RokStok

[TxLite]

If I was ordering a mcmillan I'd get a mountain tracker LR

I’ve got one for a r700 clone and it’s awesome. I do wish they offered a version without the finger stop like they do on the game warden LR but it’s not the end of the world.

Not sure if they are doing that stock for the xbolt though. I know they are going to do it for tikka though.

 

[DangerRanger]

McMillan will only inlet the game scout, game warden 2.0 and the a3-5 for x bolts.

While I’m not entirely against the a3-5 and making it more of a “canyon rifle” build it’s really not what I would prefer and the grip to trigger on the a3-5 is 2” which is also longer than optimal.

 

[2Stamp]

I'd re-gun my xbolt before I would re-stock it.

lol, nope, not this one. But that IS funny.

 

[Bluumoon]

@longrangelead if a guy was finishing a walnut stock and prioritized weather resistance over appearance what would you recommend?

 

[longrangelead]

@longrangelead if a guy was finishing a walnut stock and prioritized weather resistance over appearance what would you recommend?

I think the ultimate would be a layer of the modern epoxy with several coats of a poly blend over that.
I can imagine the epoxy would be hard to work properly though so I have not tried it yet.

That said, any of the poly blends like Tru-oil or a lacquer based finish are pretty tough. the thicker, the tougher.

Getting a good bond to the wood is just as important as using a quality finish.

 

[Speaks]

@longrangelead if a guy was finishing a walnut stock and prioritized weather resistance over appearance what would you recommend?

My beretta 686 was refinished in tung oil and in is the WI grouse wood rain or shine nearly every day from around October first through the Friday before Thanksgiving and anywhere between a handful and a bunch of days after. I will touch it up every few years but its just fine. I hate thick coats of plastic like coating on stocks. Tung oil, is my preference but timberlux is also decent. IF both are applied right.

 

[SkunkCabbage]

Well by fluke a fellow BC resident decided to sell his tikka one and I’ll be getting it hopefully next week sometime. Look forward to finally trying one out.

 

[nm.otter]

I used to buy tung oil and d-limonene by the barrel -- mix those together with a bit of carnauba and you have a great wood finish. Had very good success with floors, doors and trim using that.

Tung worked well for cutting boards, knife handles, and garden tools, but a few years back I switched to a pure wax finish for those: Mix jojoba ester (it's a liquid wax, not an oil) with heated beeswax to the desired consistency and it will deliver an amazing amount of water resistance. If possible I preheat the wood in a 170°F oven to dry it out and improve penetration -- a couple hours in direct sun on a hot day will prep the tool handles. I start with about 75% jojoba and work my way to about 90% beeswax layer by layer. An annual touchup with 90-100% beeswax keeps them beading water and looking beautiful.

 

[HighUintas]

I forgot about soaking the wood in beeswax.

Some guys who build Longrifles will heat their stock with a heat gun and then paint melted beeswax on and keep doing it until the stock won't accept any more wax. It will make it heavier and won't really harden it like poly sealers do, but it will make it super water resistant

 

[Bluumoon]

I forgot about soaking the wood in

Some guys who build Longrifles will heat their stock with a heat gun and then paint melted beeswax on and keep doing it until the stock won't accept any more wax. It will make it heavier and won't really harden it like poly sealers do, but it will make it super water resistant

I like the description of the tung oil finish appearance and I happen to have a ton of bees wax from my bees. Wonder what a soak/finish in tung oil and a layer of bees wax would work out to.

 

[HighUintas]

I like the description of the tung oil finish appearance and I happen to have a ton of bees wax from my bees. Wonder what a soak/finish in tung oil and a layer of bees wax would work out to.

The beeswax finishes are very matte and look "in" the wood rather than "on" it like a lot of the built up poly finishes. The polymerized tung oil finishes I've seen look great. Some have been very shiny though.

You can make just about any poly/oil/varnish finish look any way you want. The difference is in the application method.

 

[Speaks]

The guy i know who finishes lots of shotgun stocks does sever very light coats using steel wool in between.