I received a call in December to confirm color choice. Then another call a week later saying it didn't pass UM QC and that a new one would he added to the stockys order list. Railed Tikka, left handHappy birthday to my rokstok order...
I have a railed left hand Tikka that I got the detail confirmation email on and the inlet was wrong, so I'm getting a new one too. Also getting a free upgrade to a cerakote pattern because UM said they gave stocky's the wrong inlet details.I received a call in December to confirm color choice. Then another call a week later saying it didn't pass UM QC and that a new one would he added to the stockys order list. Railed Tikka, left hand
This is the best comparison for stockey’s I’ve ever seen! Well played.Stockys is the vortex optics of stock making.
Would have to be frustrating to have to continually cover up there their mess.
Since I can’t get a RokStok for the Howa Mini I figured I give this a try…. Needs some refinement but it’s not bad for the first attempt.
You might not be done but having negative comb but keeping the recoil pad low seems like it just adds something to hit you in the face unless you raised your rings to raise your head. If the pivot point ie shoulder contact is still the same point in relation to bore height the muzzle rise and inherent cheek piece rise is the same except you reduced clearance to your face. A negative comb only works as intended when used to effectively raise the buttpad to a higher point.Since I can’t get a RokStok for the Howa Mini I figured I give this a try…. Needs some refinement but it’s not bad for the first attempt.
It's 3D printed out of PLA. I modeled it up after handling the RokStok at the Expo. The final version won't be orange, and I'll use a much more robust filament than PLA. I whipped this up quick just to see if I liked how it felt. Just pulled it off the printer last night, so I haven't shot it yet. I do think I'll do another iteration to make it fit a little better first. I tried to match the RokStok specs (One half inch above the bore line, coming down at 12 degree angle) as close as I could without cutting into the stock itself. I couldn't replicate it exactly, as I believe the front of the comb on the RokStok goes further below the bore line than the comb on the Stocky's Hunter VG.Now that's interesting. What did you use?
Ya, I'm still thinking about how to solve the buttpad issue. I could just drill some holes and raise the existing pad, or I am thinking about trying my luck with some softer TPU filament and designing my own custom pad that covers the whole space.You might not be done but having negative comb but keeping the recoil pad low seems like it just adds something to hit you in the face unless you raised your rings to raise your head. If the pivot point ie shoulder contact is still the same point in relation to bore height the muzzle rise and inherent cheek piece rise is the same except you reduced clearance to your face. A negative comb only works as intended when used to effectively raise the buttpad to a higher point.
Put simply if no material was close to your face before adding extra to make a negative comb only increases the chances it hit you.
If the plan is to raise the buttpad too then that looks epic and I'd love to know the process.
Regardless great job so far
Can you print the softer TPU to the Current material. If so could you use the same bolt holes but print a expanded mesh type system from the flexible filament to create the "pad" then just remove the original pad.Ya, I'm still thinking about how to solve the buttpad issue. I could just drill some holes and raise the existing pad, or I am thinking about trying my luck with some softer TPU filament and designing my own custom pad that covers the whole space.
Pretty sure if you look at the rokstok development thread that's how they prototype the rokstokWould 3d printing a stock be feasible? Anyone know? I've seen where people scan items and then print from the scan, so in theory you could scan your existing stock and action to get close for the inletting and do some finish work?
I think I recall that now that you said it. I suppose for mass production it would not make sense and the molds make sense but for a one off here and there, seems like it could work.Pretty sure if you look at the rokstok development thread that's how they prototype the rokstok
I think they printed it in pieces bonded them together etc. I would say the result is a more flimsy, far less durable stock but allows all the touchs points to be checked. Before rescanning the final design to make a mold.I think I recall that now that you said it. I suppose for mass production it would not make sense and the molds make sense but for a one off here and there, seems like it could work.
3D printing with multiple materials in one print is possible, but I don't have the setup for it. I will have to make the comb adapter and the buttpad two separate pieces. I like your aluminum adapter plate idea, as it would allow me to avoid having a crazy tall buttpad that won't fit in my rifle sling, and the cushion from the current buttpad is likely to be better than anything I print out of TPU. However, I am curious to see how good I could get it by using some sort of honeycomb structure to absorb the recoil.Can you print the softer TPU to the Current material. If so could you use the same bolt holes but print a expanded mesh type system from the flexible filament to create the "pad" then just remove the original pad.
A thin piece of aluminium with 2 sets of holes could be used as well with the current setup. One set that is countersunk and bolt the the stock and a raised set that's threaded to allow the recoil pad to bolt on high up.
Another option is that microcell recoil pads are just EVA foam. Flip flops or whatever you call it is the same material. In NZ it's fairly common for us to cut up jandals and glue then to stocks for recoil pads. You can also obviously by a sheet of EVA foam in the thickness required. It could likely be glued to the 3D print. Hope it goes well whatever you try.3D printing with multiple materials in one print is possible, but I don't have the setup for it. I will have to make the comb adapter and the buttpad two separate pieces. I like your aluminum adapter plate idea, as it would allow me to avoid having a crazy tall buttpad that won't fit in my rifle sling, and the cushion from the current buttpad is likely to be better than anything I print out of TPU. However, I am curious to see how good I could get it by using some sort of honeycomb structure to absorb the recoil.
Edit: Honeycomb would likely shave a few ounces as well......