Tikka T3X Upgrades

[btb1983]

My definition of "useless" would be a long action receiver Creedmoor with 30+ inch barrel (with suppressor) with a Vortex scope riding on it to use as a short range hunting rifle.

What would be your ultimate setup, if you were in my shoes?

 

[JGRaider]

What would be your ultimate setup, if you were in my shoes?

Given your parameters in your OP, I'd keep that rig, chop it to 18", suppress it, load some 130 AB's at 2700fps, and kill the crap out of everything you shoot at. This "that scope's gonna fail" rhetoric is pure nonsense. Have some fun with it.

 

[wind gypsy]

Given your parameters in your OP, I'd keep that rig, chop it to 18", suppress it, load some 130 AB's at 2700fps, and kill the crap out of everything you shoot at. This "that scope's gonna fail" rhetoric is pure nonsense. Have some fun with it.

The Vipers in particular don't have a good track record and besides that, the 4-16 glass is pretty lousy. I remember the cabelas bargain cave having a whole display case full of refurbished ones back when the bargain cave was a thing.

Rifle Scopes - Another Vortex down

This is the 3rd Vortex scope I have had to send back for warranty work. This time it is a Viper HS that I have had for about 3 years. It was mounted on a Rem 700 270 that I fired maybe 50 rounds through for zeroing and load work up. Then I built a 300 black out and decided to put it in an...

www.snipershide.com

Viper HSLR and HST Still Competitive?

I am not well versed at "quality" optics, however, I am trying my best to get the best bang for buck in an optic right at, or almost right at, 20 ounces. Both of these fit the bill. BUT, are they good enough for moderately low light (not dark, just shooting hours low light)? Clear enough for...

rokslide.com

 

[mxgsfmdpx]

Scope and scope mounting failure is the number one non shooter related issue I’ve seen with folks rifles when brought out to shoot. Ignoring this as some kind of “rhetoric” will be a costly mistake.

 

[sdupontjr]

Man I see some crazy comments. Its a tikka in 6.5 creed that will be shot out to 200 yards. I can do that with a 350 legend.

The original stock is just fine for his application. He may want to free float the barrel but not much else. A victor cheek riser would certainly help with the OEM stock.

If its pre-threaded, go as is. If the barrel is fluted, you're only going to be able to cut back so far. Is that 1-2" really worth the time and $$ to do so.

"If" the OP wants a lighter trigger pull, replace the trigger spring.

He could also add a limb saver to the OEM stock

I've owned a viper pst 4-16x50 and while the glass wasn't great, it definitely will work for 200 yard shots unless low light is a priority. Then a whole different ball of wax is opened into low light optics.

Trigger spring - $10
Limb Saver - $40
Victor Cheek riser - $35

For less than $100, these are significant changes that can be made to a stock tikka and make it feel and shoot much better. Just my opinion though.

 

[JGRaider]

Right on sdupontjr. It's a set and forget scope, he's not trying to win freaking Camp Perry.

 

[KenLee]

What would be your ultimate setup, if you were in my shoes?

Not the ultimate, but currently the best combo for the money in your chosen 6.5 Creed, I posted it already in this thread.
18 inch suppressor ready x-bolt crazy cheap and an Amplus 6 leica. Add a $15 mcarbo trigger spring if you wish.
If you want a simple duplex with nice illuminated center dot, a $700 Accupoint 2.5-10x56.
With your legal shooting time of half hour after sunset, I'd probably go with the simplicity of the Accupoint. I have 5 Leicas and 3 Accupoints.
Add a nice suppressor and you are set.
For hunting a half hour after sunset and only 200 yards, you are just spewing $ to buy anything more expensive.

 

[thinhorn_AK]

What would be your ultimate setup, if you were in my shoes?

The same rifle you have now.
-cut the barrel to 18" get threaded/adapted for 5/8x24
-Ultimate Munitions scope rings
-Nightforce SHV 3-10 scope

find/make ammo that the gun likes and buy as much as you can afford/justify, then shoot at least once per week.

 

[wind gypsy]

Man I see some crazy comments. Its a tikka in 6.5 creed that will be shot out to 200 yards. I can do that with a 350 legend.

The original stock is just fine for his application. He may want to free float the barrel but not much else. A victor cheek riser would certainly help with the OEM stock.

If its pre-threaded, go as is. If the barrel is fluted, you're only going to be able to cut back so far. Is that 1-2" really worth the time and $$ to do so.

