Thread pattern for Tikka T3x Lite in .243?

[JDBAK]

I recently got a steal on a Stainless T3x Lite (NOT fluted) in .243 and would like to cut it back to 18-19"

What should I get for for thread pattern? I have a Diligent Defense S-Ti, and could mount it with 5/8x24 (direct thread), or use Q Cherry bombs 5/8x24 or 1/2x28?. Right now I use a Trash Panda on ARs (1/2x28) and the Diligent Defense on bolt guns.

Kinda like the direct thread to keep it light, but even then I could get the adapted for 1/2x28 I think.

Thoughts and experiences are welcome.

Thanks

 

[5811]

A titanium hub from DD is like 55 bucks, I think. Easy to swap out and have 1/2" threads without an adapter. It's what I did.

 

[DB29]

The gunsmith I used to cut and thread mine said most factory barrels can only go 1/2, most are too thin to thread at 5/8.

I would go with 1/2 DT.

 

[wind gypsy]

9/16" gives you 0.100" shoulder on a lite contour @ 18" if you want to maximize diameter without building an artificial shoulder. 1/2" gives you more hub adapter options but there are 9/16" options out there too.

 

[HandgunHTR]

This comes up about once a month now.

Just do this:


That is a Tikka T3x barrel cut off at 19" and threaded 5/8-24 with a collar. It will cost you about $25-50 more to do it this way than just having it threaded. You will spend more on a new HUB or muzzle device, and about the same on an adapter. Many of the good smiths are doing this now. Just do it this way and forget about the gadgets needed to make it work if you do it the other way.

 

[5811]

This comes up about once a month now.

Just do this:
View attachment 723053

That is a Tikka T3x barrel cut off at 19" and threaded 5/8-24 with a collar. It will cost you about $25-50 more to do it this way than just having it threaded. You will spend more on a new HUB or muzzle device, and about the same on an adapter. Many of the good smiths are doing this now. Just do it this way and forget about the gadgets needed to make it work if you do it the other way.

25 bucks?! I had no idea everyone was doing it that cheap. That's a great way to go. But....... if you thread all your hunting rifles 1/2", you only need 1 hub at 55 vs doing that for each.

I guess it depends on what you already have threaded and how. I'm definitely not advocating for someone to swap hubs out regularly. Good to know there are multiple reasonable options.

 

[thinhorn_AK]

Have a gunsmith install a permanent 5/8x24 thread adapter and collar. It’s the best way to go.

That picture is of a Kimber Montana and a tikka factory barrel that can now direct thread my 5/8x24 silencers without having to use little adapters or those stupid muzzle device things.

 

[LeftyWilbury]

kampfeld custom. tikka 243 T3x cut down to 20" 5/8x24 w a collar.
$175 and had it back in a week since he's 1 day away from me for UPS/USPS shipping....

 

[JDBAK]

This comes up about once a month now.

Just do this:
View attachment 723053

That is a Tikka T3x barrel cut off at 19" and threaded 5/8-24 with a collar. It will cost you about $25-50 more to do it this way than just having it threaded. You will spend more on a new HUB or muzzle device, and about the same on an adapter. Many of the good smiths are doing this now. Just do it this way and forget about the gadgets needed to make it work if you do it the other way.

That looks appealing. What exactly is it, what’s it called and where do I buy it?

Does it install on a barrel cut and threaded to 1/2x/8?

 

[HandgunHTR]

That looks appealing. What exactly is it, what’s it called and where do I buy it?

Does it install on a barrel cut and threaded to 1/2x/8?

You send the barreled action to Karl Kampfeld and tell him that you would like it cut to 18" and threaded 5/8-24 with a collar. Then get a 5/8-24 thread protector from Downrange Products off of Amazon.

 

[Thinkingman]

You send the barreled action to Karl Kampfeld and tell him that you would like it cut to 18" and threaded 5/8-24 with a collar. Then get a 5/8-24 thread protector from Downrange Products off of Amazon.

I had Karl machine a thread protector for mine.
Not sure if he charged me extra for it but for the quality of the work, I don't mind what I paid.

 

[sdupontjr]

kampfeld custom. tikka 243 T3x cut down to 20" 5/8x24 w a collar.
$175 and had it back in a week since he's 1 day away from me for UPS/USPS shipping....

