Tikka T3 Lite...let's make it lighter!

[Justin Crossley]

That info from your gunsmith was code for he doesn't want to do fluting. Done correctly fluting doesn't induce stress. If you are really worried about it have it stress relieved after fluting. All barrels are fluted after they are bored and rifled or hammered out. Nobody contours and flutes a barrel then bores and rifles it. You need a new gunsmith Justin.

I probably explained it wrong or put it in the wrong order but I'll stick with what he says. He already built one rifle for me which shoots sub .25 MOA.

Also, why would a smith tell you to order the barrel pre fluted instead of charging for the extra machining?

 

[fillthefreezer]

FTF, I shorten the barrels on my rifle mainly cause I'm not a long range shooter so the loss of a 100 fps isn't going to really matter to me at all. The true gain isn't the loss of weight (which is a small fringe benny I guess) but handiness in the field. When its strapped to your pack your carried in your hands a 18-20" barrel is just so much handier in the thick nasty alders/brush. If I lived in CO or the like where alders/brush isn't' as prevalent as say WA, ID, or AK it might make sense to run a 26" barrel for that matter, but for me I have found the small loss in velocity is greatly made up for in less frustration while crashing through alders/brush. A 300WM still still be out running a 30-06 with 4" less barrel IMO and it'd be one handy setup for sure!

thats a good point. i saved the wife at the last second from a tipover that surely wouldve ended like a turtle. her barrel grabbed a limb that she had ducked and with a load that was 79% of her body weight, im sure you know how easy it is to get tipped over

 

[Yellowknife]

I probably explained it wrong or put it in the wrong order but I'll stick with what he says. He already built one rifle for me which shoots sub .25 MOA.

Also, why would a smith tell you to order the barrel pre fluted instead of charging for the extra machining?

Two reasons that I can think of.

1. Most smiths aren't set up to flute barrels.

2. If ordered pre-fluted, then it may be stress relieved after the fluting (depending where the barrel came from), which can only be a good thing.

Also seems a lot of guys are still really skeptical of the whole idea. I'm no gunsmith, but I've seen fluted barrels shoot just as good as round ones, so I'm less concerned about that aspect. If you are going for the 1/4 MOA gun, then yeah... probably best to hedge your bets every way you can.

Yk

 

[HellsCanyon]

Two reasons that I can think of.

Also seems a lot of guys are still really skeptical of the whole idea. I'm no gunsmith, but I've seen fluted barrels shoot just as good as round ones, so I'm less concerned about that aspect. If you are going for the 1/4 MOA gun, then yeah... probably best to hedge your bets every way you can.

Yk

Since you brought it up I'll give some info out on this.
If you have two barrels with the same OD, one fluted, the other non fluted, the non-fluted will ALWAYS be more rigid/stiff.
However if you have two barrels of the same length/weight, one fluted the other non fluted then the fluted barrel will likely be stiffer. That's because the fluted barrel started out as a larger diameter barrel then weight was removed during fluting. For example you can flute a #5 barrel to make it weight as much as a #3 non fluted barrel... (just using these contour #'s as references, don't take this example as absolute fact, depends on the flute type and depth/length).

I've seen some wicked accurate fluted barrels there's really nothing about them to scare people away. Long as it's done by a reputable company and stress relieved then I would feel 100% confident recommending a fluted barrel.


Mike

 

[Floorguy]

Since you brought it up I'll give some info out on this.
If you have two barrels with the same OD, one fluted, the other non fluted, the non-fluted will ALWAYS be more rigid/stiff.
However if you have two barrels of the same length/weight, one fluted the other non fluted then the fluted barrel will likely be stiffer. That's because the fluted barrel started out as a larger diameter barrel then weight was removed during fluting. For example you can flute a #5 barrel to make it weight as much as a #3 non fluted barrel... (just using these contour #'s as references, don't take this example as absolute fact, depends on the flute type and depth/length).

I've seen some wicked accurate fluted barrels there's really nothing about them to scare people away. Long as it's done by a reputable company and stress relieved then I would feel 100% confident recommending a fluted barrel.


Mike

But what if the fluted barrel is shorter?

 

[luke moffat]

But what if the fluted barrel is shorter?

It would depend I'm sure on how much shorter. A fluted barrel and a non-fluted barrel of the same OD like HC mentioned the non-fluted will be stiffer of the same length. That said two barrels either fluted or both non fluted of the same OD and one being shorter than the other, the shorter one will be a stiffer barrel. I am sure there is some magic formula to figure out how much shorter a fluted barrel needs to be to equal the stiffness of a non-fluted barrel of the same OD, but I'm not good with math nor and I over concerned with such things so I'll just go with shortening AND fluting the barrel.

