Tikka Nitriding

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And this is not an issue I’ve ever noticed so… guess it’s not an issue for me. Like I’ve said thrice
Nothing burger, mouse turd et el.
Call it what you want, but it is a common knock on the action, one of very few I must add. The Tikka bolt lift is heavier than other designs. It's not the heaviest (that title might go to the atrocious Remington 770) nor a deal breaker, but I feel it and so do others.

You've made your point. We tried as well. Now let's get back to tossing Tikka actions into salt-bath solutions.
 

atmat

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“Ideal”
Ideal for what?
Bolt opening canting your rifle is not an issue that needs mitigation


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I’m surprised you can’t see that any advantage to staying on target while racking is helpful in hunting situations.

But we both like Tikkas and I’ve said my peace. Cheers.
 

swavescatter

Pain in the butt!
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Is it rough when you cycle it?

Have you cleaned and lubed the bolt?

It’s noticeably rougher than OEM. Feels like it’s microscopically catching a bunch. I wiped everything down to check for debris but I only ever lube the lugs with red grease. Also, the finish on the Ace barrel is noticeably more glossy black than the action. If I didn’t know anything I would guess that the barrel is nitrided and the action was poorly cerakoted or just blued.
 
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wind gypsy
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It’s noticeably rougher than OEM. Feels like it’s microscopically catching a bunch. I wiped everything down to check for debris but I only ever lube the lugs with red grease. Also, the finish on the Ace barrel is noticeably more glossy black than the action. If I didn’t know anything I would guess that the barrel is nitrided and the action was poorly cerakoted or just blued.

Possibly because factory action had a matte finish and barrels are polished?
 

pods8 (Rugged Stitching)

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It’s noticeably rougher than OEM. Feels like it’s microscopically catching a bunch. I wiped everything down to check for debris but I only ever lube the lugs with red grease. Also, the finish on the Ace barrel is noticeably more glossy black than the action. If I didn’t know anything I would guess that the barrel is nitrided and the action was poorly cerakoted or just blued.
Your video has nothing to do with the issue I was feeling on mine, which was hard bolt cocking and that needed some lube specifically in the cocking notch which addressed that issue (in the past that wasn't needed but it was needed on mine after the nitride). As for the rest of the feel run it in/out rack it numerous times and I expect it'll smooth in some, mine did feel a tad sticky in the race initially but feels fine now. Technically if I slowly tip back this action versus a few other tikkas I have those ones the bolt slides back at a lower angle (maybe I just got some nice actions over years cause I've never had a gritty feeling one). But the difference isn't anything problematic in my mind and I expect it'll probably smooth in a bit further, I don't have any issues with how the nitride feels on mine.

There were problems with my order process that were extremely frustrating (and maybe that is coming through from you too right now) but the end product of the nitride feel is fine at the end of the day in my mind.
 

swavescatter

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If the hope is that it smooths out in time to feel OEM, then i consider that a fail. I was expecting it to go from glass (OEM) to buttered glass, but instead got sandpaper.
 

atmat

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If the hope is that it smooths out in time to feel OEM, then i consider that a fail. I was expecting it to go from glass (OEM) to buttered glass, but instead got sandpaper.
I’m sorry man, that’s a bummer.

This is part of why I’m generally against making big changes to a system that already works fantastic. I don’t get the desire to mill into and cut the top off the action, add new surface treatments, replace trigger springs, etc., when those things work flawlessly as is.

It seems like taking a risk for no significant improvement in function.
 

pods8 (Rugged Stitching)

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If the hope is that it smooths out in time to feel OEM, then i consider that a fail. I was expecting it to go from glass (OEM) to buttered glass, but instead got sandpaper.
I get you're frustrated (and if you have other frustrations its easy to amplify your feelings) but try lubing it all and racking it 100 times or such and see what you think. You can always clean it and try running it dry later.

I shot my bolt/pin with dry lube and then used lube on the back of the lugs and cocking notch. The feel on mine is fine. Its not "buttered glass", currently, but perfectly fine feeling.
 

Sundodger

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I am having a stainless Tikka action, bolt, and aftermarket barrel PVD'ed right now. Fingers crossed for good results!

That's another option other than Nitriding.
 

Formidilosus

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It’s noticeably rougher than OEM. Feels like it’s microscopically catching a bunch. I wiped everything down to check for debris but I only ever lube the lugs with red grease. Also, the finish on the Ace barrel is noticeably more glossy black than the action. If I didn’t know anything I would guess that the barrel is nitrided and the action was poorly cerakoted or just blued.

You need to lube the bolt. Oil the outside of the bolt body and back of the bolt lugs- running it dry is not the way.
 

Formidilosus

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Shoot2HuntU
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If the hope is that it smooths out in time to feel OEM, then i consider that a fail. I was expecting it to go from glass (OEM) to buttered glass, but instead got sandpaper.

I’ve used/felt probably 40-50 nitrited Tikkas- all bound less than factory. But all- nitrided or not, need lube.


Fluting, cutting ports, etc= worse.
Nitriding= better function.
 

swavescatter

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I’ve used/felt probably 40-50 nitrited Tikkas- all bound less than factory. But all- nitrided or not, need lube.


Fluting, cutting ports, etc= worse.
Nitriding= better function.

Interesting. I never lube anything other than the lugs on my tikkas and haven’t cleaned them after hundreds of rounds either. Also, the ember I tested in that video is a fluted bolted as well

I guess I’m just the lucky guy that gets all the lemons when I do anything but shoot stock tikkas. I think I’m finally learning my le$$on.
 

Formidilosus

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Shoot2HuntU
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Interesting. I never lube anything other than the lugs on my tikkas and haven’t cleaned them after hundreds of rounds either. Also, the ember I tested in that video is a fluted bolted as well

I guess I’m just the lucky guy that gets all the lemons when I do anything but shoot stock tikkas. I think I’m finally learning my le$$on.

Nitride is a rougher finish lots of times than polished stainless. Oil the bolt and shoot it a bunch. If it still sucks I’ll trade you a stainless one.
 
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pods8 (Rugged Stitching)

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Interesting. I never lube anything other than the lugs on my tikkas and haven’t cleaned them after hundreds of rounds either. Also, the ember I tested in that video is a fluted bolted as well
All I had ever done on my stock tikkas was dry lube on the firing pin and lube on bolt lugs, that is why I didn't realize what was going on with the cocking notch. Which isn't what you are seeing in that video, I just am saying what you've done for a stock tikka might not 1:1 translate (the stock tikka is probably already lubed well unless you chemically stripped it). So I don't think its unreasonable to lube more than you might have expected and then see how it feels.

I haven't found it to be slicker (yet) than my stock actions (I must have good ones?) but as I've repeatedly noted it feels perfectly fine too once the cocking was resolved.

I get it you had high expectations for your rifle build and got a shorter throat than requested and the action doesn't feel like butter so you're frustration level is up there. Lube it and rack it some and see what you think, ideally it smooths out to what you'd expect from a normal action.
 
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I have a feeling that more of the dragging you are feeling is the deep flutes cut into the bolt.

Was the bolt fluted prior to the lightening job you had done?
 
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