View attachment 723129

That looks very nice. I wonder how its mounted permanent. Welded some kind of way?

 

[Marbles]

On my 243 Lite; I got 9/16-24 threads at 17 inches, used a Precision Armament adapter ($30) to bring it up to 5/8-24 and rocksett it in place. I got a thread protector from Hughes Precision ($12).

With 9/16-24, 17.5" was the longest you can go and have 0.1" above major thread diameter for the shoulder.

Form says shoulder doesn't matter and has 5/8-24 threads at 22 inches (if my memory serves) on a Lite barrel.

My understanding (as a non-engineer) is that a small shoulder can end up collapsing with use. My guess is frequent removal and installation increases this risk. My guess is that this is more a real issue when talking threads that must be torqued hard, hand tight mufflers don't put that much force on a shoulder (i.e. the 0.1" over major thread diameter is a carry over recommendation from other applications). I also guess that if an adapter is rocksett in place, this gives adequate shoulder and there is no concern for the shoulder of the barrel collapsing. Though, if I was a gunsmith, I would make the standard recommendations too just to avoid being blamed when some goober doesn't thread his can on correctly and gets a baffle strike. As the goober though, I may flout recommendations in the future and roll the dice.

To sum up:
-You are probably ok with 5/8-24 threads at any length.
-9/16-24 threads with an adapter at any length is probably the sweat spot between maintaining should and maintaining steel thickness around the bore.
-1/2-28 with an adapter gives the commonly recommended shoulder at any length, but starts to get pretty thin steel around the bore with anything over a 224 cal.
-5/8-24 threads with a permanent collar is the best looking way to address both steel thickness around the bore and shoulder diameter concerns, but I got looked at like I had two heads when I asked a local smith to do this.
-You will probably be fine with any of the above methods

 

[CBB1]

I’m sure it has been explained clearly somewhere, but what is the concern with 1/2” threads on a .30 barrel? I have a couple and would like to know what to be looking out for. Im shooting a Harvester with a direct thread 1/2” Bravo mount. Is the thin barrel a concern because of barrel wear? Or are we considered that impact will bend/ break the threads at the shoulder?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Marbles]

I’m sure it has been explained clearly somewhere, but what is the concern with 1/2” threads on a .30 barrel? I have a couple and would like to know what to be looking out for. Im shooting a Harvester with a direct thread 1/2” Bravo mount. Is the thin barrel a concern because of barrel wear? Or are we considered that impact will bend/ break the threads at the shoulder?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If they shoot well, then don't worry about it.

Some barrels, particularly with high pressure cartridges, will bell out at the end resulting in a loss of accuracy. The solution, if verified with a pin gauge, would be cut it back past the current threads.

I have read one or two complaints of breaking at the shoulder as well.

 

[5811]

Thread '1/2x28 Threaded 30 Cal Rifles - Suppressor Horror Stories' https://rokslide.com/forums/threads/1-2x28-threaded-30-cal-rifles-suppressor-horror-stories.298053/

I have encountered no technical justification for 5/8 thread. I'd love to find something so I could quit posting in these.

 

[Marbles]

Thread '1/2x28 Threaded 30 Cal Rifles - Suppressor Horror Stories' https://rokslide.com/forums/threads/1-2x28-threaded-30-cal-rifles-suppressor-horror-stories.298053/

I have encountered no technical justification for 5/8 thread. I'd love to find something so I could quit posting in these.

View attachment 734946

Common logical fallacy, lack of evidence is not evidence something is not real. Yes you can probably get away with it, but that doesn't mean everyone does. It only takes one example to show there can be issues, it doesn't matter how many people don't have issues from the "no technical justification" perspective. How many have issues comes into play from the risk/reward perspective. It is one thing to say the risk is low and acceptable, it is another entirely to denie it being a risk.

LRI specifically states they have seen muzzles bell mouth over time with thin walls.

https://www.snipershide.com/shooting/threads/muzzle-break-threads.7009200/
"I had a customer who ended up with a muzzle break due to the threading on his tiny barrel. We took his .595" diameter muzzle and did a 1/2-28 thread with me warning that it might not hold up. He accepted the risk and had no issues for a bit. On a hunting trip he dropped the rifle and the brake hit something breaking the end of the barrel off. So a real break due to a brake. Might be a bit of an extreme situation unlikely for a target shooter but its something to consider."

