Sudden High Right tear

[jgilber5]

I don't own a press and only have a little bit of tuning knowledge so after having probably messed with my centershot am going to run to the shop anyway, just wanted y'alls take. Bow specs are:
Mathews V3X 29
70#
28"DL
28 in 300 spine easton axis 5mm
125 gr slicktrick vipertrick

Had this bow tuned perfectly two years ago, and held perfect tune thru about march of this year. All of a sudden started noticing poor arrow flight day after day. First shot bareshafts, those hit about 4 inches high but centered at 40 yards compared to BH and field points. Brought out the paper and had a consistent large high and right tear with BH and bareshafts. I was able to eliminate the vertical tear by moving the rest up, and not too far out of spec. The only way I could get the right tear to dissapear however was backing the rest all the way left, to the point that the arrow was clearly pointing several degrees left of centershot on the rest. I moved the rest back to horizontal center, and the only way I could reduce the right tear was by purposely introducing alot of torque in my grip.

I'm sure I'll get it tuned up again with the help of the shop but any ideas on what may have caused this sudden change? I haven't dropped it, and peep hasn't rotated at all.

EDIT moved to a much hotter part of the country this year, not sure if that'd have an impact.

 

[jbelz]

Have you changed strings in the past two years?

 

[jgilber5]

I haven't. Definitely planning on swapping the zebra string for gas strings when they wear out but haven't seen indication of stretch yet.

 

[jbelz]

Could be any number of things, but if you’re going to a shop I’d just make sure they give it a good once over. Two years on strings is a good run, and I’d look for any serving separation or cam timing issues. The heat itself won’t cause a right tear, but if the bow has been left in the truck for an extended period of time, that could cause some weirdness.

Ultimately if you don’t have a press at home you’ll just need to ensure the shop helps you tune it as you shoot it. If they take it in the back and tune it for you, who knows what you’ll end up with.

 

[Marshfly]

I haven't. Definitely planning on swapping the zebra string for gas strings when they wear out but haven't seen indication of stretch yet.

You need new strings. Zero chance a V3X with stock Zebras hasn’t stretched. I bet that will fix your issue.

 

[jgilber5]

Thanks guys. Will definitely start with new strings. Been thinking about getting a press anyway so might just start down the rabbit hole now and go for it

 

[TxxAgg]

I have the same bow. Similar specs

It is very easy to torque. Very easy. I removed the rubber grip and just hold on to the bare metal now. Much better. I was chasing my tail similar to what you describe, and it was just a small breakdown in my form.

 

[Mighty Mouse]

First shot bareshafts, those hit about 4 inches high but centered at 40 yards compared to BH and field points.

Were broadheads and field points hitting together? If so, there's no sense in complicating your life by reverting to bareshafts and paper. 40 yds is pretty far for bareshafts; a very small form discrepancy can cause a significant change in bareshaft POI at that range. Paper and bareshaft tuning are optional preliminary steps; broadheads hitting alongside field points is the ultimate goal for a hunting bow. Also, bareshafts hitting high is equivalent to a nock low paper tear, but you said you were getting a high tear...so something isn't adding up.

If your bow is still meeting spec on draw weight and axle-to-axle length, there's no real reason to suspect cable stretch. Change your string and cables if you like, but it may not be necessary.

 

[CamoPirate]

My Gas strings' serving start separating on pretty much every possible part within a few months; maybe it was just a one off, but for the price on them, I was not impressed.

 

[jbelz]

Thanks guys. Will definitely start with new strings. Been thinking about getting a press anyway so might just start down the rabbit hole now and go for it

Do it!

 

[mod-it]

Bareshaft high but a high/right nock tear does not make sense. Bareshaft high would be a nock low tear. With a high & right nock tear through paper, bareshaft should impact low and left on target, as would fixed BH, in comparison to fletched field point.
A very sudden change would have me first looking at rest timing. Especially if it is a cable driven and using a clamp.

 

[jgilber5]

I have the same bow. Similar specs

It is very easy to torque. Very easy. I removed the rubber grip and just hold on to the bare metal now. Much better. I was chasing my tail similar to what you describe, and it was just a small breakdown in my form.

Very well could be a piece of the puzzle. I may try a few different grips in the future. I do think something else is at play though, I had to really exaggerate alot of clockwise torque (RH shooter) to force that tear away.

 

[jgilber5]

Bareshaft high but a high/right nock tear does not make sense. Bareshaft high would be a nock low tear. With a high & right nock tear through paper, bareshaft should impact low and left on target, as would fixed BH, in comparison to fletched field point.
A very sudden change would have me first looking at rest timing. Especially if it is a cable driven and using a clamp.

Starting to suspect rest timing as well. As i shoot, starting to get black marks on fletching which looks like rest contact. Probably due for new strings anyway so I went ahead and ordered what I need to get set up. Appreciate you all helping me shorten the learning curve! After the move the nearest bowshop is 2 hrs away so might as well learn for myself.

 

[5MilesBack]

Always mark everything once you get your setup perfectly tuned. Then it's easy to see if cables stretched etc and the marks are off. Generally if my marks are still good, it's either me or rest timing. Thank goodness it's generally rest timing at that point.....LOL.

 

[nubraskan]

Check the strings, replace if they're worn. If not, just make sure your broadhead tune is good and don't worry about the paper tear.

 

[jgilber5]

Thanks again to the folks that posted here. Went with a synum portable press and built a drawboard from scratch, bow is all put together with new strings and cables, and with a little timing adjustment is back to driving tacks. Glad I decided to go the route of doing it myself, now I feel like I could tackle anything short of damaged limbs or bow components at the truck rather than driving to a shop. Well worth it