Stocky’s Hunter VG Tikka stock

[lak2004]

Not enough texture
Really should build up the vein with 2 part epoxy or flex seal then paint for final effect


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You guys are killing me!

 

[Dobermann]

Really hoping this flash new carbon stock gives me better groups than that rubbish factory stock ...

View attachment 610133

That flyer though ....

 

[Dobermann]

Not sure thats a good idea, if it’s too accurate they won’t even notice your second and third shots into the same hole!

And to think that 'group' was actually two groups of two different ammo during sighting in ... yep, Tikkas just aren't accurate, and are picky amount ammunition.

 

[Dobermann]

That looks good and shoots REALLY good. The camo paint over the top of your bed liner will probably reduce the shoulder issue. I painted mine right over the bed liner and it’s not peeling thus far. I used a natural sponge to apply two colors of the rustoleum camo paint and then added three coats of matte clear coat to seal.

On mine so far, where the shoulder was less pronounced, the Rustoleum camo has smoothed it out. But where the shoulder was more pronounced / truck bed liner was thicker, there's a bit of a black line. Might just be the angle I was spraying on though ...

I have an aesthetic allergy to the sponge method (although I like yours!), so am using stencils ... so I can't just easily sponge over it now ... will see how it goes and post final results here soon.

 

[MedServ60Driver]

Thanks to a fellow rok slider we’re almost done with the inlet for the ctr bottom metal. We’ll be working on the barrel channel next.

I await with baited breath!

 

[fwafwow]

223. I’ve shot it, and am inclined to open the barrel channel but not otherwise do much until the RokStock is available. Unless the wait and my impatience win.

My impatience is winning. I've shot and am building up ammo. The vertical grip is on the way. I'm also looking at different bottom metal, as I know that when I torque the OEM tighter, my luck will result in a pull through. Also the new BM will work with the RokStock.

 

[ElPollo]

My impatience is winning. I've shot and am building up ammo. The vertical grip is on the way. I'm also looking at different bottom metal, as I know that when I torque the OEM tighter, my luck will result in a pull through. Also the new BM will work with the RokStock.

The metal floorplate is just heavier and colder in winter. Why fix something that isn’t broken?

 

[fwafwow]

The metal floorplate is just heavier and colder in winter. Why fix something that isn’t broken?

How much heavier? I’m not trying to save weight, and the cold for me isn’t an issue. I also want to increase the torque without fear of pulling through and having to ask on here (or search) for a replacement.

 

[Jimbee]

How much heavier? I’m not trying to save weight, and the cold for me isn’t an issue. I also want to increase the torque without fear of pulling through and having to ask on here (or search) for a replacement.

I took a propane torch and heated up 6mm washers and melted them into the top side of the factory, plastic bottom metal. I don't think it was necessary as I've torqued a few to 65 in lbs without anything going bad. I just like to fix things that aren't broken.

 

[fwafwow]

I just like to fix things that aren't broken.

While there are plenty on here who have said they got to 65”# in OEM, there have been a few (including recently) who didn’t. I’m guaranteed to fall into the latter category. I’m prone to breaking things that aren’t broken. So getting an after market BM has very little downside to me. I can always switch back and the Desert Metal and others seem to sell pretty quickly in the RS classifieds, as long as I don’t pick some horrible pink color.

 

[HandgunHTR]

Well, I couldn't wait for the RokStock, so I put my order in for a current VG2 (no finish). I will paint it up when it gets here and put it on the .338 Sherman Mega to replace the B&C stock. The B&C is a brick. Not sure what I will do when the Manners I ordered is finally finished. Probably put it on the 6.5 Creed and then order a couple of RokStocks for the other Tikkas I will be obtaining.

 

[ElPollo]

I took a propane torch and heated up 6mm washers and melted them into the top side of the factory, plastic bottom metal. I don't think it was necessary as I've torqued a few to 65 in lbs without anything going bad. I just like to fix things that aren't broken.

I don’t know exact weights but aluminum is heavier than plastic. I’ve been torquing my factory stocks to 65”# and have not broken the three I’ve dealt with over the past 5 years. My Stocky’s VG 2 hunter felt a little smushier so I stopped at 60”#. So far so good. Point was don’t assume you are going to have problems before they happen. And polymer is not necessarily a bad thing. You bought a Tikka because of its reputation. Trust the reputation.

 

[Jimbee]

I don’t know exact weights but aluminum is heavier than plastic. I’ve been torquing my factory stocks to 65”# and have not broken the three I’ve dealt with over the past 5 years. My Stocky’s VG 2 hunter felt a little smushier so I stopped at 60”#. So far so good. Point was don’t assume you are going to have problems before they happen. And polymer is not necessarily a bad thing. You bought a Tikka because of its reputation. Trust the reputation.

Yeah, I just figured something in the gap between the stock and polymer bottom metal wouldn't hurt anything. Both tikka/Stocky's combos my son and I are going to use elk hunting passed our drop test.

 

[Mountainrancher]

Yeah, I just figured something in the gap between the stock and polymer bottom metal wouldn't hurt anything. Both tikka/Stocky's combos my son and I are going to use elk hunting passed our drop test.

After mine pulled through at 60 in/lbs I actually looked at the design and it’s pretty stupid in my opinion to have the gap between the washer the screw goes in and the stock. They may have some reason for it but I don’t know what it is. I made a spacer out of a bronze bushing I had that was 1/4 inch id 3/8 inch od and it seemed to work about perfect.

 

[Jimbee]

After mine pulled through at 60 in/lbs I actually looked at the design and it’s pretty stupid in my opinion to have the gap between the washer the screw goes in and the stock. They may have some reason for it but I don’t know what it is. I made a spacer out of a bronze bushing I had that was 1/4 inch id 3/8 inch od and it seemed to work about perfect.

It looks like someone could build a drop in pillar the correct diameter and lengths. I thought about trying to cut a couple short pieces of arrow that would keep the bottom plastic from caving in

 

[sndmn11]

The big differences are probably where one can't see.
View attachment 588100

Found time to sponge duracoat some nonsense onto this thing. I think some misting from the airbrush and the sponge takes away the slick and gives a tiny bit of grip.

 

[Dobermann]

Anyone else starting to think that, while carbon fibre once looked slick and cool, it now looks boring?

 

[Formidilosus]

Anyone else starting to think that, while carbon fibre once looked slick and cool, it now looks boring?

It never looked cool, always slick. It feels as cheap as bad plastic when not painted.

 

[Dobermann]

It never looked cool, always slick. It feels as cheap as bad plastic when not painted.

Gotcha. Mine's almost finished, but I'm finding so far that the layers of paint are also deadening the 'tinny' noise of the stock somewhat. Note that this is just dry handling while painting, and mine is a Hi-Tech, which is apparently similar to, but not the same as, Stockys.

 

[Formidilosus]

Gotcha. Mine's almost finished, but I'm finding so far that the layers of paint are also deadening the 'tinny' noise of the stock somewhat. Note that this is just dry handling while painting, and mine is a Hi-Tech, which is apparently similar to, but not the same as, Stockys.

Paint helps a bunch.