Pump rifle

I have a Remington pump in .308 that is stupid accurate with 180gr corelocks. I did replace the terrible factory trigger though.
 
From skimming through much of the posts, I find the positional shooting thing a bit funny. Sure it’s not a design that’s optimized like a rokstok, but you can still train for it. Just need to learn to work around the quirks. Its real value comes out in the thick timber of the east and north, where jump shots and follow ups are not unusual. Additionally in the NE, you cannot hunt deer with semi autos in some states, which no doubt increased the popularity.

All this said, OP if you buy one, be ensure the tube that tensions the barrel is tight, that part loosening is often the cause of bad accuracy.

Also as a testament to accuracy, I’ve attached a three shot group that is not unusual out of my example in 270. Master the trigger creep and they shoot, even took it out to 400 yds lol
 

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I cut and threaded my 7600 30-06 to 18 inch, added a timney trigger kit, Limbsaver Airtech and Maven 2-10. The 3lb trigger still has lots of creep. I hunt suppressed and the gun went from 2-3 inch MOA to .5 inch and is super handy. Still or stand hunting nothing compares to it for staying on target and follow up shots. Purchased new in 1985 i will never sell it.
You got a picture of that supressed 7600? I'm up in Norther NH in the heart of deer tracking country. They indeed have a cult following in this area. I'm the pariah in the area with a cut down, 5lb Kimber Hunter, although all be adding my grandpa's savage 99 to the collection soon.
 
From skimming through much of the posts, I find the positional shooting thing a bit funny. Sure it’s not a design that’s optimized like a rokstok, but you can still train for it. Just need to learn to work around the quirks. Its real value comes out in the thick timber of the east and north, where jump shots and follow ups are not unusual. Additionally in the NE, you cannot hunt deer with semi autos in some states, which no doubt increased the popularity.

All this said, OP if you buy one, be ensure the tube that tensions the barrel is tight, that part loosening is often the cause of bad accuracy.

Also as a testament to accuracy, I’ve attached a three shot group that is not unusual out of my example in 270. Master the trigger creep and they shoot, even took it out to 400 yds lol
Pretty work. Thank you
 
You guys mentioning the tube being tigjt b/c it holds the barrel on. Honestly did not know that, and Ive owned mine (and one before that) for 25 years. Lots of hard knocks, bumps, spills, etc but have never checked or tightened that. Most of the ones I see are similarly rode hard. Ya think maybe thats why yours shooots and I’ve never seen one that did?
@Tod osier @Halligan I dont have mine on-premises right now to check, but how do you evaluate, and can this be tightened and how?
 
You guys mentioning the tube being tigjt b/c it holds the barrel on. Honestly did not know that, and Ive owned mine (and one before that) for 25 years. Lots of hard knocks, bumps, spills, etc but have never checked or tightened that. Most of the ones I see are similarly rode hard. Ya think maybe thats why yours shooots and I’ve never seen one that did?
@Tod osier @Halligan I dont have mine on-premises right now to check, but how do you evaluate, and can this be tightened and how?

In the photo below you can see the action tube (part #4 on the parts diagram) with the pair of cross holes in it. You tighten with a rod or punch in it similar to capstan nut (except that the rod can go through the center and catch the back side). No idea on torque spec, I looked at the time and didn't find one. I suppose if I ever had to do it again, I'd look up the bolt and come up with a max torque and try to jury rig something to apply that force.

In the pic you can see the whole shebang, the action tube (equivalent to the mag tube) tightens on the barrel extension/bracket (blocky looking thing between the receiver and action tube) and the actual bolt comes out of the receiver where you would load shells from the action into the mag tube on a pump shotgun.

1772539936650.png.
 
Thank you. I dont recall mine “feeling” loose there, but will check. I appreciate you taking a pic of it, thats helpful.

Mine has much of the bluing worn off there, not nearly as pretty! 😁
 
@Macintosh
Could very well be a source of accuracy degradation for you. In a couple examples I’ve seen, retorquing the tube, even on a “tight” one, plus a good barrel clean (most of these guns have never seen a bore brush) has provided improved accuracy.

To my understanding, when they were originally assembled, the factory used some sort of red loc tite equivalent, which of course, has an expiration.

