Patched roundball range day

[HighUintas]

Barrel was cleaned with hot water this morning. Swabbed as before and then 3 patches.

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After the 15 shots today, heavy spit patch swabbing. Left to right-
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Then reloaded and out one more for the head at 100y. Aiming 6 o’clock, a bit too much. Brown head against a brown background is tricky.

View attachment 1005422

Good shooting. What's your POA if your aiming 30" high? Another silhouette/target on top of that one?

 

[Formidilosus]

Good shooting. What's your POA if your aiming 30" high? Another silhouette/target on top of that one?

Yes sir. For now using a second aiming point. I’m trying to see if PRB’s can be consistent enough for distance shooting. If/when the Kibler comes in, I’ll put Jeager style flip up sights on it zeroed for distance.

 

[HighUintas]

Yes sir. For now using a second aiming point. I’m trying to see if PRB’s can be consistent enough for distance shooting. If/when the Kibler comes in, I’ll put Jeager style flip up sights on it zeroed for distance.
View attachment 1005745

How much do you think a globe crosshair and peep would increase your accuracy at 200?

 

[Formidilosus]

How much do you think a globe crosshair and peep would increase your accuracy at 200?

A bit, but my group shooting is pretty solid with regular irons. Most of the size of initial 10 round group was wind. The biggest issue I am having, is the sights themselves. The rear notch was opened up pretty wide, and the brass front is tricky to tell where you are elevation wise if there is any light on it.
The brass front is nice in low light as you can aim with it due to the glint well i to twilight, but on light colors- like the white of the paper, or the cardboard it’s very easy to be off the edge of the black and into the paper without realizing it.

 

[mtnwrunner]

A bit, but my group shooting is pretty solid with regular irons. Most of the size of initial 10 round group was wind. The biggest issue I am having, is the sights themselves. The rear notch was opened up pretty wide, and the brass front is tricky to tell where you are elevation wise if there is any light on it.
The brass front is nice in low light as you can aim with it due to the glint well i to twilight, but on light colors- like the white of the paper, or the cardboard it’s very easy to be off the edge of the black and into the paper without realizing it.

Wait till you get old........

 

[Formidilosus]

Wait till you get old........

I’ll get one of them glass eyes like Tanya.

 

[NDHUNTER24]

I’ll get one of them glass eyes like Tanya.

Not sure if this is what your referring to, but Scleral lenses do help a lot. I didnt realize what i was missing until i got mine.

 

[HighUintas]

A bit, but my group shooting is pretty solid with regular irons. Most of the size of initial 10 round group was wind. The biggest issue I am having, is the sights themselves. The rear notch was opened up pretty wide, and the brass front is tricky to tell where you are elevation wise if there is any light on it.
The brass front is nice in low light as you can aim with it due to the glint well i to twilight, but on light colors- like the white of the paper, or the cardboard it’s very easy to be off the edge of the black and into the paper without realizing it.

Ya getting those iron sights dialed for the conditions you're in most takes a bit of doing, or at least it took me awhile to learn what works best.

I cut the rear facing part of my front post (nickel silver) at a very slight angle towards me so that no light reflects back. Then file and polish the tiniest 45* bevel at the top of the post so you can get some light reflected back in low light and it's always a reflection from the same point on the post rather than what happens when the whole rear is a convex curve. If in real bright conditions, a matte black marker helps eliminate the reflection if needed. I ended up just going without that bevel because I don't want to fiddle with the marker and it seems I'm able to see nearly to end of shooting light without it.

I prefer my rear pretty wide rear notch so I have a better view of the target on each side of the post, and it seems to work better for me, but not totally sure. It makes keeping elevation consistent a little harder I think.

 

[Natty]

The biggest issue I am having, is the sights themselves. The rear notch was opened up pretty wide, and the brass front is tricky to tell where you are elevation wise if there is any light on it.

This is my struggle with the "traditional" sights found on most guns. Shaders will help some with this. Shift in POI due to lighting/vision is a thing with these types of sights. So is eye strain if shooting in volume in less than ideal lighting conditions.

 

[Formidilosus]

Ya getting those iron sights dialed for the conditions you're in most takes a bit of doing, or at least it took me awhile to learn what works best.

I cut the rear facing part of my front post (nickel silver) at a very slight angle towards me so that no light reflects back. Then file and polish the tiniest 45* bevel at the top of the post so you can get some light reflected back in low light and it's always a reflection from the same point on the post rather than what happens when the whole rear is a convex curve. If in real bright conditions, a matte black marker helps eliminate the reflection if needed. I ended up just going without that bevel because I don't want to fiddle with the marker and it seems I'm able to see nearly to end of shooting light without it.

That’s exactly what I plan to do. Just smoking this front sight would drastically help I think.

I prefer my rear pretty wide rear notch so I have a better view of the target on each side of the post, and it seems to work better for me, but not totally sure. It makes keeping elevation consistent a little harder I think.

The way these are now is actually really good for hunting, especially in lower light.