Power winch with jumper cables?

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Jan 18, 2015
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Northern Michigan
Got stuck this weekend in deep snow and wasn't a fan of it at all. Luckily I was close to some awesome people I know with a payloader. Got a winch on order now and I'm wondering if I can power it with 1 or 2 gauge jumper cables instead of the double the price wiring kits the winch companies sell? I'm mounting it with a hitch receiver and going to put one on the front as well so I can move it. Going to be (hopefully) rarely used so I was hoping to get by with this setup and keep everything in a tool box out of the weather until I need it. What do you guys think?


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Go to a welding supply place, and buy bulk cable, or a parts store and buy bulk cable. Buy the...I don't remember what they're called, but the connectors for heavy guage wires, and build your own kit.
Jumpers would be ok for a short, easy pull, but if you need sustained winching, you need big cables, and good battery terminals to make that connection. Last year I was clearing a vehicle from a race course at a local event, and the recovery vehicle we were using melted his battery terminals off running his winch.

Just follow the mfg recommendations.

Also, I'm not a fan of a reciever mount. They don't tend to deal with pulls other than dead straight away very well, and often, when you need to mount the winch into the reciever, it's packed with mud, snow, underwater, has a steep bank in front of it so there's no room, etc.

The advantage of a front or rear winch is great though.
 
You will need really thick jumper cables due to the length of them. Plug the winch rating into an online calculator with the required length to get the correct gauge.

Shouldn't be too expensive to get the right cables and connectors. Probably less than jumper cables.
 
I had a winch in my commercial fishing boats. I did like squamch suggested and used cable I bought at a welding supply. I used the twist lock connectors. Worked great for many years.
 
I don't leave my winch wires connected to my battery (even though the winch stays put) just to avoid a chance of phantom drain, etc. I use "military style" terminal connectors on my battery, there is the normal tightening bolt and then another bolt that just goes through the terminal block, its easy to connect up the winch wires (which are just tucked to the side) with an adjustable wrench and I feel better about a secure bolted connection to carry those amps. I've only used my winch a few times so that setup doesn't bother me.
 
Got stuck this weekend in deep snow and wasn't a fan of it at all. Luckily I was close to some awesome people I know with a payloader. Got a winch on order now...… I'm mounting it with a hitch receiver and going to put one on the front as well so I can move it.
I got a mobile winch that I can put on the front or rear receiver. Many times I've wanted to go backwards is why. I bought a Warn winch and cable and paid to have it installed. I did cover the cable with a garden hose to protect it from rubbing underneath myself. https://www.warn.com/quick-connect-power-cable-32966
 
Biggest thing is your going to have to wire it through relays/solinoids or take the chance of crud or ice getting into the Anderson connectors and shorting out And starting a fire.....I learned the hard way and melted the step pad off my 06 Silverado rear bumper
 
Biggest thing is your going to have to wire it through relays/solinoids or take the chance of crud or ice getting into the Anderson connectors and shorting out And starting a fire.....I learned the hard way and melted the step pad off my 06 Silverado rear bumper

This is why I liked the thought of not running wires on the frame and having the hitch mount. Everything stays in the toolbox until I need it. If I have to dig down to the receiver so be it. This will hopefully be a once a year or less winch.


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Yeah I get what you're wanna do probably would work but I'd replace the clamp on ends with terminal ends for a secure connection so they don't pop off while your mid pull that could get frustrating quick
 
Yeah I get what you're wanna do probably would work but I'd replace the clamp on ends with terminal ends for a secure connection so they don't pop off while your mid pull that could get frustrating quick

Yes terminal ends would absolutely be needed, clamps would be a horrible idea to carry that amperage.

As I tried to describe above I have military style terminals on my battery with a dedicated bolt I can quickly connect ring terminals to and tighten down with a basic wrench. Simple and effective.
 
I'm lucking in my work truck. Had several good welders available. Mounted my 12zeon warn winch in the back recessed in the flatbed. And it's friggin awesome for recovery broke down vehicles winching onto trailers etc. Trying to figure out the same sort of set up on my dually.. Wondering if I can build a cradle that will fit onto the gooseneck ball that way it could rotate to keep the pulling square... This idea is just in the beginning stages.. The welding lead suggestion further up is the best bet. imo depending on how far you are thinking you are going to run depends on the size. Always size up. Connections to the battery is where you lose electricity, just jumper cable style connections aren't going to be your best bet as you lose electricity. But if you aren't wanting to run permanent power supply I'm not positive the best idea... I was thinking something similar to this kind of set up.. Just thinking outloud here.
 
I'm lucking in my work truck. Had several good welders available. Mounted my 12zeon warn winch in the back recessed in the flatbed. And it's friggin awesome for recovery broke down vehicles winching onto trailers etc. Trying to figure out the same sort of set up on my dually.. Wondering if I can build a cradle that will fit onto the gooseneck ball that way it could rotate to keep the pulling square... This idea is just in the beginning stages.. The welding lead suggestion further up is the best bet. imo depending on how far you are thinking you are going to run depends on the size. Always size up. Connections to the battery is where you lose electricity, just jumper cable style connections aren't going to be your best bet as you lose electricity. But if you aren't wanting to run permanent power supply I'm not positive the best idea... I was thinking something similar to this kind of set up.. Just thinking outloud here.
I believe you can get that kit relatively inexpensive on aw direct, it's a site that sells wrecker and road side assistance supplies.
 
Simple and effective, just get heavy gauge cables with a ring terminal on the end, you can stuff it all in a truck box as desired and once a year usage simply unscrew 2 nuts, slip on 2 ring terminals and tighten down. No need for high amp anderson connectors, corrosion issues, etc.

81lGAnjWtOL._AC_SL1500_.jpg
 
Simple and effective, just get heavy gauge cables with a ring terminal on the end, you can stuff it all in a truck box as desired and once a year usage simply unscrew 2 nuts, slip on 2 ring terminals and tighten down. No need for high amp anderson connectors, corrosion issues, etc.

81lGAnjWtOL._AC_SL1500_.jpg

That's what I'm talking about


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That's what I'm talking about
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I was trying to flag it in words but folks wanted to over engineer it, a big picture helps. :p Thats exactly how my winch is connected/disconnected (its hard mounted but I disconnect to avoid phantom draws), the 2 times in 7 years I've needed to use it I haven't found it to be a pain.
 
You'll want to put a fuse on the hot side at the vehicles battery and a shut off switch at the end that connects to the winch. If the winch solenoid sticks (it can cause an electrical fire) or you get your hand/clothing caught in the fairlead you'll want to be able to cut 12v power to the winch quickly with either hand.
 
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