Shopping my first "nice" rifle

[Neckbone]

Short history: Got into the western hunting scene 2019 with a WY general elk tag (first application ever submitted, drew with zero points). Not wanting to bring my dear old dads 1970s M77 .308 (sentimental value RIP), with little research I purchased a Savage 110 Apex Storm in 30-06 that came with a Vortex crossfire 2. Took it to the range a few times and went hunting. Was able to get and fill 2 doe antelope tags that year as well as kill a bull at 78 yards... frontal shot that dropped him where he stood..

Anyway, the point of the thread. 3 mule deer hunts later (2/3 successful) and now I'm wanting to upgrade my shooting iron. I am a bit torn on which way to go..

First thought process: Get an ultralight deer/antelope rifle. Sub 6 pounds, low recoil, longer range capable (meaning 400-500yd to me). Had it in my head I want a muzzle brake to keep recoil super low. (6.5 creed perhaps). I've spent a lot of time shooting the -06 and want to see how it would feel shooting something with far less kick...thought I had made up my mind

Then I got to thinking...in the coming years when I draw elk tags, I'm not going to want to reach for the heavy ole 30-06 and leave my new fancy rifle at home.. So maybe I should lean more towards a do it all cartridge.. something between the 6.5 and the 30-06. Noticeably less recoil (braked) but still a solid round for elk. I know a 6.5 has killed elk but I like the idea of a more substantial round for the larger game like that..

Then I get to reading the pros and cons of muzzle brakes with the concussive blast and the absolute need for ear pro....I start considering suppressors (which would decrease recoil, but not nearly as much as a brake from what I've read)

I know I'm rambling here... I guess my goal is to get a nice rifle, very light weight, long range capable, noticeably less recoil than the 30-06, and capable of killing anything from antelope to elk out to 500 yards. $2500 budget max. Have my eye on the savage 110 ultralight (carbon barrel, threaded muzzle, ready to roll) Tikka t3x superlite (No threaded barrel tho, stock is meh, over 6 pounds) Howa superlight (so so light, cant find one locally to fondle).

Anyone want to drop some pearls of wisdom?

 

[Highvoltage1]

Lightweight and long range don’t go together well. If you want a true long range rifle I think you might consider 9+ lbs, easier to shoot accurately. My saum is 9.5lbs loaded and it’s a dream to shoot.

Caliber consideration is important. If you want less recoil than 3006 you’re going to have to look at something like 260 rem, 7mm08, 6.5 prc, 270, little more thump 280ai, 270wsm, 7prc, 7mag.

Rifles… brownings, tikkas, seekins, savage all shoot. Pick what feels good and continue putting meat in the freezer. Best wishes

 

[nubraskan]

6.5 PRC might check some boxes for you, it's basically just a magnum 6.5 creed. Some people would argue it's marginally sized for elk, but I've taken elk with it and so have a lot of others without issue. I have a 24" carbon barrel Bergara build that weighs just under 9 lbs all in. Plenty light enough for backcountry hunts with enough weight to shoot comfortably and accurately. I'm running a brake due to the long barrel length, but suppressors are very nice both for your ears and to help prevent game from spooking after the first shot.

 

[MoeFaux]

I've been a similar quest lately. I personally don't care much about muzzle devices, so threaded barrels weren't a concern, but I've also been searching for my ideal light-ish bang-for-buck do-all western hunter. I narrowed the calibers down to a small list: 6.5 PRC, 6.8 Western, 280 AI, 7mm Rem Mag. (I assume most would choose 7mm PRC over the 7 RM, but I'm already set up for the RM.) To me, that's the goldilocks zone of enough gun to do the job well without punishing recoil. 6.8 and 280 ammo are more rare and more expensive if you're shooting factory ammo.

You'll find lots of love for that Tikka T3x on the forum. I really fell in love with the Browning X-bolt Pro once I learned you can find them at nearly half of MSRP on GunBroker. I think the lightest I've seen them is about 6 lbs 4 oz, but that's only on the shorter barrel SPR models. I'd personally carry two ounces more to have a 22 or 24 inch barrel.

