Po"tay"to Po"ta"to ... is 70 70?

[philcox]

Thinking I know the answer, but throwing it out here for some discussion (confirmation?).

I currently shoot a Nexus 2 (32") @ 70lbs, 28.5" DL. The bow has a 6" brace height and a 341 IBO. I was looking at a Lift X 29.5. IBO is 348 brace height is 6". I shoot a 438g 28.25" arrow. The only reason I was looking at the lift was to get more "distance", but the more I thought about it, I kind of figured that the arrow trajectory if both bows are @ 70lbs, is going to be essentially the same, and thus they are likely going to have very similar "distance" limitation (e.g., arrow hit the sight).

Seems to me that essentially any bow with similar IBO, Brace Height, and Riser Length (seems like adv to Nexus on this one, but not sure how much 2.5" matters).

Thoughts?

 

[Marble]

Phil, i would try moving your peep a little bit to give you more distance.

How far can you shoot now and far do you want to shoot?

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[philcox]

Phil, i would try moving your peep a little bit to give you more distance.

How far can you shoot now and far do you want to shoot?

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About 85. For 3D is like 110. I’ll give the peep a try.

 

[PathFinder]

Peeps are best off staying where they belong for a proper anchor. Moving them up does help a lot to get more adjustment though.
The 7 fps might get you 5 or 10 more yards. Not much.
Going to a smaller housing or additional pin nearer the bottom of the housing is the other way to do it.

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[Marble]

About 85. For 3D is like 110. I’ll give the peep a try.

Just put a permanent marker mark on your string for reference or measure it.

How much you can move it kind of depends on how you set it up to begin with. If you set it up using a 20-yard target, then you'll have a lot of room. If you started with a target in your mid range, then you'll have less wiggle room.

I forget which sight you have, but if it extends in or out, having it closer to the bow will help also.

I struggled with this one for the wife. A combination of extra draw weight, pulling the sight in and a peep movement got her to over 100 yards. Just don't let her out shoot you in June...

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[tkhuntsman]

Best option is to get a good 5 pin sight with dual indicators (black gold, spot hog, axcel they all have the option) set it up so your 40 yard pin is close to centered ( 3rd pin). Use your housing adjustments to do this. Then do your 30 and 20 yard pins (second and first). Adjust pins only. Then do a 50 yard pin under the 40 adjust the pin only. Set your first indicator and star your tape at 50 with the dial all the way at the top position. Take your last pin (5th one down) set it 1/8 inch above your level at the bottom of your sight. It's probably going to be close to 75 or 80 yards you will have to do some shooting to figure this out. Set your second indicator to whatever that pin ends up being sighted for. Dial your sight down with an arrow knocked until it's 1.75" above your arrow to the bottom of your housing. Draw a red line on your tape next to whatever distance your 50 yard indicator stops at and a green line at whatever distance your bottom indicator stops at. Now you know both max yardages and it's probably going to be farther than anybody should reasonably shoot a bow. Some sights out there will have a dial stop that you can set at your bottom position so that you can't go past it just have to do a little research to figure out which ones.

 

[sndmn11]

Seems to me that essentially any bow with similar IBO, Brace Height, and Riser Length (seems like adv to Nexus on this one, but not sure how much 2.5" matters).

Thoughts?

I think this is accurate.

Vane orientation, sight housing size, moving the sight towards your eye, are possible helpers.

If you REALLY wanted to shoot through the summer with a flatter trajectory, dropping 100grains in total arrow weight is the easiest solution. Then switch back to your hunting arrows a month before the season starts.

 

[TX_hunter]

To answer your original question if "70 is 70", not exactly, but with the 2 specific bows you mentioned, close enough.

Any 2 bows that shoot the same arrow at the same speed (regardless of draw weight), will have the same trajectory limitations assuming everything else is equal.

If you switch bows just to get more range, you'll be disappointed.

For more range:
Raise your peep.
Bring sight closer to the bow.
Run a pin as close to the bottom of the housing as you can, and/or use the top of the level to aim.
More draw weight/less arrow weight.
Smaller sight housing.
4 fletch, or flip your arrow upside down so cock vane is down. This lets you dial housing down right to the arrow shaft and the fletching makes an "X" under the sight housing.

 

[philcox]

Thx all. Got my answer(s):
- 70 is 70 (in this bow to bow situation)

Suggestions I may try:
- raise peep (if I can move sight housing to keep good anchor point)
- Drop arrow weight - did that as much as I can given my components: XT Hunter, Lighted Nock, 28.25” arrow, 125 BH - puts me at ~440. (I want to shoot the same arrow weight that I hunt with, because I want to understand the trajectory for those “can I get it under that limb or over that limb shot.”
- Move sight closer: it’s on a fixed base, so it is where it is, but I could look at potentially getting a dovetail base for it.
- add pins: not doable as I am shooting a fast steady XLtwo pin. I tried the horizontal pin, black gold, but I am always much more accurate with a vertical pin site. I guess I could try to look at the new spot hog three pin, vertical adjustable, but not sure I wanna completely change my site at this point.

It is likely, I’m going to maintain what I have, and live with the Clint Eastwood wisdom of “A man’s gotta know his limitations”


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