Tikka bonded pic rail or direct mount rings?

[Terrapin]

What's the weight on Tikka Medium rail/ring setup?

Just under 4 ounces for the Tikka. A little less for the Howa (3.85) and a little more for the Rem700 (4.1) Short Action.


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[Terrapin]

Make them and sell them. I’ll buy some.

I’m doing these under a new company, and as silly as it sounds, I really don’t want any revenue until after the first of the year. My accountant is a jerk and doesn’t understand things like Christmas money.


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[JohnJohnson]

I went the bonded rail route.

 

[Terrapin]

I like the design of your system. I do not like the fact that the bubble level is centered. Its a deal breaker for me if I have to come out of the scope or move at all to check level. For that reason, offset only, and preferably near the action. Just a personal preference. I didn't see weights listed on your site? May want to consider adding some for interested buyers!

I built some with the level on the side, but I suddenly started missing everything to the right.

Just kidding, I do have scope tops with the level offset to the side. I’m going to have those as an option. I still prefer the level on the top (less snaggy and more protected), but a significant percentage prefer the offset.

Weight on the Tikka is just under 4 ounces. Thank you for reminding me to put that on the webpage.

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[Q_Sertorius]

I’ve always used the UM rings and they have worked for me. Thanks to a clumsy person at my local range, I had a rifle fall ~3 feet off a bench onto concrete. It marred the elevation ring a little, but the SWFA scope and UM rings held zero. I recently removed that scope and rings from the rifle and nothing was bent. That makes me a fan of that system.

I can, however, also see advantages in permanently mounting a picatinny rail to the receiver. What are you folks using to bond it?

PS - as you can see, I currently also prefer the bubble mounted on the rail where I can see it without breaking position.

 

[Brandon.miller.4]

I built some with the level on the side, but I suddenly started missing everything to the right.

Just kidding, I do have scope tops with the level offset to the side. I’m going to have those as an option. I still prefer the level on the top (less snaggy and more protected), but a significant percentage prefer the offset.

Weight on the Tikka is just under 4 ounces. Thank you for reminding me to put that on the webpage.

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Nice to see some people have a sense of humor here!

 

[dårlig jeger]

I like a rail because I love to play musical scopes. I'm addicted to it.

The downside of a tikka rail is that they are all 20moa. I don't shoot enough past 800 yards to warrant the cant. Does it sacrifice scope clarity? Maybe. Maybe not enough to tell.

 

[RancherJohn]

I like a rail because I love to play musical scopes. I'm addicted to it.

The downside of a tikka rail is that they are all 20moa. I don't shoot enough past 800 yards to warrant the cant. Does it sacrifice scope clarity? Maybe. Maybe not enough to tell.

Tikka T3 Standard Action Improved Scope Rail

At Area 419 we decided that there were no scope bases on the market that really met our requirements for quality, so we made our own. Its all in the little details that set this base apart from the competition. These are machined in house on our 4-axis HAAS VMC from 7075 Aluminum. Straight...

www.area419.com

0 MOA Tikka rail with recoil pin

 

[Ajsomp]

Just under 4 ounces for the Tikka. A little less for the Howa (3.85) and a little more for the Rem700 (4.1) Short Action.


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Didn’t know I wanted these. Until now.

 

[Brandon.miller.4]

Just under 4 ounces for the Tikka. A little less for the Howa (3.85) and a little more for the Rem700 (4.1) Short Action.


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Would you be open to sending a set to @Formidilosus for destructive testing? @Formidilosus would you be willing to test these? They look like a solid option

 

[Terrapin]

Would you be open to sending a set to @Formidilosus for destructive testing? @Formidilosus would you be willing to test these? They look like a solid option

Sure, I’d love to have his feedback… especially at this early stage of bringing them to market. It would be super easy to incorporate any changes.

But I gotta admit, I’m guessing he’s pretty busy testing stuff for bigger companies


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[amassi]

I’ve always used the UM rings and they have worked for me. Thanks to a clumsy person at my local range, I had a rifle fall ~3 feet off a bench onto concrete. It marred the elevation ring a little, but the SWFA scope and UM rings held zero. I recently removed that scope and rings from the rifle and nothing was bent. That makes me a fan of that system.

