Thank you for posting this, I've been trying to figure this out for my T3x Lite Compact. Can you please explain what you mean by "drilling a second hole and connecting the two holes"? I'm trying to understand how you were able to relocate the holes in the Limbsaver Pad to make them align properly with the stock.
Tikka T3X Compact recoil pad?
- Thread starter SDRuger21
- Start date
I missed the notification on this. I’ll try and take a picture when I’m home of the recoil pad. But I’ll try and explain more. If you look at the recoil pad backer plate with the pad sitting top to bottom you need to add/drill a second mounting hole directly below the factory screw holes. Both top and bottom. Be careful as you drill these as the drill bit will grab the rubber recoil pad and catch. This needs to be done so you have more room to slide the pad upwards or higher on the tikka stock. After drilling these two new holes I used a razor knife to connect the factory hole with the new hole I drilled directly below it both top and bottom. Does that make sense?
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Maverick1
WKR
- Joined
- Jun 1, 2013
For those that are interested, I managed to put a Limbsaver pad #10824 for a Ruger American Compact on the Tikka compact stock. Of note, it was not a direct "plug and play" - took a little bit of work but turned out really well. Thanks to @XR357 !
As mentioned by @XR357 the hole patterns on the Tikka compact stock and the limbsaver Ruger American pad do not align. (As a tip, the spacing between the holes on the Tikka compact stock is 80mm. The spacing on the Ruger American pad is different.)
To make this work, what I did was:
1. Order the Ruger compact limbsaver pad from limbsaver.
2. Remove the four plastic nubs on the back of the new recoil pad.
3. Probably not required, but I filled in the existing/factory/stock holes on the Ruger limbsaver pad with JB weld. I used the same technique as one would use to repair a hole in drywall. (Pushed a piece of cardboard down through the hole, and tied to a sewing string held taught, to keep the JB weld from going everywhere or down into the recoil pad too much.) Again, probably overkill, but it worked.
4. I re-drilled the top hole. (Used a 7/32" drill bit.). This went fairly smoothly as plenty of clearance existed from the factory / stock hole to the new hole required to make everything fit. [When I say 'top' hole I am referring to the hole near the top of the recoil pad, if one were to hold it as if it was mounted on the rifle.] As mentioned above, one has to be careful drilling as the drill bit poke through the hard plastic outer shell, then will grab onto the rubber recoil pad and catch. (Kind of like drilling through drywall and into the insulation behind the wall.)
5. I re-drilled the bottom hole. This is where things got a little messy. Because the two holes ended up being so close to one another, the JB weld ended up pulling out. Ended up with kind of a warbled out hole, but it was not that big of a deal.
6. Tightened the top screw through the limbsaver recoil pad and into the stock. This screw was at a bit of an angle, just went slow and made sure to align everything.
7. Tightened the bottom screw.
Note, I did not drill any holes into the soft side of the recoil pad. Only the hard plastic side that butts directly up to the rifle stock.
As you can see from the pictures, the final product turned out alright.
I prefer the limbsaver Airtech precision fit recoil pads over the stock Tikka recoil pads.
This DIY ends up with a limbsaver pad on a compact Tikka stock.
As mentioned by @XR357 the hole patterns on the Tikka compact stock and the limbsaver Ruger American pad do not align. (As a tip, the spacing between the holes on the Tikka compact stock is 80mm. The spacing on the Ruger American pad is different.)
To make this work, what I did was:
1. Order the Ruger compact limbsaver pad from limbsaver.
2. Remove the four plastic nubs on the back of the new recoil pad.
3. Probably not required, but I filled in the existing/factory/stock holes on the Ruger limbsaver pad with JB weld. I used the same technique as one would use to repair a hole in drywall. (Pushed a piece of cardboard down through the hole, and tied to a sewing string held taught, to keep the JB weld from going everywhere or down into the recoil pad too much.) Again, probably overkill, but it worked.
4. I re-drilled the top hole. (Used a 7/32" drill bit.). This went fairly smoothly as plenty of clearance existed from the factory / stock hole to the new hole required to make everything fit. [When I say 'top' hole I am referring to the hole near the top of the recoil pad, if one were to hold it as if it was mounted on the rifle.] As mentioned above, one has to be careful drilling as the drill bit poke through the hard plastic outer shell, then will grab onto the rubber recoil pad and catch. (Kind of like drilling through drywall and into the insulation behind the wall.)
5. I re-drilled the bottom hole. This is where things got a little messy. Because the two holes ended up being so close to one another, the JB weld ended up pulling out. Ended up with kind of a warbled out hole, but it was not that big of a deal.
6. Tightened the top screw through the limbsaver recoil pad and into the stock. This screw was at a bit of an angle, just went slow and made sure to align everything.
7. Tightened the bottom screw.
Note, I did not drill any holes into the soft side of the recoil pad. Only the hard plastic side that butts directly up to the rifle stock.
As you can see from the pictures, the final product turned out alright.
I prefer the limbsaver Airtech precision fit recoil pads over the stock Tikka recoil pads.
This DIY ends up with a limbsaver pad on a compact Tikka stock.
Last edited:
bigsky_hunter
Lil-Rokslider
- Joined
- Mar 30, 2019
- Location
- SK, Canada
From your final picture it looks like finished LOP is 12.75”. Is this correct?
Mine is right at about 12.75” depending on where you measure.
Here is also a couple of pics of the recoil pad I modified. @Maverick1 did a nicer job, but mine works and is simple.
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