Once this bond has been broken or worn out, most ascribe to the German torque spec of “Guht-n-tight”, good spot here for paint pen as a locker. Also makes cleaning the gun from the breech a breeze.



Also, it’s worth mentioning that if you search the forum, there is a company that makes tube wrenches. I think the worthwhile investment, as it protects the tube from deformation. I’ve though about reaching out to the machine shop, and asking if they would make one that would accept a torque wrench, specifically to figure out what “spec” is
 
Thank you—found that link. For anyone looking:

This post has the link, and a couple posts below it is a video.
https://rokslide.com/forums/threads/remington-7600-barrel-removal-issue.422579/post-4354608

Im generally super skeptical of accuracy claims and a lot of gun info coming from old school new englanders, Ive found it to be heavy on the fudd lore and bad habits that only survive from rarely needing to shoot past bayonet range—but Im for sure going to see if I can tighten mine up and if it results in any better precision.
 
Highly suggest using the tool from previous post if barrel needs to come off. They dont come off easy. Reassemble is easy though as barrel has a shoulder which snugs easy to the receiver.
 

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Highly suggest using the tool from previous post if barrel needs to come off. They dont come off easy. Reassemble is easy though as barrel has a shoulder which snugs easy to the receiver.
Just bumping this back up to say that tool works very well and is worth the price if you are working on a 760 or 7600.

Also posting to share my experience with a finished Boyd’s replacement stock and forend. I recently purchased a new laminated stock and forend that was finished and checkered. Long story short, I have an email in to them to return it or to have another one sent. The fitment is really poor and much worse than I expected. I didn’t expect it to be absolutely perfect, even for almost $400, but it’s not even remotely acceptable. I’ll hold off on pictures for now until I hear back from them, but wanted to share that I am quite disappointed with it. The factory stocks for these rifle are very expensive and becoming harder to find. I was hoping this replacement would be a good option to keep the factory wood stock in good shape, but this particular set that made it to me is not.
 
Ive always heard them called the Mennonite machine gun after them being the gun of choice for the Mennonite that hunt the pa deer woods. I don't have any love for them, but those that like them, love them. They also tend not to like to shoot tiny groups with other rifles.
 
Just bumping this back up to say that tool works very well and is worth the price if you are working on a 760 or 7600.

Also posting to share my experience with a finished Boyd’s replacement stock and forend. I recently purchased a new laminated stock and forend that was finished and checkered. Long story short, I have an email in to them to return it or to have another one sent. The fitment is really poor and much worse than I expected. I didn’t expect it to be absolutely perfect, even for almost $400, but it’s not even remotely acceptable. I’ll hold off on pictures for now until I hear back from them, but wanted to share that I am quite disappointed with it. The factory stocks for these rifle are very expensive and becoming harder to find. I was hoping this replacement would be a good option to keep the factory wood stock in good shape, but this particular set that made it to me is not.
Thanks for this, was thinking about purchasing a set for the same reason. Please let us know how the next set goes
 
I have my dad's Gamemaster 760 in -06. He bought it mail order around 1962 for 35 bucks I think. He picked peaches all summer to save for it. It has the corn cob fore end. He killed dozens of deer with it. It's old, shows a lot of wear and the barrel is pitted. I used it to kill my Yukon moose in 2024. I hand loaded 200 grain Accubonds for the moose trip and got sub 1 inch groups at 100 yards. Before this the best I could get was about a 3 inch group with green box Core-Lokt in 150 grain, which is about the only ammo my dad ever used. I don't know how often or if he ever cleaned it. I absolutely love this gun and will never sell or trade it. It was never meant to be a precision or long range rifle, so don't expect it to be. I sent the trigger to be re-worked and now it breaks at 3.5# which is fine fir me. Basically the same trigger that is in 1100 shotguns. If I could find one in .257 Roberts I'd mortgage my house to get it. There are aftermarket 10 round mags for it, I have a few. They are cheaply made and I only use the factory steel mags. I have a vari-X 3 2.5X8 Leupold on it. If I was to hunt from a stand and was looking at distances 100 yards or under, this is the gun I would use above all the others in the safe. Get one, you will not regret it.
 
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