Savage 110 ultralight (proof barrel)

[Jfjfrye]

Is that 7 pounds 7oz or 7.7lbs (7lbs 11oz). From my quick calculations of the the vx5 listed weight and the ultralite's listed weight, it should come in a 7lb and 7oz although that's not factoring in rings which could be 3-4 oz

7.70 my scale doesn’t do lbs and once’s. It’s a fishing scale. So yes 7.11 I have Talley mounts and a Spartan bipod adapted mounted upfront. So that could account for some. Wether it adds up or not base on specs. It’s definitely what my rifle weighs. Also I do not have a muzzle break. That’s the other area I could see a slight variation in the weight.

 

[adamsls1809]

Has anyone had issues with cycling or gumming of cycling the bolt?

Furthermore- anyone strip the rear trigger guard screw after breaking down and them re-installing and have to epoxy and retap like myself?

 

[TheHammer]

Has anyone had issues with cycling or gumming of cycling the bolt?

Furthermore- anyone strip the rear trigger guard screw after breaking down and them re-installing and have to epoxy and retap like myself?

Is the side of the lug on the inside (left side if right handed, right side if left handed) catching and scoring the lug? I have not seen a rear trigger guard screw strip out on an accustock, usually it’s the plastic trigger guard breaking and guys installing stainless or matte black steel units.

 

[505Wapiti]

Has anyone had issues with cycling or gumming of cycling the bolt?

Furthermore- anyone strip the rear trigger guard screw after breaking down and them re-installing and have to epoxy and retap like myself?

I’ve experience none of the issues you described, not sure how stripping the rear trigger guard screw would happen. The only thing I did change on mine was I put in a Kinney’s enhanced extractor/ejector kit after I first got it. Got rid of the MB and shoot suppressed now. Super quiet, super accurate, and my boys love it.

 

[Jfjfrye]

Has anyone had issues with cycling or gumming of cycling the bolt?

Furthermore- anyone strip the rear trigger guard screw after breaking down and them re-installing and have to epoxy and retap like myself?

The rear trigger guard screw happened to me. It was stripped when the gun was new. The cheap ass plastic stock that the steel screw is threaded into is the problem. I replaced the stock altogether because it’s the absolute worst stock on any $1500 gun made. Cheap ass crap.

As far as the action goes the only issue I ran into after about 150 shots was the trigger spring. Had to replace it with a new one because sometimes it wouldn’t reset after cycling and couldn’t put the safety on. Or pull the trigger.

 

[KTHC]

I know I'm late to this thread but thinkin about purchasing this rifle in 280 AI. For the ones that have had it for a while now, would you still recommend it? Also, if you replaced the stock what did you go with?

 

[Jfjfrye]

I know I'm late to this thread but thinkin about purchasing this rifle in 280 AI. For the ones that have had it for a while now, would you still recommend it? Also, if you replaced the stock what did you go with?

I have a 300wsm. It shoots good. Even with factory ammo. But I’ve since replaced the stock because the factory stock is trash. I when with a Stockys VG2 which I really like. Then I bedded it as well just for my ease of mind. Working on load development now. That being said….. if I were to do it again……
I’d 100% Go with a tikka and put it in a chassis or a Rostock and be done. You’ll spend about around $800 on the tikka and then however much you want to spend on an aftermarket stock. But tikka factory stocks are solid (unlike the savage ultralight) so it’s not a must. You could add a tikka vertical grip and call is a day and have a gun that hammers. For almost $1000 less. Just my .02 but I feel like I’ve been fighting this thing the whole time to build confidence in the set up when I should have sold it right off and went a different route.

 

[Nicaburns]

I’d definitely still stick with mine! Bought it planning to put it in a stockys vg2 so never even fired a shot in the original stock.
Mine is an absolute tack driver in 6.5prc and I have a buddy with one in 7prc that is as well.
Only other changes I made was a lumley ti bolt handle and shroud.

 

[TheHammer]

I know I'm late to this thread but thinkin about purchasing this rifle in 280 AI. For the ones that have had it for a while now, would you still recommend it? Also, if you replaced the stock what did you go with?

I have no issues with mine, shot it this weekend, 5 shots at 200yds, less than an inch with factory barnes 168ttsx 308. Factory stock, the webbing is foam filled and it’s bedded, I’m one who likes the feel of the savage stocks. I have a few. The only one I switched stocks on was a lightweight storm, it’s in a mesa precision with the adjustable comb.