 

[Neckbone]

Thank you for the replies so far! Should have mentioned before, I wont be doing any reloading, so ammo availability and cost is a consideration. No big deal spending an extra $10-15/box, but I don't think I am a candidate for any exotic rounds

 

[Neckbone]

Lightweight and long range don’t go together well. If you want a true long range rifle I think you might consider 9+ lbs, easier to shoot accurately. My saum is 9.5lbs loaded and it’s a dream to shoot.

Caliber consideration is important. If you want less recoil than 3006 you’re going to have to look at something like 260 rem, 7mm08, 6.5 prc, 270, little more thump 280ai, 270wsm, 7prc, 7mag.

Rifles… brownings, tikkas, seekins, savage all shoot. Pick what feels good and continue putting meat in the freezer. Best wishes

Your first sentence strikes a chord. There is a trade off for everything...no one wants to lug a heavy rifle up hills, but its sure nice when you settle in for a shot..

Being in FL I don't have very easy access to true long range stuff on a regular basis. I would like to reliably reach out to 400 yards.. That is long range to me, probably not long range in the broad scheme of things.

 

[Neckbone]

6.5 PRC might check some boxes for you, it's basically just a magnum 6.5 creed. Some people would argue it's marginally sized for elk, but I've taken elk with it and so have a lot of others without issue. I have a 24" carbon barrel Bergara build that weighs just under 9 lbs all in. Plenty light enough for backcountry hunts with enough weight to shoot comfortably and accurately. I'm running a brake due to the long barrel length, but suppressors are very nice both for your ears and to help prevent game from spooking after the first shot.

I'll definitely look into that.. I'm opening up to the idea of a suppressor now that they dont take a lifetime to get. They are more expensive, longer, and reduce recoil less... but as you said, dont spook game as bad and way better on the ears

 

[Stearinlys]

Why not 6mm? Lots of evidence of them being effective on big game regardless (not to mention the 223) of its size. Can be light and still have low kick.

 

[Jsmalls273]

Good suggestions that will be echoed! Personally I vote the 270win as a great do everything cartridge. Classic, fast, less recoil that your 06, plenty of factory offerings and perfect for your range goals.

Sent from my SM-S921U using Tapatalk

 

[hereinaz]

Case size is 100% dependent on how far you want to shoot.

The difference in wounding between a 6.5 PRC and 6.5 Creed at 100-600 yards is minimal (assuming same bullet). And, at 600+ the PRC is now like a 6.5 creed.

The difference in wounding between a 6.5 creed and 6 creed with same bullet type is minimal. The 6 creed has more velocity so inside 100-400 is essentially the same but with slippery high BC bullets the 6 creed is closer to 6.5 PRC for ballistics.

I went from 7mm short mag to 25 short mag after blowing up a Coues deer at 730 yards with my 7mm. I don’t need the extra recoil. I still have both, and my 7 continues to kill out to 1100 (if conditions align). But, I only carry my 7 mm on occasion, it kills more cause I loan it out than because I carry it.

I practice long range shooting in the field, a LOT. Unless you do, 600 is a good limit.

Inside 600 yards, a 6 creed is the best rifle for elk or anything else with a “match type” bullet.

I carry a small 22 BR for my “short range” gun to kill inside 650-700z.

All that to say, you can get any one of your calibers, they are all gonna kill if you hit the target. So, the key is getting the bullet on target and recoil is the number one enemy to consider at this point.

Of them all, 6.5 PRC if you think you need a big gun. But, I recommend smaller obviously. Listen to the EXO podcast, Steve killed moose and caribou with his 6 creed.

If you feel like you want something more, get it, but you already know what it is like getting pushed around by the 06.

100% buy a suppressor. Then, you will plan to buy a second.

Howa makes good rifles and they are my choice for factory rifles. I would consider a barreled action and a Stockys VG Hunter stock.

Tikka cut and thread is solid.

A Seekins Element in 6 creed would be my suggestion if you spend big bucks. Look at the warranty.

Savage Ultralight with a Stocky’s is solid. A buddy carries a 280ai suppressed that hammers.

Basically, with modern manufacturing, most factory rifles are gonna shoot good and last you.

 

[Pharmseller]

7mm-08 fits the bill well.

I can’t offer manufacturer suggestions, I’m a Tikka guy.





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[Razor100]

Same boat as you. I thought about my use case though and decided a regular weight do all rifle with a full size full feature scope best served my needs versus chasing light weight with an 36mm scope or long rangewith a 50/56mm scope. I think the savage 110 ultralight checks a lot of boxes now that McMillan makes a stock for them. And if you already have a bunch of 30/06 ammo that would be my pick it does everything well world wide.

