NRL hunter

[wind gypsy]

I’ve got some Zamberlan boots I planned on wearing with alpaca/merino socks. Sounds like the layering matches my plan, probably merino+fleece/sweatshirt+vest under the proximity.

Have some gloves from work that have thinsulate and are waterproof, figured merino liners under them and maybe leave them on to shoot. Hot hands will definitely make an appearance lol.

I generally hate gloves with significant insulation. Just liner or shell gloves that keep your hands warm when active and pockets/muff with handwarmer or Choppers (leather insulated mittens) when not active enough for the gloves to be sufficient.

 

[wpeach1912]

I’ve got some Zamberlan boots I planned on wearing with alpaca/merino socks. Sounds like the layering matches my plan, probably merino+fleece/sweatshirt+vest under the proximity.

Have some gloves from work that have thinsulate and are waterproof, figured merino liners under them and maybe leave them on to shoot. Hot hands will definitely make an appearance lol.

That should be fine. I’d probably put your binos on under your proximity jacket so you can shed that if needed. I always keep a rain jacket in my pack and you can cover your legs and feet with that when sitting for some extra warmth.

 

[id_jon]

Lesson i just learned at a uspsa match, keep your hands/wrists WARM all the time, losing dexterity sucks, especially if you're shooting single stack! That said, you can handle being cold for 4 minutes. I'll never shoot another stage with a thick jacket on again. Stay warm when you're not shooting and wear the best layers for shooting while you are shooting. That way you don't have to worry about your bulky jacket or your gloves affecting your shot.

 

[passinggas33]

So question for the more experienced guys with NRL…I’m just looking to do this for my first time and sign up for 2 matches. Am really debating between doing them as skills versus individual, at least for these first two. Regardless that’s not the question I have.

All of my current guns are right at 8 pounds ready to roll, which makes it difficult (not impossible) to spot shots consistently. So I’ve been debating on buying a new gun to start this journey. I want to try and stay with the “factory division” initially, but then possibly move to open light. So this has made me curious on what people would recommend on caliber? If I was just doing factory I would buy a 6CM (even though I already have one, but is FAR from factory). But with the possibility of entering open light I was thinking a 6.5CM. Is this probably the best option for both classifications? Will be obviously keeping it under 13#s to make factory.

My initial plan and would like critiquing is…
Sig Cross in 6.5 CM
Nightforce NX8 2.5-20x50
Tricer Bipod (once the pan feature is removed)
Shoot factory Hornady 130 ELDM (so power factor doesn’t count against me in open light)
Suppressor

And one more question, on an sig cross that has a handguard, can I just add a arca rail to the handguard and it still be considered “factory”? Since there aren’t action screws, would a simple mlok version still count or does that not keep it factory?

Again, apologize for the thoughts and questions. But just starting down the road and would love insight from experienced people.

 

[alexnelon]

So question for the more experienced guys with NRL…I’m just looking to do this for my first time and sign up for 2 matches. Am really debating between doing them as skills versus individual, at least for these first two. Regardless that’s not the question I have.

All of my current guns are right at 8 pounds ready to roll, which makes it difficult (not impossible) to spot shots consistently. So I’ve been debating on buying a new gun to start this journey. I want to try and stay with the “factory division” initially, but then possibly move to open light. So this has made me curious on what people would recommend on caliber? If I was just doing factory I would buy a 6CM (even though I already have one, but is FAR from factory). But with the possibility of entering open light I was thinking a 6.5CM. Is this probably the best option for both classifications? Will be obviously keeping it under 13#s to make factory.

My initial plan and would like critiquing is…
Sig Cross in 6.5 CM
Nightforce NX8 2.5-20x50
Tricer Bipod (once the pan feature is removed)
Shoot factory Hornady 130 ELDM (so power factor doesn’t count against me in open light)
Suppressor

And one more question, on an sig cross that has a handguard, can I just add a arca rail to the handguard and it still be considered “factory”? Since there aren’t action screws, would a simple mlok version still count or does that not keep it factory?

Again, apologize for the thoughts and questions. But just starting down the road and would love insight from experienced people.

You really should shoot skills a couple of times with what you already have and then answer these questions yourself.

 

[6.5x284]

So question for the more experienced guys with NRL…I’m just looking to do this for my first time and sign up for 2 matches. Am really debating between doing them as skills versus individual, at least for these first two. Regardless that’s not the question I have.

All of my current guns are right at 8 pounds ready to roll, which makes it difficult (not impossible) to spot shots consistently. So I’ve been debating on buying a new gun to start this journey. I want to try and stay with the “factory division” initially, but then possibly move to open light. So this has made me curious on what people would recommend on caliber? If I was just doing factory I would buy a 6CM (even though I already have one, but is FAR from factory). But with the possibility of entering open light I was thinking a 6.5CM. Is this probably the best option for both classifications? Will be obviously keeping it under 13#s to make factory.