 

[wyosam]

I have a 300wsm. It shoots good. Even with factory ammo. But I’ve since replaced the stock because the factory stock is trash. I when with a Stockys VG2 which I really like. Then I bedded it as well just for my ease of mind. Working on load development now. That being said….. if I were to do it again……
I’d 100% Go with a tikka and put it in a chassis or a Rostock and be done. You’ll spend about around $800 on the tikka and then however much you want to spend on an aftermarket stock. But tikka factory stocks are solid (unlike the savage ultralight) so it’s not a must. You could add a tikka vertical grip and call is a day and have a gun that hammers. For almost $1000 less. Just my .02 but I feel like I’ve been fighting this thing the whole time to build confidence in the set up when I should have sold it right off and went a different route.

I had one briefly. That was a few years ago before there were really any stock options for them. I’m honestly glad there weren’t options then, or I might have wasted more time and money on that barreled action. Think I had it about 10 days. The stock was horrid, and the action was significant rougher than the couple other savages I own. I’m glad people enjoy them, but there are far better rifles out there for much less money.


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[Jfjfrye]

I had one briefly. That was a few years ago before there were really any stock options for them. I’m honestly glad there weren’t options then, or I might have wasted more time and money on that barreled action. Think I had it about 10 days. The stock was horrid, and the action was significant rougher than the couple other savages I own. I’m glad people enjoy them, but there are far better rifles out there for much less money.


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Exactly

 

[Nicaburns]

there are far better rifles out there for much less money.


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This is the part that puzzles me... I paid $1k for mine but they have ranged as low as $900 from Cabelas. A VG2 is about $400 on sale so all in is 1,300-1,400 if you shop. I am not sure what is "better for less money" out there in the land of 7 pound rifles. I'd love to know if there are.

 

[TheHammer]

This is the part that puzzles me... I paid $1k for mine but they have ranged as low as $900 from Cabelas. A VG2 is about $400 on sale so all in is 1,300-1,400 if you shop. I am not sure what is "better for less money" out there in the land of 7 pound rifles. I'd love to know if there are.

The reference is to tikkas. Savages don’t get a lot of love on here.

 

[Tahoe1305]

I have this gun in 6.5C. Got a good deal too.

IMO tikka for same price is better. Even with a steel barrel it’s equal weight and shoots as good. Action smoothness is difference.

 

[wyosam]

This is the part that puzzles me... I paid $1k for mine but they have ranged as low as $900 from Cabelas. A VG2 is about $400 on sale so all in is 1,300-1,400 if you shop. I am not sure what is "better for less money" out there in the land of 7 pound rifles. I'd love to know if there are.

Mine weighed more than advertised like 6# 3oz if I recall. Both of the T3x Tikkas I’ve had have weighed less than advertised in stock form. The quality difference for a couple ounces doesn’t make much sense to me. Carbon barrels are light compared to similarly contoured steel barrels, but more than a light sporter. My biggest disappointment was the action- it felt like it was full of gravel, as did the other superlights I handled. That isn’t just comparing them to Tikkas- that is compared to the other Savages I own, or any other action for that matter. I wanted to like the super light, and cycled the action for hours while watching TV hoping it would improve, polished a few places that were obviously contributing with some improvement, then realized that it was a lipstick on a pig situation.


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[Nicaburns]

I hear the Tikka love and have owned and recommended them. BUT, they are still not “much less money” … even if you do like them 100x better… even a base model, once threaded, is gonna be in the same ballpark.

 

[wyosam]

I hear the Tikka love and have owned and recommended them. BUT, they are still not “much less money” … even if you do like them 100x better… even a base model, once threaded, is gonna be in the same ballpark.

A stainless T3X is under 900, a super light on sale is 1200? A stainless super light is lighter and still cheaper than a super light. Those are both rifles with a good stock that doesn’t need anything. Sure, for reasons that make no sense Tikka doesn’t thread the light barrels from the factory, there is that. Still pretty easy to thread a stainless and still be cheaper than the savage. I guess it depends on how much value you put in a carbon barrel. There was a brief period where I thought they were the answer, then I replaced both of mine with steel barrels and both rifles lost weight.

I will say I think all the “premium” Tikkas are a waste of money- they pretty much just get heavier and go way up in price to get a cool color and a threaded muzzle.


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[Nicaburns]

A stainless T3X is under 900, a super light on sale is 1200?

superlights have been $899 at Cabelas … mine, as mentioned was a grand, I get that tikka is smoother and don’t dispute that… but there is just not an appreciable price difference