 

[5811]

Common logical fallacy, lack of evidence is not evidence something is not real. Yes you can probably get away with it, but that doesn't mean everyone does. It only takes one example to show there can be issues, it doesn't matter how many people don't have issues from the "no technical justification" perspective. How many have issues comes into play from the risk/reward perspective. It is one thing to say the risk is low and acceptable, it is another entirely to denie it being a risk.

LRI specifically states they have seen muzzles bell mouth over time with thin walls.

https://www.snipershide.com/shooting/threads/muzzle-break-threads.7009200/
"I had a customer who ended up with a muzzle break due to the threading on his tiny barrel. We took his .595" diameter muzzle and did a 1/2-28 thread with me warning that it might not hold up. He accepted the risk and had no issues for a bit. On a hunting trip he dropped the rifle and the brake hit something breaking the end of the barrel off. So a real break due to a brake. Might be a bit of an extreme situation unlikely for a target shooter but its something to consider."

Firstly, I did not deny that the risk was real, I simply stated that I have not seen technical evidence proving it was, and that I was seeking it.

Secondly, you have committed a common logical fallacy of appeal to authority by quoting someone in the industry who is restating secondhand anecdotal evidence. This is not reliable, as we have no information as to the circumstances as to what broke, how and where, and cannot definitively say that the broken brake threading would not have occurred with 5/8 thread. This is why you cant just quote what some gunsmiths say without real data any more than you can quote what some hunting guides say when they have a preferred caliber/energy for elk.

1/2" threading on 30 caliber rifle barrels has become more and more common. If it was a serious and substantial risk, it would be easily seen in occurrence or test data. Id have no problem admitting that 1/2" threads on 30 cal rifles is a serious risk, I just want to see bell mouth data or measurements, field tests, or at least firsthand anecdotal evidence.

 

[Marbles]

Firstly, I did not deny that the risk was real, I simply stated that I have not seen technical evidence proving it was, and that I was seeking it.

You cited one thread as evidence that there was none.

Secondly, you have committed a common logical fallacy of appeal to authority by quoting someone in the industry who is restating secondhand anecdotal evidence.

No, quoting someone recounting their personal experience in regards to LRI stating that they have seen belling. There is a difference.

This is not reliable, as we have no information as to the circumstances as to what broke, how and where, and cannot definitively say that the broken brake threading would not have occurred with 5/8 thread. This is why you cant just quote what some gunsmiths say without real data any more than you can quote what some hunting guides say when they have a preferred caliber/energy for elk.

There is a difference between "these threads broke" and "this is what I prefer." At this point you are calling someone a liar because you don't like the objective observation that was reported. That is emotional reasoning, not logical.

1/2" threading on 30 caliber rifle barrels has become more and more common. If it was a serious and substantial risk, it would be easily seen in occurrence or test data. Id have no problem admitting that 1/2" threads on 30 cal rifles is a serious risk, I just want to see bell mouth data or measurements, field tests, or at least firsthand anecdotal evidence.

I provided first hand evidence in both cases. I.e. threads I cut broke and "Our experience has shown that a thin wall muzzle has the potential to 'bell mouth' over time."

I never said serious risk. You are creating a straw man and demonstrating an emotional commitment to the idea. I even acknowledged that it works for most people, I never said people should not do it.

You sound like people bashing the drop tests for sample size, or the 223 thread for only being antidotal. On the other hand a simple statement of "the risk is too low to worry about" would be rational.

So, if we want proof, since you have not present any technical data on why the shoulder offered by 1/2-28 threads is superior, please explain why you prefer them over 5/8-24 on you pencil barrels?

There is a difference between presenting available data so people can make there own decision and denying data to push people towards the decision you are invested in.

 

[gman82001]

So now back to a 243 tikka barrel, 1/2x28 good to go? I’ve followed all the links in the thread that went off the .30 rails when it was asking about .243. Just want to make sure it’s ok on a .243 not worried about .30 cal