Pump rifle

[Bobbyboe]

I have a Remington pump in .308 that is stupid accurate with 180gr corelocks. I did replace the terrible factory trigger though.

 

[Halligan]

From skimming through much of the posts, I find the positional shooting thing a bit funny. Sure it’s not a design that’s optimized like a rokstok, but you can still train for it. Just need to learn to work around the quirks. Its real value comes out in the thick timber of the east and north, where jump shots and follow ups are not unusual. Additionally in the NE, you cannot hunt deer with semi autos in some states, which no doubt increased the popularity.

All this said, OP if you buy one, be ensure the tube that tensions the barrel is tight, that part loosening is often the cause of bad accuracy.

Also as a testament to accuracy, I’ve attached a three shot group that is not unusual out of my example in 270. Master the trigger creep and they shoot, even took it out to 400 yds lol

 

[Choupique]

a three shot group

You must be new around here!

 

[Halligan]

You must be new around here!

Lol I know I know. Everyone stay calm, the ten shot composite group was 1.1”

 

[BigWoods]

I cut and threaded my 7600 30-06 to 18 inch, added a timney trigger kit, Limbsaver Airtech and Maven 2-10. The 3lb trigger still has lots of creep. I hunt suppressed and the gun went from 2-3 inch MOA to .5 inch and is super handy. Still or stand hunting nothing compares to it for staying on target and follow up shots. Purchased new in 1985 i will never sell it.

You got a picture of that supressed 7600? I'm up in Norther NH in the heart of deer tracking country. They indeed have a cult following in this area. I'm the pariah in the area with a cut down, 5lb Kimber Hunter, although all be adding my grandpa's savage 99 to the collection soon.

 

[K9kodi]

From skimming through much of the posts, I find the positional shooting thing a bit funny. Sure it’s not a design that’s optimized like a rokstok, but you can still train for it. Just need to learn to work around the quirks. Its real value comes out in the thick timber of the east and north, where jump shots and follow ups are not unusual. Additionally in the NE, you cannot hunt deer with semi autos in some states, which no doubt increased the popularity.

All this said, OP if you buy one, be ensure the tube that tensions the barrel is tight, that part loosening is often the cause of bad accuracy.

Also as a testament to accuracy, I’ve attached a three shot group that is not unusual out of my example in 270. Master the trigger creep and they shoot, even took it out to 400 yds lol

Pretty work. Thank you

 

[Macintosh]

You guys mentioning the tube being tigjt b/c it holds the barrel on. Honestly did not know that, and Ive owned mine (and one before that) for 25 years. Lots of hard knocks, bumps, spills, etc but have never checked or tightened that. Most of the ones I see are similarly rode hard. Ya think maybe thats why yours shooots and I’ve never seen one that did?
@Tod osier @Halligan I dont have mine on-premises right now to check, but how do you evaluate, and can this be tightened and how?

 

[Tod osier]

You guys mentioning the tube being tigjt b/c it holds the barrel on. Honestly did not know that, and Ive owned mine (and one before that) for 25 years. Lots of hard knocks, bumps, spills, etc but have never checked or tightened that. Most of the ones I see are similarly rode hard. Ya think maybe thats why yours shooots and I’ve never seen one that did?
@Tod osier @Halligan I dont have mine on-premises right now to check, but how do you evaluate, and can this be tightened and how?

In the photo below you can see the action tube (part #4 on the parts diagram) with the pair of cross holes in it. You tighten with a rod or punch in it similar to capstan nut (except that the rod can go through the center and catch the back side). No idea on torque spec, I looked at the time and didn't find one. I suppose if I ever had to do it again, I'd look up the bolt and come up with a max torque and try to jury rig something to apply that force.

In the pic you can see the whole shebang, the action tube (equivalent to the mag tube) tightens on the barrel extension/bracket (blocky looking thing between the receiver and action tube) and the actual bolt comes out of the receiver where you would load shells from the action into the mag tube on a pump shotgun.

.

 

[Macintosh]

Thank you. I dont recall mine “feeling” loose there, but will check. I appreciate you taking a pic of it, thats helpful.

Mine has much of the bluing worn off there, not nearly as pretty!

 

[Bearded Gnome]

Mine is uglier than yours is. It is even rebored and painted. BeardedGnome.

 

[Halligan]

@Macintosh
Could very well be a source of accuracy degradation for you. In a couple examples I’ve seen, retorquing the tube, even on a “tight” one, plus a good barrel clean (most of these guns have never seen a bore brush) has provided improved accuracy.

To my understanding, when they were originally assembled, the factory used some sort of red loc tite equivalent, which of course, has an expiration.

Once this bond has been broken or worn out, most ascribe to the German torque spec of “Guht-n-tight”, good spot here for paint pen as a locker. Also makes cleaning the gun from the breech a breeze.



Also, it’s worth mentioning that if you search the forum, there is a company that makes tube wrenches. I think the worthwhile investment, as it protects the tube from deformation. I’ve though about reaching out to the machine shop, and asking if they would make one that would accept a torque wrench, specifically to figure out what “spec” is