Sharpening knives?

[Jimbuck]

I'd also checkout Tormek. I picked one up several years ago and it's turned sharpening from a chore to something I enjoy. I use it on axes, woodworking tools, knives, shears etc. Awesome machine.

 

[emwhyr0hen]

Very cool thanks for sharing

 

[Cappy1099]

Ken Onion Worksharp…

The only way to go. You may not get a mirror finish but 5 ish swips per side and your done.

 

[Idaboy]

Get the 3 stone standard sharpening system with Coarse, Medium, and Fine stones. Buy an Ultra Fine stone and a Medium Diamond stone also.
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Get the Super C Clamp as it is a must have. Makes it faster, safer, and much easier sharpening knives.
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Last thing to get is replace the standard/Phillips head screw in the blade clamp with a Hex head screw and get an Allen wrench to fit the screw as shown below. Get the same length & diameter obviously as the screw that comes in the kit but just with the Hex head on it. Get an Allen wrench to fit the screw and put that into your sharpening kit for snugging the blade clamp. Get a couple of the screws, nice to have an extra. Then get a couple Hex head screws but just the next length longer. Sometimes on thicker blades the longer screws come in handy so you can manipulate the blade clamp to get the most bite/holding power on the knife blade. You'll figure it out once you get the system. The Allen wrench makes it a lot simpler and easier to use the system and the wrench fits easily in the kit when not in use. Way more so than a stubby screwdriver. Get all of this and start sharpening.
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A first time knife that I have never sharpened before and so it doesn't have perfect edges on it takes me about 25-35 minutes on average to get to an ultra razor sharp edge. Knives that I have sharpened previously and take care of and aren't in bad shape take at most about 10 minutes to 15 minutes to get to where the edge is perfect in my mind at least.

What Angle are you using for benchmade S30V, like saddle mount skinner or hidden canyon knife?
thanks!

 

[6mm Remington]

What Angle are you using for benchmade S30V, like saddle mount skinner or hidden canyon knife?
thanks!

25 degrees is what Lansky suggests for most hunting knives, EDC type, etc., but 20 would work also. I would take a black marker and mark just the cutting edge in the middle of the blade on both sides for about 2". Get the blade all set in the clamp as you want it nice and snug, and then with a dry stone lightly stroke a few times over the inked area using the 17 1/2 degree guide. If it just removes the ink on the top of the edge then try 20 degrees. If that removes most of or all of the black marker that's what Benchmade used and I would just stay with that. If 20 degrees still leaves black on the cutting edge closer to the very pinacle of it then try the 25. That should be your angle you use.

I have some hunting and pocket knives at 20 degrees, and some at 25. Both seem to work very well. A 25 degree angle will not be as prone to chipping the blade as the edge is shorter and a tiny bit thicker. Hope this helps. I'm no expert but this does seem to work for me.

 

[Idaboy]

Great advice, thanks 6mm!

 

[Idaboy]

Not to hijack thread but Curious too what people use to assess "sharpness"? Seems like alot of opinion, and technique could impact perceived sharpness..probably also have to test all sections/portion of blade...when you complete the process what are you checking?

 

[6mm Remington]

Not to hijack thread but Curious too what people use to assess "sharpness"? Seems like alot of opinion, and technique could impact perceived sharpness..probably also have to test all sections/portion of blade...when you complete the process what are you checking?

Light paper strips such as what are in your wifes mail catalogs for clothing and such are great to test sharpness and to see if any spots on the blade edge were missed or need more work. Same with the light paper in Fish & Game regulations. I cut up the old ones into strips to use to test sharpness. You make not see it but when slicing the paper you can tell if it's sharp in several ways. When it's really sharp the sound will be less made by the slicing with the knife, it will feel smoother as you cut, and if there are any nicks in the blade you will feel the blade catch on the paper. You just check the blade under light while turning it sligtly and you will then be able to see where the issue is.

 

[intunegp]

Not to hijack thread but Curious too what people use to assess "sharpness"? Seems like alot of opinion, and technique could impact perceived sharpness..probably also have to test all sections/portion of blade...when you complete the process what are you checking?

Smoothly cutting and slicing receipt paper along the entire length of the edge is a good indicator and will show you if there are any spots that aren't quite as sharp as the rest. There's also the old classic, shaving arm hair, with and against the grain. A really sharp edge will "tree top" hair, cutting hair without any contact with the skin. You can also get into hair splitting/hair whittling with a really sharp edge. All of this is obtainable with basic sharpening tools and good technique.

 

[Wildone]

I have found that the paper test will help you understand if you have fully removed the burr not really a sharpness test. A smooth clean slice with little effort says that you did. If it is a little grabby go back to the strop some more. Removing the burr completely will help with edge retention. Sharpness has varying levels from a decent working edge to hair whittling. For most edc a hair shaving/popping edge is more than sufficient for most people and easily attainable with good steel, diamond stones, and a strop or 2 in very little time. What I see most often is failure to maintain the edge once you have it resulting in more time on the stones or cheap steels. If you use your knives a lot you should be able to tell when it needs a touch up pretty easily. If you don’t use them a lot you typically find out it’s dull when you need it right now.

 

[Bama67]

I can get my knives razor sharp on stones but I can never do what some people claim, like fully process a deer and the knife still be shaving sharp.
This is despite relatively good steel. I think I sharpen mine at too steep of an angle.

 

[Wildone]

I don’t think you are alone. That is asking a lot to go from the field to freezer ready with just one knife without a touch up. Gutting, skinning and breaking it into pieces is all I ask of super steels . Once I get to the table I break out the Forschners or Dexters and hone them as needed during the butchering process. For me a hunting knife is not a butchering knife. There is really no flex in the hunting blades. I can do a whole deer that’s on the table with an 6 inch Forscner 40450 and honing on a diamond stick as I go.

With all that being said I’m a little biased. I cut thousands of pounds of fish every year with Forscners and Dexters so it is what I am familiar with. Never saw a butcher shop or fish monger with a table full of S110v knives either though.

 

[eddielasvegas]

I'd also checkout Tormek. I picked one up several years ago and it's turned sharpening from a chore to something I enjoy. I use it on axes, woodworking tools, knives, shears etc. Awesome machine.

Which model? I see a few available.

THanks,

Eddie