The official unofficial tikka t1x thread

[JohnB]

I've been having feeding issues with both the 5 and 10 round Tikka magazines shooting Norma Tac-22. I'm assuming they've got too much wax somewhere. Any tricks on how to clean these things?

 

[Packmansion]

I've been having feeding issues with both the 5 and 10 round Tikka magazines shooting Norma Tac-22. I'm assuming they've got too much wax somewhere. Any tricks on how to clean these things?

Ive shot tac22 no issues. I use a bores snake dry to clean.

 

[PBBananaHammock]

What solutions are people using to mount suppressors with ~.4” thread depth on the .5” threads of the Tikka T1x?

I have the 16” barrel, so shortening the threads isn’t an option. My SiCo Spectre II came with a .25” spacer, but that leaves only .25” of thread engagement and a lot of exposed barrel threads inside the suppressor that will collect carbon.

I’m considering using .1” shims/spacers (around .75” OD / .5” ID) to effectively shorten the usable thread length, but I’m concerned they may not be precise enough to properly index off the barrel shoulder.

What are others using to solve this?

 

[Q_Sertorius]

Is that a real problem? I have not paid any attention to that with my Banish 22 and Tikka (or CZ).

 

[PBBananaHammock]

Is that a real problem? I have not paid any attention to that with my Banish 22 and Tikka (or CZ).

Which part? Using the .250 spacer, or bottoming out the Spectre ll?

The spectre ll will not index off the barrel shoulder with threads beyond .4”. An O-ring and shelf inside the can prevent this.

Using the provided spacer will work as long as it has good shoulder engagement keeping it concentric. But it only provides .250” of thread engagement in the can, which isn’t a lot. Also, the way the spacer is designed (without flats) if it gets locked on tight it’s not coming off without channel locks and some possible deformation which would make useless for indexing the suppressor. It’s not like you can cut the barrel any shorter and start over if you can’t get it off.

Again, the spaced can work and is my only current option’s , I’m just wondering if anyones found a better mousetrap.

 

[Q_Sertorius]

Which part? Using the .250 spacer, or bottoming out the Spectre ll?

The spectre ll will not index off the barrel shoulder with threads beyond .4”. An O-ring and shelf inside the can prevent this.

Using the provided spacer will work as long as it has good shoulder engagement keeping it concentric. But it only provides .250” of thread engagement in the can, which isn’t a lot. Also, the way the spacer is designed (without flats) if it gets locked on tight it’s not coming off without channel locks and some possible deformation which would make useless for indexing the suppressor. It’s not like you can cut the barrel any shorter and start over if you can’t get it off.

Again, the spaced can work and is my only current option’s , I’m just wondering if anyones found a better mousetrap.

I’ve just never heard of an issue like this. That’s all. It must be specific to that suppressor?

 

[Lawnboi]

I’ve just never heard of an issue like this. That’s all. It must be specific to that suppressor?

There are a number of suppressors designed for .4” rimfire threads. The first baffle is nearly touching on a Tbac suppressor.

Most of the newer stuff coming out accounts for longer 1/2” threads, but it’s something to be aware of when buying a rimfire can if you have a tikka.

Years ago I was asking the same question on here

 

[PBBananaHammock]

I’ve just never heard of an issue like this. That’s all. It must be specific to that suppressor?

I just learned about this myself. Apparently .4” of length on 1/2x28 threads for 22lr is considered the standard. At least in the US. Of course not everyone follows this.

From my understanding. It has to do with not having too much threaded barrel length inside the can, which can get gunked up and limit your ability to get the can off. I also suspect manufacturers want to make it difficult or impossible for people to thread a rimfire can on an AR, but that’s just my theory.

It was an unfortunate rabbit hole I found myself researching after test fitting the can to my new t1x.

 

[BULLBLASTER]

i took the o ring out of the suppressor (sparrow) and then beveled the end of the threads with a hand file until it cleared the inside of the can.
You could do the same assuming the spectre has the same o ring set up.

 

[PBBananaHammock]

i took the o ring out of the suppressor (sparrow) and then beveled the end of the threads with a hand file until it cleared the inside of the can.
You could do the same assuming the spectre has the same o ring set up.

I think it does have the same O-ring set up… have you noticed any effects from not having that o-ring? And to be clear, even after removing the o ring, you still had to bevel the rifle threads?

I’m pretty sure the o-ring only serves to keep the rifle threads clean. It serves no indexing purpose.

 

[BULLBLASTER]

Yes i had to bevel the threads a little bit. But not much. Just until it tightened to the barrel shoulder.
Havent seen any issue whatsoever not using the o ring.

 

[PBBananaHammock]

Yes i had to bevel the threads a little bit. But not much. Just until it tightened to the barrel shoulder.
Havent seen any issue whatsoever not using the o ring.

I like that option a lot better than the .250 spacer.

I might even look into shaving down that shelf that contains the O-ring instead of beveling the barrel. Since there’s no longer an NFA tax stamp, a replacement 22 suppressor might be cheaper than a replacement tikka quality 22 barrel if there’s a mishap.

 

[BULLBLASTER]

It might clear with just taking the o ring out.

 

[PBBananaHammock]

It might clear with just taking the o ring out.

My god it worked. No beveling required… good call man. Thank you.

I don’t clean this 22 can near as often as I should. Have you noticed any carbon buildup in the channel/shelf that would hold the o-ring which might restrict the barrel from going on and off?

 

[BULLBLASTER]

None at all. I think the metal is very close to the end of the threads and more or less seals the o ring groove up.

 

[PBBananaHammock]

None at all. I think the metal is very close to the end of the threads and more or less seals the o ring groove up.

Well, looking really close with the can base separated from the body, it looks to be making contact the barrel muzzle and the shoulder nearly concurrently. Cant actually tell which it is indexing off of more predominantly… the bevel might need to happen to be safe.

It does look like it would seal itself off between the shelf and muzzle, my concern with the o-ring channel being gunked up with carbon isn’t so much when it’s paired with this rifle, but when I move the can to my mark iv pistol which has the proper .4” thread length and would then expose the channel.

 

[Ackley Disciple]

Didn't know this was a thing. My OCL Titanium fits great... this is in the product description on their website but I didn't understand it until just now:

We also made the mount threads longer to accommodate some of the longer threaded rifle barrels so you can use it without having to use a stupid spacer or shim like you have to use with some other 22 suppressors.