My initial plan and would like critiquing is…
Sig Cross in 6.5 CM
Nightforce NX8 2.5-20x50
Tricer Bipod (once the pan feature is removed)
Shoot factory Hornady 130 ELDM (so power factor doesn’t count against me in open light)
Suppressor

And one more question, on an sig cross that has a handguard, can I just add a arca rail to the handguard and it still be considered “factory”? Since there aren’t action screws, would a simple mlok version still count or does that not keep it factory?

Again, apologize for the thoughts and questions. But just starting down the road and would love insight from experienced people.

I agree, roll with what you have and try other people’s setups while you are there. I would bet you won’t want to stay in factory and you’ll want to move up to open light or maybe even open heavy if you catch the bug.

I would get behind a few different chassis and look to buy a chassis you can put your barreled actions into to get you to that 12lb mark.


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[ruger35]

Shooting skills would be a good way to decide what you like. I went all the way to Alaska last year for my first comp as a team, but I knew I’d be shooting custom anyway.

I would say factory would serve you well if you already have hunting rifles and this will only be a competition gun. I can use my comp gun as a hunting rifles, so it serves both. I will say it seems some of the more “pro” shooters per se, are shooting factory. So I don’t think being in the factory division will increase your chances if you have that thought.

 

[passinggas33]

I agree, roll with what you have and try other people’s setups while you are there. I would bet you won’t want to stay in factory and you’ll want to move up to open light or maybe even open heavy if you catch the bug.

I would get behind a few different chassis and look to buy a chassis you can put your barreled actions into to get you to that 12lb mark.


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I actually already have the HNT26 and XLR chassis. Shoot both of them about the same so don’t have a strong preference. They just both end up in the mid 8 pounds with their current set up. So if I was going to go this route I would likely be adding a lot of weight but still wouldn’t make power factor with any of those rifles. I’ve gone to 22CM, 6ARC and 6CM for almost all of hunting rigs. From there I step up to 280AI or 300 WM. Not ideal for matches from a recoil standpoint, I would assume.

So based on that I figured I would still have to buy a new caliber just for power factor if I did anything other than skill. Or at least that’s my understanding around this.

 

[6.5x284]

I actually already have the HNT26 and XLR chassis. Shoot both of them about the same so don’t have a strong preference. They just both end up in the mid 8 pounds with their current set up. So if I was going to go this route I would likely be adding a lot of weight but still wouldn’t make power factor with any of those rifles. I’ve gone to 22CM, 6ARC and 6CM for almost all of hunting rigs. From there I step up to 280AI or 300 WM. Not ideal for matches from a recoil standpoint, I would assume.

So based on that I figured I would still have to buy a new caliber just for power factor if I did anything other than skill. Or at least that’s my understanding around this.

In that case I’d throw the 6 creed in the XLR and go have some fun in the skills division. Would be great hunting practice. Depending on the action you can find lots of certs people resell from matches pretty cheap for barrels and could get into a heavier barrel to up some weight down the road if you like the matches. Bipod weight counts too so throw one on. They aren’t cheap but you could add a triple pull with weight to spare.


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[passinggas33]

AGAIN LIMITED UNDERSTANDING, but It seems most guys are shooting 6.5CM in the various levels to make power factor but keep recoil minimum. Is this correct?

 

[ruger35]

I say if you have the chassis already then just go head first and get you a 25CM or 6.5CM barrel and put it together in one of the chassis. 25CM would take a longer barrel to get velocity for power factory, which it sounds like you have plenty of room for weight. Or get a 6.5CM and call it the easy button.

 

[Pilsner]

I generally hate gloves with significant insulation. Just liner or shell gloves that keep your hands warm when active and pockets/muff with handwarmer or Choppers (leather insulated mittens) when not active enough for the gloves to be sufficient.

I finally got around to giving the clothing question so thought. I grew up outdoors and feral in the Midwest and have done more than a few winter warfare type courses while on active duty, so I know at most 1/3 of my own a$$ from a hole in the ground when it comes to cold weather. Now I am just older, fatter, more broken, and less tolerant of either hot or cold.
I, too, hate thick gloves/mitts. The use of merino wool liner gloves or army surplus Nomex flight gloves are awesome when paired with a waist belt mounted hand warmer muff + some hot hand packs. I picked the first one up out for a Wally World clearance aisle for sub-$20. I have since upgraded to a Banded (it is from some waterfowl gear company... Gator-Waders? Simms? Who knows as the label has long ago worn off) Gore-Tex and fleece version with a couple of zippered pockets to hold hand warmers along with other small items that you want to keep both handy and thawed out - aka snacks!
I'd also recommend a buff of some type to keep wind off of your neck, face, and from blowing snow or icy air down the back of your jacket when shooting prone into the wind.
Personally, I despise rubber muck style boots - pack boots with removable liners are the bomb.
A Gore-Tex set of packable rain gear + gaiters is well worth its weight just for its ability to block wind and keep your layers dry when in contact with the ground, even when the ground is frozen.