I can, however, also see advantages in permanently mounting a picatinny rail to the receiver. What are you folks using to bond it?

PS - as you can see, I currently also prefer the bubble mounted on the rail where I can see it without breaking position.

Loctite 380 blackmaxx or devcon 10110 for bonding


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[BBob]

In order for the mount to move, it needs to sheer 4 very strong shoulder bolts and sheer solid 3mm diameter 17-4 pins. I’ve been designing and building scope rings for a variety of customers for about 20 years & this is the best system for me…

I like the shoulder bolts a lot. I’ve done similar on Talley lightweights to combat ripping out the thin base material they leave on them. That and pinning.

 

[Lawnboi]

Didn’t they have some disclaimer on the UM rings that they are for about some moderate magnum cartridge level of recoil?

Most mine are sportsmatch or UM rings but I’d think a bonded rail and pic rings would be more robust. I like the ease of swapping scopes around with a pic rail too.

I think that’s just due to the small diameter pins.

I still havnt had any issues with my Spuhr direct mounts, even though everyone told me they would crack in my safe.

I do enjoy the flexibility of being able to move scopes very easily.

 

[GRIZFUR]

There’s a lot of very good direct mount scope systems for Tikka… Unknown Munitions & Sportsmatch jump to mind. I’ve been developing a one piece, direct mount system for five or six years that direct mounts using custom 17-4 H900 shoulder bolts (in order to make the screws as strong as possible). Then we use two tapered screws (also 17-4) that go into the 3mm holes in the top of the receiver. In order for the mount to move, it needs to sheer 4 very strong shoulder bolts and sheer solid 3mm diameter 17-4 pins. I’ve been designing and building scope rings for a variety of customers for about 20 years & this is the best system for me… emphasis on the last two words

There’s a very mediocre video on Facebook showing how it works.

Here’s a quick video showing how the tapered locking screws work on the Tikka Action. After installing the 17-4 Shoulder Mounting Screws “finger tight”, install the tapered locking screws into the action & torque them to ~10 inch-pounds. They will

Here’s a quick video showing how the tapered locking screws work on the Tikka Action. After installing the 17-4 Shoulder Mounting Screws “finger tight”, install the tapered locking screws into the...

www.facebook.com

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I have had an early version/prototype of Terrapin’s product for a couple of years. It currently sits on a fast twist, 16” barreled, Tikka .223. It is a very solid direct mount system.

 

[Lawnboi]

I built some with the level on the side, but I suddenly started missing everything to the right.

Just kidding, I do have scope tops with the level offset to the side. I’m going to have those as an option. I still prefer the level on the top (less snaggy and more protected), but a significant percentage prefer the offset.

Weight on the Tikka is just under 4 ounces. Thank you for reminding me to put that on the webpage.

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Neat design. I’d sell without the level option, that’s what I’d be in on if it if I was a buyer.

 

[Terrapin]

I like the shoulder bolts a lot. I’ve done similar on Talley lightweights to combat ripping out the thin base material they leave on them. That and pinning.

Exactly, I can run a bigger head to spread the load out and put substantially more shoulder material in the sheer area. Four 17-4 shoulder screws with oversized heads & two 17-4 pins (working in unison because it’s a one piece mount) was the most secure solution we could come up with. There is ~.200” thickness of 7075 below the screw head because I’ve seen screw heads tear through the thin web of 6061 that some mfg’s use in that area.


I also have an 8-40 option for those people that want to open up their threads from the factory 6-48… more of a Remington overkill thing than a Tikka.


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[Terrapin]

Neat design. I’d sell without the level option, that’s what I’d be in on if it if I was a buyer.

Great suggestion… if I can figure out how to edit the website… that’s the hardest part


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[Brandon.miller.4]

Excuse my crude phone drawing but id be sold on a design with the level in the bottom left like this.

 

[Ajsomp]

Sure, I’d love to have his feedback… especially at this early stage of bringing them to market. It would be super easy to incorporate any changes.

But I gotta admit, I’m guessing he’s pretty busy testing stuff for bigger companies


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Any chance the offset bubble level is going to be for sale - or as asked above just another standard ring?