 

[Justin Crossley]

2. If ordered pre-fluted, then it may be stress relieved after the fluting (depending where the barrel came from), which can only be a good thing.

I think this ^ is more what I was trying to say.

My barrel is fluted by the way. It's a Brux #5 contour.

 

[Floorguy]

It would depend I'm sure on how much shorter. A fluted barrel and a non-fluted barrel of the same OD like HC mentioned the non-fluted will be stiffer of the same length. That said two barrels either fluted or both non fluted of the same OD and one being shorter than the other, the shorter one will be a stiffer barrel. I am sure there is some magic formula to figure out how much shorter a fluted barrel needs to be to equal the stiffness of a non-fluted barrel of the same OD, but I'm not good with math nor and I over concerned with such things so I'll just go with shortening AND fluting the barrel.

Meant to add a smiley at the end. You can throw variables at it till your head spins. Lilja had a good article that I read a while back going from 22" to 18" on the same OD increases static stiffness by >90%

 

[Mtnboy]

Now you guys are starting to talk over my head! Ha

I definitely have convenience of carrying/handling in mind as much as the weight loss when it comes to cutting the barrel.

Edit: No sling on this gun, it's either in my hand or in my pack (forgot someone asked about that)

 

[mtnkid85]

Did this project ever progress any? I'd love to see what could be done with these lite tikkas.

 

[Mtnboy]

Not yet, the bolt is getting fluted this winter and the barrel too. Haven't decided on cutting the barrel or not, but I'm leaning towards taking it down 2"

 

[Retterath]

i don't think you will loose that much weight by doing that and i think that going to cost a lot. If you want a super light rifle go titian action with number 2 barrel with medalist stock, yeah you would be spending more money that way but you would also be having a custom rifle. just my .02 Even my doing a titian custom rifle i still don't think there will be much of a difference in weight since those tikkas are already really light.

 

[jm1607]

My gunsmith told me that T3 Lite ss barrels are too thin to flute and that he wouldn't do it.. Anyone else know anymore about this?

 

[luke moffat]

My gunsmith told me that T3 Lite ss barrels are too thin to flute and that he wouldn't do it.. Anyone else know anymore about this?

Really depends on the caliber of rifle you are shooting. A 243 barrel will have a lot more metal to shave away and still be safe than a 338 fed.

 

[Mtnboy]

I've talked to a couple gunsmiths who have told me they can flute and cut the barrel no problem.

Yeah, I'm gonna spend a little money, but it's a lot easier for me to drop $400-500 into a gun I already own than to drop a couple grand on something custom.

 

[jm1607]

Really depends on the caliber of rifle you are shooting. A 243 barrel will have a lot more metal to shave away and still be safe than a 338 fed.

It's a 7mag, he told me no way in hell lol

 

[Yellowknife]

It's a 7mag, he told me no way in hell lol

Did you show him the factory fluted versions? They aren't little dinky cosmetic flutes like the Browning X-Bolt, Kimber Ascent, etc, etc either. Tikka really carved off some steel.

Probably best to just find somebody else though, if that's what you really want.

 

[jm1607]

Did you show him the factory fluted versions? They aren't little dinky cosmetic flutes like the Browning X-Bolt, Kimber Ascent, etc, etc either. Tikka really carved off some steel.

Probably best to just find somebody else though, if that's what you really want.

I figured maybe the superlites came with a different/thicker barrel and then was fluted??

It was Paul @ ProPrecision that told me he couldn't flute it.. He sounds pretty knowledgeable and said he has done a ton of Tikka work in the past so IDK.. He fluted my bolt and did some other work for me so I don't think has any hidden reason not to flute the barrel

 

[Yellowknife]

I figured maybe the superlites came with a different/thicker barrel and then was fluted??

It was Paul @ ProPrecision that told me he couldn't flute it.. He sounds pretty knowledgeable and said he has done a ton of Tikka work in the past so IDK

Negative. I've looked at them side by side. The factory flutes the standard barrel. In .300WM at that.

It is smaller in dia that most gunsmiths prefer to flute, so I'm not really surprised, but the factory seems to think it's ok.

 

[Shrek]

Nothing left to do but go full custom barrel ! A new Manners clear carbon fiber stock and full action flute /lightening .