Thinkingman
WKR
I just replaced my Deadnutz one-piece with a pic rail and Talley sporting rifle rings.
Only reason I abandoned the Deadnutz is I went from 1" to 30mm.
Only reason I abandoned the Deadnutz is I went from 1" to 30mm.
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You don’t even need a rail to get inclination, I just bed the scope into the rings with the cant that I wantMy view on this is that there is one reason to put a rail on a Tikka - elevation cant. If: You're using a scope with limited elevation travel. You're shooting a lead balloon. You're shooting rimfire. Sure, get a 20 or 30 MOA rail on there. But I don't see a use case for flat rails in the world of known-good Sportsmatch and UM direct dovetail clamp rings with recoil bosses.
I had no idea this could be done stress free. Live and learn.You don’t even need a rail to get inclination, I just bed the scope into the rings with the cant that I want
I would partially agree. I would add that another reason for a rail is for optimum ring spacing.My view on this is that there is one reason to put a rail on a Tikka - elevation cant. If: You're using a scope with limited elevation travel. You're shooting a lead balloon. You're shooting rimfire. Sure, get a 20 or 30 MOA rail on there. But I don't see a use case for flat rails in the world of known-good Sportsmatch and UM direct dovetail clamp rings with recoil bosses.
If you do go the rail route, consider bonding it on so it's not simply held by screws. We like Loctite 380 (black max) but any rubberized cyanoacrylate adhesive (like arrow fletching glue) or bedding compound will work.
-J
The scope is a Trijicon Huron 3-9 X 40. Would this be considered a really short or long tube? Do you think I will have issues with ring spacing/eye relief using the SM direct mounts?I would partially agree. I would add that another reason for a rail is for optimum ring spacing.
UM and SM rings are great, and I use them whenever I don't need elevation and for shorter tubed scopes. Unfortunately, with the direct to dovetail rings, spacing can be limited on scopes with really short or long tubes. Adding a rail ensures maximum ring spacing, which is a scope's best friend, and optimum ER.
I'm not arguing that this won't work, but it does seem like a Rube Goldbergian way to achieve the end result. I figure you are but don't see it in the pics so have to ask: Are you doing front and rear rings?Pretty easy, work out how much cant you want, shim accordingly and do a rough bed.
View attachment 837883
View attachment 837884After that do a full bed of both the back and front rings
View attachment 837885
I don't have experience with that model of scope.The scope is a Trijicon Huron 3-9 X 40. Would this be considered a really short or long tube? Do you think I will have issues with ring spacing/eye relief using the SM direct mounts?
You’ll be fine as long as you don’t mount your scope absurdly far forward or back. I can measure my SM T048 when I get home so you can compare height to UM micro.The scope is a Trijicon Huron 3-9 X 40. Would this be considered a really short or long tube? Do you think I will have issues with ring spacing/eye relief using the SM direct mounts?