"If" the OP wants a lighter trigger pull, replace the trigger spring.

He could also add a limb saver to the OEM stock

I've owned a viper pst 4-16x50 and while the glass wasn't great, it definitely will work for 200 yard shots unless low light is a priority. Then a whole different ball of wax is opened into low light optics.

Trigger spring - $10
Limb Saver - $40
Victor Cheek riser - $35

For less than $100, these are significant changes that can be made to a stock tikka and make it feel and shoot much better. Just my opinion though.

You can cut into the flutes and thread.

 

[LeftyWilbury]

my big fat opinion is put the money towards a suppressor. buy the tikka vertical grip. mayyybbee an aftermarket trigger spring (not really necessary). and find ammo it likes and stock up and shoot it.

is a big suppressor stupid looking on a 22" or 24" barrel? yep.
was it a pain in the ass or inconvenient hiking around montana mountains? not really.
did the elk and deer laugh at me and my huge rifle? don't know, they're dead.
and non-trust form 4s for suppressors are getting approved stupid-quick these days.

there are better scopes out there, and better stocks. but if you're sitting on the side of a field watching a deer feed across it, a suppressor would be my first choice for an upgrade.

 

[ElPollo]

Assuming you’re working with the gun you have, which is a really good one:

-You can cut back to 16” (even if it’s fluted) and add a 6-7” can which will get you in the realm of a standard sporter barrel for OAL. Your velocity for factory ELDMs will be more than sufficient at the ranges you are talking about. I have one that I cut to this length.

-Lots of people say they’ve never had a Vortex fail… until they do. If you want to replace it, the Trijicon Accupoint and Huron make durable, dependable, set and forget scopes. You can get the former with a mildot reticle for holdovers if you want that. The latter is a standard reticle and is cheaper. The Sportsmatch rings are super durable and are cheaper than the UM rings. Using either direct mounted to the integral rail just removes a potential failure point. Make sure you clean all your mount screws and loctite the heck out of them.

-The stock, don’t replace it unless it bugs you. The factory stocks are generally good, but some don’t like the low comb. You can add a comb riser if that’s the case for you. Otherwise, I like to open up the barrel channels of the factory stocks to the point where you can’t flex the stock to touch the barrel. Tends to prevent contact problems.

-Trigger springs, adjust the factory trigger down all the way first. This will normally get you a really crisp 2-2.5# trigger. Aftermarket springs can cause issues with light strikes.

-Shoot the shit out of it and get as much blood on it as you can. Spend your money on ammo for practice and fuel and license fees for hunting. What you have will kill, it’s up to you to go have fun with it.

 

[bojangles808]

Trigger spring - $10
Limb Saver - $40
Victor Cheek riser - $35

For less than $100, these are significant changes that can be made to a stock tikka and make it feel and shoot much better. Just my opinion though.

this is what I would start with along with sanding/dremeling out the barrel channel/ribs. there's also kydex comb raisers on ebay for $40 or the the bradley cheek riser if you don't want to drill that'd also work. then id upgrade the scope to a fixed swfa 10x mil (3-400 rear/side fcus) or used/new swfa 3 x 15 mil (550 used/700 new) for around 4-$800 depending on scope you'd hava a much improved and reliable setup. spend the rest on ammo and practice. a suppressor isn't needed

 

[btb1983]

this is what I would start with along with sanding/dremeling out the barrel channel/ribs. there's also kydex comb raisers on ebay for $40 or the the bradley cheek riser if you don't want to drill that'd also work. then id upgrade the scope to a fixed swfa 10x mil (3-400 rear/side fcus) or used/new swfa 3 x 15 mil (550 used/700 new) for around 4-$800 depending on scope you'd hava a much improved and reliable setup. spend the rest on ammo and practice. a suppressor isn't needed

Out of the two scopes you suggest, which would be the best choice. My shots can range from 10 yards to maybe 200 yards.

I just ordered the cheek riser!

 

[JGRaider]

Out of the two scopes you suggest, which would be the best choice. My shots can range from 10 yards to maybe 200 yards.

I just ordered the cheek riser!

Obviously buy what scope you want, but FFP's and MIL reticles for shots out to 200 yds are a waste of time and money. If you're bound and determined to buy a new scope just grab a NF SHV 2-10x with duplex reticle. Sight 1.5" high @ 100 and your golden.