 

[hereinaz]

Same boat as you. I thought about my use case though and decided a regular weight do all rifle with a full size full feature scope best served my needs versus chasing light weight with an 36mm scope or long rangewith a 50/56mm scope. I think the savage 110 ultralight checks a lot of boxes now that McMillan makes a stock for them. And if you already have a bunch of 30/06 ammo that would be my pick it does everything well world wide.

I can agree with that. I hunt long range with a 4-14 x 44 scope.

My buddy has an ultralight with the Stocky’s and a Burris XTR III ( a heavy scope) and it is still nice to carry.

 

[StupidLightweight]

6mm Creedmoor is my vote. Buy the best rifle you can afford.

 

[nubraskan]

Why not 6mm? Lots of evidence of them being effective on big game regardless (not to mention the 223) of its size. Can be light and still have low kick.

I've been playing with the idea of running a 6mm myself (creed, or possibly prc).

Exo gear made a nice video about Steve's 6mm build, including why he went that direction

 

[Stearinlys]

I've been playing with the idea of running a 6mm myself (creed, or possibly prc).

Exo gear made a nice video about Steve's 6mm build, including why he went that direction

I'm in the same boat. I currently have a .243 and 30.06, but am deciding between a fast twist 243 or 6 creed. Maybe even AI the 243 to get the speeds up to run the 109's

 

[2Stamp]

Some good recommendations listed above. One thing, if you are considering more western hunting, I'd check the Regs on states you wish to hunt and see if there are any caliber/ weight minimums. For instance, WY has two different minimums listed for deer/pronghorn (.22/ 60gr excluding .22 hornet) and Elk and other (.24). Just something to consider. I haven't looked into any of the other western states.

 

[eric1115]

I'm in the same boat. I currently have a .243 and 30.06, but am deciding between a fast twist 243 or 6 creed. Maybe even AI the 243 to get the speeds up to run the 109's

I got a factory 8 twist T3x .243 rechambered to .243AI, and if I were doing it over would probably sell the factory barrel and order a 6CM prefit. The AI is sweet. Looks super sexy (which we all know looking cool is the most important part). I like not having to trim brass. But dies are a pain and expensive (admittedly I got a little stupid with dies and spent way more than I needed to). Good brass is available again (or was last I checked) but for a while good .243 brass was tough to get.

6CM gives up probably 100-200 fps to the .243AI. It's the easy button in terms of brass, dies, factory ammo.

I was searching for a "goldilocks" cartridge to get long barrel 6CM performance out of a short barrel and I think I have it. I'll almost certainly get another .243AI barrel now that I have stuff sorted out and dies and all that, but in hindsight it was a lot of squeeze for a little juice. But that juice is very tasty.

Edit: to make this relevant to OP, I built this gun as a "do it all, Western long range deer/elk/pronghorn/bear/whatever" rifle to replace a 7mmRM that I loved to shoot as long as I was wearing double ear pro. Field use, others at the range, with my kids, all sucked big time. Not one regret, wish I'd done it sooner. .243AI, Rokstok, 19" barrel and suppressed. Zero hesitation recommending this or something close to it as a do everything western rifle.

 

[Samson7x]

I went with 6.5PRC for a similar use case. Seekins element is very light and easy to shoot it well at 700yds which is the max distance at my range.

 

[ElPollo]

There is lots of love here for the 6 creed, but if you decide to go the Tikka route they don’t offer it. They do offer an 8” twist 243 which will do fine with 95 gr Winchester ballistic silvertip factory ammo on anything you intend to shoot. My personal view is that Tikkas are the best designed and most reliable push-feed action available, they have one of the best factory triggers available, and have some of the best barrels of any factory rifle under $1k. Don’t bother with the fancy versions. Buy the standard T3x lite. Have it cut to 18-20” and threaded, and by a good suppressor. Then scope it with something from SWFA, Trijicon, or a Maven RS1.2 and the Sportsmatch TO84 rings. Get a scope that is in miliradians, not MOA, and first focal plane if it’s a variable. Look up quick drop and wind brackets on this forum and learn to use them. Then go shoot it.