RokStok

[mxgsfmdpx]

You may need epoxy bedding, but you don’t need pillars

Yep mine are just skim bedded. No need to go crazy.

 

[Schmo]

Stocky’s tested compression on aluminum pillars vs their carbon fiber block, and the carbon fiber block was still taking the pressure at 8x the pressure that the pillars started deforming.

 

[Stocky]

Stocky’s tested compression on aluminum pillars vs their carbon fiber block, and the carbon fiber block was still taking the pressure at 8x the pressure that the pillars started deforming.

Epoxy tends to have creepy wonder what a creepy measurement would show.

 

[Schmo]

Epoxy tends to have creepy wonder what a creepy measurement would show.

What’s a creepy?

 

[NSI]

Mine are all set up like our shop rifles (JB Kwik at lug and tang, no release agent and no pillars).

-J

 

[NSI]

It's been one year since I received my first Rokstok.

It has been on 3 different rifles, 5 different barrels, and now has a permanent home bedded to this Tikka 223 action.

I'm not overly or purposely "mean" to my guns but they definitely get used. @NSI did mention that my backseat full of gear/guns/ammo all piled on each other was an absolute shit show haha.

This stock has just over 11,000 rounds on it between the different guns and it hasn't missed a beat. Zero issues with the carbon structure, inletting, or the Spartan Pic rail/scalloped fore-end.

The cerakote scratches as expected, and normal wear spots on fore-end, butt stock, and bolt cutout are down to bare carbon in spots. This doesn't cause any issues whatsoever in shooting and hunting and overall I think it's held up well. Examples here...

View attachment 880586

View attachment 880588



It's also still doing this nearly every day, 77 TMKs sure do slap canal road bunnies...

View attachment 880592


If you had concerns with longevity or heavy field use I would honestly put those to bed and order these for all your guns. There hasn't been a single shooter in multiple dozen users over the last year that didn't love shooting this stock.

He’s not kidding. That work truck gives the back seat of a certain blue Toyota a run for its money.

-J

 

[Castle Rock]

Mine are all set up like our shop rifles (JB Kwik at lug and tang, no release agent and no pillars).

-J

Can’t argue with that and if I lived where corrosion wasn’t a constant problem I would probably do that too, although devcon is my favored brew

 

[wind gypsy]

Yep mine are just skim bedded. No need to go crazy.

How do you decide to bed or not?

My first rs on a 6 CM has always shot well. The second caused an accurate barreled action to shoot like shit. After relieving the dumb way they inlet around front of action and barrel shank and devcon bedding it shoots good. Still need to make it play nice with high desert BM and waters mags though as with full shims the mags barely click in..

 

[Castle Rock]

How do you decide to bed or not?

It isn’t something you need to think about, why would you want to handicap yourself the starting gate.
An hour of work when you first get it can save days of frustration and a heap of bucks worth of ammo, but the biggest thing is that it gives you confidence right from the start, rather than second guessing yourself.
Bedding the bottom (plastic) metal is also a given if it isn’t in a factory stock, do this after the bedding has set ensuring it feeds before you fire a shot.

Disclaimer, don’t do this with your RuRemChester in case it has to go back to the factory for warranty

 

[HighUintas]

Mine are all set up like our shop rifles (JB Kwik at lug and tang, no release agent and no pillars).

-J

Are these actions removable without destroying the stock?

 

[Castle Rock]

Heat gun and they just lift out, protect the stock with a wet towel and warm the metal slowly

 

[Stocky]

B

What’s a creepy?

Bloody auto correct. Creep as in slow compression under loaded conditions. Ie it wouldn't compress immediately but if left under load it slowly deforms.

 

[Castle Rock]

Are these actions removable without destroying the stock?

Or put the gun in a freezer (or leave it outside if you are unfortunate enough to live in one of those places) and give it a love tap under the barrel with a rubber hammer, but make sure to hold it together, it will fly out.

 

[NSI]

Heat gun and they just lift out, protect the stock with a wet towel and warm the metal slowly

Correct @HighUintas

 

[HighUintas]

Correct @HighUintas

This is the semi-permanently bonding you're doing? I was thinking it was something much harder to remove.

 

[NSI]

This is the semi-permanently bonding you're doing? I was thinking it was something much harder to remove.

It’s part of it. I use Kwik because it breaks free at 300 rather than 500 for most longer work time epoxies. I also glue in the action screws. The point is to try to survive shock, not unnatural temperature.

-J

 

[mxgsfmdpx]

How do you decide to bed or not?

My first rs on a 6 CM has always shot well. The second caused an accurate barreled action to shoot like shit. After relieving the dumb way they inlet around front of action and barrel shank and devcon bedding it shoots good.

The wood stock required bedding and the other two I bedded… you described it harshly, but accurately.

Still need to make it play nice with high desert BM and waters mags though as with full shims the mags barely click in..

High desert non linear and waters combo requires a bit of filing of the magazine catch tab area in my experience. Also, with some high desert BMs the mags click in great, others not so much. This is with factory plastic and 4 different aftermarket magazines.

 

[wind gypsy]

The wood stock required bedding and the other two I bedded… you described it harshly, but accurately.

Yes, maybe a bit blunt on wording. @Stockys @Unknown Munitions - Has there been any updates to the tikka inlets on the rokstoks? Mine are both early run stocks. I don't understand why the inlet hugs the face of the receiver and is so tight on the barrel shank. It just seems to create unnecessary potential for stress in the bedding and contact with barrel shanks. Even the "Tikka Lite" contoured ACE i have in it seemed tight in the shank, PVA prefits burn hard and require opening up the inlet. This is with Sendero contour barrel channels and sporter steel barrels, there still isn't enough clearance.

High desert non linear and waters combo requires a bit of filing of the magazine catch tab area in my experience. Also, with some high desert BMs the mags click in great, others not so much. This is with factory plastic and 4 different aftermarket magazines.

Both mine are Linear. Seems to work fine with factory M+ mags on the 6 creed in a rokstok but the 223 doesn't play nice with waters mags and I cant even find my factory 223 mags.

Maybe you cover this in the waters mag review thread you created. I'll have to revisit because right now the 223 is not feeding well. It fed great in factory stock/bottom metal.

 

[wind gypsy]

It isn’t something you need to think about, why would you want to handicap yourself the starting gate.
An hour of work when you first get it can save days of frustration and a heap of bucks worth of ammo, but the biggest thing is that it gives you confidence right from the start, rather than second guessing yourself.
Bedding the bottom (plastic) metal is also a given if it isn’t in a factory stock, do this after the bedding has set ensuring it feeds before you fire a shot.

Disclaimer, don’t do this with your RuRemChester in case it has to go back to the factory for warranty

Any recommended tutorials a guy should visit on bedding bottom metal? I've never done it and hate to eff it up.

 

[wind gypsy]

Anyone glued a peeling recoil pad on? What would you use for it?

Yes. 1 with shoe goo. 1 with DAP rapid fuse. Both worked satisfactorily.