 

[ruger35]

I finally got around to giving the clothing question so thought. I grew up outdoors and feral in the Midwest and have done more than a few winter warfare type courses while on active duty, so I know at most 1/3 of my own a$$ from a hole in the ground when it comes to cold weather. Now I am just older, fatter, more broken, and less tolerant of either hot or cold.
I, too, hate thick gloves/mitts. The use of merino wool liner gloves or army surplus Nomex flight gloves are awesome when paired with a waist belt mounted hand warmer muff + some hot hand packs. I picked the first one up out for a Wally World clearance aisle for sub-$20. I have since upgraded to a Banded (it is from some waterfowl gear company... Gator-Waders? Simms? Who knows as the label has long ago worn off) Gore-Tex and fleece version with a couple of zippered pockets to hold hand warmers along with other small items that you want to keep both handy and thawed out - aka snacks!
I'd also recommend a buff of some type to keep wind off of your neck, face, and from blowing snow or icy air down the back of your jacket when shooting prone into the wind.
Personally, I despise rubber muck style boots - pack boots with removable liners are the bomb.
A Gore-Tex set of packable rain gear + gaiters is well worth its weight just for its ability to block wind and keep your layers dry when in contact with the ground, even when the ground is frozen.

I’m glad you mentioned a hand warmer muff as I forgot I have one (don’t use it often down here). I also have a merino neck gaiter I need to find. I bought some new heavyweight Born Primitive pants for the cold, but did plan on using my Goretex rain pants to block the wind.

Thanks!

 

[wind gypsy]

AGAIN LIMITED UNDERSTANDING, but It seems most guys are shooting 6.5CM in the various levels to make power factor but keep recoil minimum. Is this correct?

That’s correct. 25 creed is kind of the gamer maximized external ballistics lowest recoil option but 6.5 creed is right there.

A heavy bipod, suppressor, and maybe some chassis weights and your 8# gun gets to 12# quick.

 

[Bobrobheimer]

Anyone here going to shoot the winter games 1 day match at Cameo here in a few weeks? Looks like a nice venue.

 

[passinggas33]

Newbie question again. Sorry. Help me understand the adding of an arca rail rule.


From the rule book:
“May I add PICATINNY or ARCA rail to my rifle?

YES, ARCA or picatinny rails must use factory mounting points. You may not drill or modify your factory stock/chassis for install.”


After reviewing the rule, I guess I’m a little confused on if a handguard like the cross has would mean that any hole in the handguard could be used as a “mounting point”? Am I looking too much into this? Just don’t want to go down a specific path and then have issues.

And ultimately who makes the call on whether it still qualifies for factory or not? Is there a governing body I could call?

Arca Rail – SIG Cross

This arca rail is custom tailored to the SIG Cross chassis. All the same benefits of the strength in a lightweight package, without the guesswork.

sokeksolutions.com

Thanks again everybody for your insight and help. I promise one of these days I’ll stop being a newb in regards to NRL. Someday.

 

[ID_Matt]

Newbie question again. Sorry. Help me understand the adding of an arca rail rule.


From the rule book:
“May I add PICATINNY or ARCA rail to my rifle?

YES, ARCA or picatinny rails must use factory mounting points. You may not drill or modify your factory stock/chassis for install.”


After reviewing the rule, I guess I’m a little confused on if a handguard like the cross has would mean that any hole in the handguard could be used as a “mounting point”? Am I looking too much into this? Just don’t want to go down a specific path and then have issues.

And ultimately who makes the call on whether it still qualifies for factory or not? Is there a governing body I could call?

Arca Rail – SIG Cross

This arca rail is custom tailored to the SIG Cross chassis. All the same benefits of the strength in a lightweight package, without the guesswork.

sokeksolutions.com

Thanks again everybody for your insight and help. I promise one of these days I’ll stop being a newb in regards to NRL. Someday.

You just can't drill a new hole in a stock to mount one. Cross is all MLOK so no problems attaching whatever you want.

 

[passinggas33]

Thanks. I was afraid I was looking too far into this. Thanks for the clarification.