RokStok

Antares

WKR
Joined
Jan 13, 2021
Messages
2,093
Location
Alaska
First RokStok/axis or did someone post one and I missed it?

Anyway, first time shooting close quarters, offhand stuff with the Rokstok. Worked great, recoil mgmt was awesome. I did have the stock and my headset interfering with each other quite a bit, which might be a consideration for someone who wears a headset frequently.

IMG_4982.jpeg
 
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Joined
Nov 14, 2018
Messages
510
Location
Northern Michigan
khuber84's response to you is spot-on. Bed a pillar for the front action screw and there's no need to bed your DM (unless loose fit/gapped around the inlet opening). Bedding a front pillar does not necessarily require bedding around the tang, front screw, or full receiver.

Hoping to be helpful, here's a list of 700 considerations based on my (1) Rokstok experience + what I'm seeing posted by others/PMs:
  • The Accu-Block represented by Stocky's is meaningless if (1) the receiver sits too low, (2) there's space behind the recoil lug, and/or (3) the barrel sits too low in the channel
  • If a barreled action sits to low, fair to guess that there will be a DM feeding problem
  • I doubt there will be any need for a rear pillar
  • If you need to buy a front pillar, be aware that there are different lengths per 700 SA, MA, LA - no matter, it's worth having all three sizes on hand in case there might be a height or feeding issue
  • The bottom of the pillar is to be set flush with the bottom flat of the DM metal inlet
  • Understand that pillars ensure ideal spacing for d-mag position and feeding
  • Make sure you test your magazine feeding before bedding the front pillar
  • Will likely need to buy a set of extra-length action screws, then grind to height
  • Pillar drill bit is 9/16" and be sure to use a drill press and a vise

Suggestion to Rokstok stakeholders: Do like Manners and deliver 700 stocks with 9/16" holes for action screws, include a loose set of pillars for the new stock owner to make his own decision.

Note that the front pillar I used created the perfect height for barrel clearance and mag feeding, so ended up being an easy fix.


See pillar reference for Front and Rear:
View attachment 799473

Am curious how many 700 Rokstok owners received a true drop-in. A tapered, larger diameter CF barrel might give a false sense of proper height if the fatter end of the barrel is sitting on the channel. Run a dollar under the barrel to determine whether the barrel floats in front of the lug.

Edit to add that washer/shimming around the front screw is a smart fix till making a pillar or bedding commitment.

I dropped a 243ai barreled action in my 700 rokstock. It's a rock creek rem varmint contour dupe, 1/4" lug and bottom metal is ptg stealth. Didn't bed it and have no issues. Feeds well from my mdt poly mags. I'll skim bed it this winter when I yank the barrel as it's about done. My next barrel will be a criterion remage sporter contour in 22cm
 
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diverc18

Lil-Rokslider
Joined
Mar 30, 2023
Messages
141
First RokStok/axis or did someone post one and I missed it?

Anyway, first time shooting close quarters, offhand stuff with the Rokstok. Worked great, recoil mgmt was awesome. I did have the stock and my headset interfering with each other quite a bit, which might be a consideration for someone who wears a headset frequently.

View attachment 799873
I beat you to it lol. Mine only had one antler though
 

Mtndawger

FNG
Joined
Mar 11, 2021
Messages
84
I’ve had to do that for both of my tikka actions with factory bottom metal.
I needed .03under the front screw and .01 under the rear screw to get my magazines to latch and function with mountain tactical bottom metal and factory magazines. I also think that the inlet for the bottom metal is slightly too far back as the action mounted spring forces the magazine forward putting a ton of pressure on the latch. With the shims the bottom metal sits proud of the stock not flush.
 
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Joined
Mar 27, 2017
Messages
1,602
Location
North Carolina
2600? What powder are you using? I’m 150fps faster with 130TMK out of my 16.5” 6.5CM suppressed. I am using Staball 6.5.
130tmk, 43.5 of imr4350, chopped tikka stainless barrel.

You’re getting 2750? That would save me a boat load of money and recoil as I’m trying to get out to 600yds at sea level with adequate impact velocity
 

AZ_Hunter

WKR
Classified Approved
Joined
May 1, 2024
Messages
406
130tmk, 43.5 of imr4350, chopped tikka stainless barrel.

You’re getting 2750? That would save me a boat load of money and recoil as I’m trying to get out to 600yds at sea level with adequate impact velocity
That’s what my chrony is telling me. I am in AZ though and have a 7.5” can on it. I’m using 45.5 of Staball 6.5.
 
Joined
Aug 4, 2014
Messages
2,332
Location
Phoenix, Az
130tmk, 43.5 of imr4350, chopped tikka stainless barrel.

You’re getting 2750? That would save me a boat load of money and recoil as I’m trying to get out to 600yds at sea level with adequate impact velocity
I just shot my new " 6.5 bitch biscuit with 130 TMK's. I was averaging 2886 with 42 gr of H4350. No pressure signs yet. Tikka action, C6 20" with Scythe ti suppressor. Az 1000' elevation.
 
Joined
Mar 27, 2017
Messages
1,602
Location
North Carolina
I just shot my new " 6.5 bitch biscuit with 130 TMK's. I was averaging 2886 with 42 gr of H4350. No pressure signs yet. Tikka action, C6 20" with Scythe ti suppressor. Az 1000' elevation.
That puts you around 2750 in a 16” too.

guess my tikka barrel is just slow as a dog.shame, it’s extremely accurate.

Back to the rokstok, and ideas on an xbolt inlet? Might wanna get one for my pops
 
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