gtriple
WKR
Based on the discussion from the Semi-Custom Tikka thread, I want to offer up my tools that I'm no longer using to others to remove their factory barrels and install new ones.
Here's what I've got and the cost to replace:
Wheeler Action Wrench #1 - $80
PMA Gen II Barrel Vise - $87
Bugholes Tikka Internal Action Wrench - $97
Torque Wrench (up to 80 ft-lb) w/ bit - $50
Some leather from Hobby Lobby
Full cost to replace = $314
I think some others might be willing to include go/no-go gauges if needed. If there's other items that are needed, feel free to post below and we can include them all together.
All of the above tools fit into a medium flat rate USPS box and cost about $15 each way to ship to the lower 48. So about $30 roundtrip.
The deal will be that the "buyer" pays shipping from and back to me plus makes a $5 donation to Rokslide to keep the Classifieds free.
If you have good feedback here, I won't charge anything up-front. If you are newer, then you'll need to pay me the full cost to replace prior to shipping then I will refund you once I get the items back.
I'm local to Charlotte, NC and can loan them out locally too.
Added the below queue so I can keep things in order. I'll give people 3 days to follow through and then move onto the next person.
Current Queue of Renters (in order of posting here or pm'ing me):
@bwp
IF YOU BREAK IT, YOU REPLACE IT.
Tools you need for barrel install:
Disclaimer: You use these tools at your own risk. Any damage to your action, barrel, the tools, or any other components are not my liability. I am also not liable for any injuries or damages due to the use of these tools.
Here's what I've got and the cost to replace:
Wheeler Action Wrench #1 - $80
PMA Gen II Barrel Vise - $87
Bugholes Tikka Internal Action Wrench - $97
Torque Wrench (up to 80 ft-lb) w/ bit - $50
Some leather from Hobby Lobby
Full cost to replace = $314
I think some others might be willing to include go/no-go gauges if needed. If there's other items that are needed, feel free to post below and we can include them all together.
All of the above tools fit into a medium flat rate USPS box and cost about $15 each way to ship to the lower 48. So about $30 roundtrip.
The deal will be that the "buyer" pays shipping from and back to me plus makes a $5 donation to Rokslide to keep the Classifieds free.
If you have good feedback here, I won't charge anything up-front. If you are newer, then you'll need to pay me the full cost to replace prior to shipping then I will refund you once I get the items back.
I'm local to Charlotte, NC and can loan them out locally too.
Added the below queue so I can keep things in order. I'll give people 3 days to follow through and then move onto the next person.
Current Queue of Renters (in order of posting here or pm'ing me):
@bwp
IF YOU BREAK IT, YOU REPLACE IT.
Tools you need for barrel install:
- A sturdy workbench
- A pair of vice clamps or 1/2" bolts and nuts
- A very sturdy workbench
- A pair of metal or heavy-duty vice clamps or 1/2" bolts and nuts
- A rubber mallet
- You may need some Kroil or other penetrant
- Fasten the bottom of the vice to your bench and orient the top plate based on the profile of your barrel.
- Insert your barrel into the vice as far as possible. It works best not on a tapered section.
- It is up to you if you want to use the leather or other tape around the barrel. PMA states on their site that the vice won't mar your barrel, but that is up to you.
- Tighten the vice bolts down to a maximum of 40ft-lbs (480in-lbs) per PMA.
- (Optional if removing factory barrel) - spray and soak the barrel threads with Kroil or another penetrant.
- Slide the black, external Wheeler wrench (with the flat parts on the inside) around the action to one of the two flat spots on the bottom of the action. I prefer the one closer to the barrel.
- Snug the wrench bolts up. They do not have to be torqued down hard. Just enough to keep it from rotating.
- Use a rubbermallet and whack the crap out of the wrench handle. I was shocked at how hard I had to hit the mallet to take the factory barrels off. Some are easier than others though.
- If you are removing a non-factory barrel, you can probably just twist it off as long as it isn't Loctited on.
- If you are having difficulty getting the factory barrel off, you can try using a breaker bar on the wrench handle.
- (Optional) - apply an anti-seize to the threads on the barrel.
- Thread the action onto the barrel by hand.
- Insert the internal action wrench all the way into the action.
- Use the torque wrench to torque the barrel to your manufacturer's recommendation. 80ft-lbs (960in-lbs) is what my Proof recommended but check with your barrel manufacturer.
Disclaimer: You use these tools at your own risk. Any damage to your action, barrel, the tools, or any other components are not my liability. I am also not liable for any injuries or damages due to the use of these tools.
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