 

[bojangles808]

Out of the two scopes you suggest, which would be the best choice. My shots can range from 10 yards to maybe 200 yards.

I just ordered the cheek riser!

I would just get the rear focus swfa fixed 10x if only shooting that far for $300. It's 20oz, reliable and doesn't break the bank. If you ever wanted another rifle they'd be a great backp scope. The fixed 6x is also popular or those ranges but much harder to find. I had both and prefer a little more mag on our smaller sheep and deer.

 

[sdupontjr]

Trijicon AccuPoint 2.5-10x56 Riflescope TR22-1

Trijicon AccuPoint 2.5-10x56 Riflescope TR22-1 | Only at EuroOptic.com!

www.eurooptic.com

This is tuff to beat for the price point.

 

[StuckoYota99]

I put a cheek riser, nightforce shv, salmon river solutions arcs mount, DA Nomad suppressor. If you have money invest get good glass and a good tripod.

 

[Marbles]

My T3x rifles get cut and threaded (16.5, 16.5, and 17 inches). A AB Raptor 8 is the muffler I use, though for white tail hunting you could get a cheaper, but heavier can and be fine.

Scopes I use are the now unabtainable SWFA 3-9x42 and 6x42 and S&B 3-19x42, and FFP, all mil/mil. Drop your rifle/scope, if it holds zero, stick with it. If it does not, then get something else and sell what you have. Out of available options, Trijicon Credo will be the cheapest that is likely to be reliable. I want a Maven RS1.2.

After a suppressor would come a Rokstok. Though if there is not money for that, then just a vertical grip module. I have one extended bolt handle, I'm not actually sure I like it more than the factory. I have one aftermarket bottom metal, I will add another with time, but only for the "artic" trigger guard for use with gloves. No other reason to replace it to me.

For shooting out to 200 yards, the 6.5 is good enough for practice. A 223 Tikka is tones of fun and cheaper to feed high volume to for building skills. So, if getting another rifle, that is what I would get in your place. Honestly, buy ammo (or a reloading set up, just keep it simple) and get time behind the gun.

Centerfire rifle drop testing: Tikka/SWFA

Edit: Post #65, repeated and passed, and I shoot better now. Keep in mind, I suck at shooting. I got a Tikka 223 recently, had some work done. First zero was over the hood of my truck and a "close enough" type thing not at a range. Since I've hunted with it some. Finally got around to...

rokslide.com

 

[RockAndSage]

"Hello internet car forum for hotrods, I just bought my first factory stock muscle car - what should I do with it for the ultimate in awesome if you were in my shoes?"

That's part of why you're getting answers across the board - lots of enthusiasts with great ideas, that may or may not align with your needs, but most based on good reasoning.

The only thing I'd add for consideration, is to take the first $1000-1500 you were going to use on any gear or mods for it...and take a rifle shooting class.

You will know after that exactly what you need changed, or just want changed, and why. And you'll be a much better shooter for it, much better positioned to evaluate the better investments.

 

[Fireflyfishing]

Man I see some crazy comments. Its a tikka in 6.5 creed that will be shot out to 200 yards. I can do that with a 350 legend.

The original stock is just fine for his application. He may want to free float the barrel but not much else. A victor cheek riser would certainly help with the OEM stock.

If its pre-threaded, go as is. If the barrel is fluted, you're only going to be able to cut back so far. Is that 1-2" really worth the time and $$ to do so.

"If" the OP wants a lighter trigger pull, replace the trigger spring.

He could also add a limb saver to the OEM stock

I've owned a viper pst 4-16x50 and while the glass wasn't great, it definitely will work for 200 yard shots unless low light is a priority. Then a whole different ball of wax is opened into low light optics.

Trigger spring - $10
Limb Saver - $40
Victor Cheek riser - $35

For less than $100, these are significant changes that can be made to a stock tikka and make it feel and shoot much better. Just my opinion though.

I agree with this. If the rifle shoots fine, why dump money into a bunch of machining needed to be done by a gun smith? Just because the scope is a Vortex doesn’t mean it won’t work...at all. If you’re having issues with the scope, replace it. Otherwise, I’d run it until there are problems.

I would ask the OP, what’s wrong with the rifle now? What can’t your rifle do to achieve the objectives you laid out in your original post?

Careful what you ask for on gun forums. Other folks will make recommendations of what they’d like to do if they were spending your money.