow.
 
Practice getting up out of a chair and mounting your shotgun. Do it very slow and deliberately at first until you can do it perfectly. Then speed it up a little.

I hunt chukars five months out of the year. I shoot very few clays, but I practice mounting my shotgun all the time.
 
I do the same as a couple others mentioned and usually have a 2 in the first shot and then BB for the next two, or two 2's and one BB, but it's completely unnecessary to do that. Just pick up some 2 shot and you'll be good to go. A day of 3.5" goose loads in a pump may beat you up, so I'd stick with 3".

Around here, we'll often have birds landing within the decoys and blinds early season. I would usually let a couples feet hit the ground and then call the shot and shoot at the higher ones first. Then focus on the ones taking off again. Biggest thing is FOCUS on one bird - don't try to see ALL the birds, or you'll miss ALL the birds.
 
3 1/2 inch shells will hamper your ability to shoot, they have way too much recoil to recover from for a second or 3rd shot, drop to 2 3/4 #2
I hunt with a 20ga and #2 bithmeth , my hunting buddy shoots a 28ga
It’s not the size of your gauge it’s the shooting form and recovery time
Only advantage I see in 3 1/2 12 or 10ga is for sky busters trying to break a wing .
Practice by having your wife or kids punch you in the face to toughen your cheeks up , those big boomers kick pretty hard;)
 
There is so much good advice already mentioned so not much to add however YouTube will have tons of videos you can watch as well and see what they are doing and get a better understanding, There are so many videos you might have to sift through some of the guys that don't know what they are doing but find a few decent people and see if you can pick up a few things from them.
 
I’m going to reiterate what many have already said so bear with me.

#1 ditch the 3-1/2s they’re violent and rarely pattern well

#2 shoot or practice. Skeet is my go to for general practice because it’s repeatable and you will want a skeet choke. After that practice how you are going to hunt, layout blind (never barrel inside layout) or a-frame (a-frame will be close enough to a pit). Target shells are fine.

#3 pattern your shotgun with various chokes (aftermarket isn’t always better) and loads. Go buy a 48x48” roll of paper online and get a sharpie to record everything on the sheet you shoot at. You’re going to learn a lot from this whether it be your gun shoots high, max ranges of choke, holes in pattern ect. Remember in a factory choke steel shot “chokes up” ie a mod will be more like improved mod. Unless its late winter #2s is my go to with a light mod. I have also found slower loads pattern better contrary to marketing hype.

If you do buy aftermarket chokes Briley extended is my first choice for a few reasons but do your research. Extended chokes help protect the barrel even just from in and of case wear as a bonus.

As always keep that pie face down and don’t move when birds are working, a brimmed hat helps.

Let me know if you have any other questions

Good luck!


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re: choke changing

I've been shooting MOD/IMOD fixed barrels for the last 15,000 rounds or so.

I break rabbits at 20 yards. I break minis and midis. I break soft-slow-close targets at the local resort range. I break 60 yard fast crossers at FITASC competitions.

It doesn't matter that much.
 
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