NRL hunter

[wind gypsy]

I’ve got some Zamberlan boots I planned on wearing with alpaca/merino socks. Sounds like the layering matches my plan, probably merino+fleece/sweatshirt+vest under the proximity.

Have some gloves from work that have thinsulate and are waterproof, figured merino liners under them and maybe leave them on to shoot. Hot hands will definitely make an appearance lol.

I generally hate gloves with significant insulation. Just liner or shell gloves that keep your hands warm when active and pockets/muff with handwarmer or Choppers (leather insulated mittens) when not active enough for the gloves to be sufficient.

 

[wpeach1912]

I’ve got some Zamberlan boots I planned on wearing with alpaca/merino socks. Sounds like the layering matches my plan, probably merino+fleece/sweatshirt+vest under the proximity.

Have some gloves from work that have thinsulate and are waterproof, figured merino liners under them and maybe leave them on to shoot. Hot hands will definitely make an appearance lol.

That should be fine. I’d probably put your binos on under your proximity jacket so you can shed that if needed. I always keep a rain jacket in my pack and you can cover your legs and feet with that when sitting for some extra warmth.

 

[id_jon]

Lesson i just learned at a uspsa match, keep your hands/wrists WARM all the time, losing dexterity sucks, especially if you're shooting single stack! That said, you can handle being cold for 4 minutes. I'll never shoot another stage with a thick jacket on again. Stay warm when you're not shooting and wear the best layers for shooting while you are shooting. That way you don't have to worry about your bulky jacket or your gloves affecting your shot.

 

[passinggas33]

So question for the more experienced guys with NRL…I’m just looking to do this for my first time and sign up for 2 matches. Am really debating between doing them as skills versus individual, at least for these first two. Regardless that’s not the question I have.

All of my current guns are right at 8 pounds ready to roll, which makes it difficult (not impossible) to spot shots consistently. So I’ve been debating on buying a new gun to start this journey. I want to try and stay with the “factory division” initially, but then possibly move to open light. So this has made me curious on what people would recommend on caliber? If I was just doing factory I would buy a 6CM (even though I already have one, but is FAR from factory). But with the possibility of entering open light I was thinking a 6.5CM. Is this probably the best option for both classifications? Will be obviously keeping it under 13#s to make factory.

My initial plan and would like critiquing is…
Sig Cross in 6.5 CM
Nightforce NX8 2.5-20x50
Tricer Bipod (once the pan feature is removed)
Shoot factory Hornady 130 ELDM (so power factor doesn’t count against me in open light)
Suppressor

And one more question, on an sig cross that has a handguard, can I just add a arca rail to the handguard and it still be considered “factory”? Since there aren’t action screws, would a simple mlok version still count or does that not keep it factory?

Again, apologize for the thoughts and questions. But just starting down the road and would love insight from experienced people.

 

[alexnelon]

So question for the more experienced guys with NRL…I’m just looking to do this for my first time and sign up for 2 matches. Am really debating between doing them as skills versus individual, at least for these first two. Regardless that’s not the question I have.

All of my current guns are right at 8 pounds ready to roll, which makes it difficult (not impossible) to spot shots consistently. So I’ve been debating on buying a new gun to start this journey. I want to try and stay with the “factory division” initially, but then possibly move to open light. So this has made me curious on what people would recommend on caliber? If I was just doing factory I would buy a 6CM (even though I already have one, but is FAR from factory). But with the possibility of entering open light I was thinking a 6.5CM. Is this probably the best option for both classifications? Will be obviously keeping it under 13#s to make factory.

My initial plan and would like critiquing is…
Sig Cross in 6.5 CM
Nightforce NX8 2.5-20x50
Tricer Bipod (once the pan feature is removed)
Shoot factory Hornady 130 ELDM (so power factor doesn’t count against me in open light)
Suppressor

And one more question, on an sig cross that has a handguard, can I just add a arca rail to the handguard and it still be considered “factory”? Since there aren’t action screws, would a simple mlok version still count or does that not keep it factory?

Again, apologize for the thoughts and questions. But just starting down the road and would love insight from experienced people.

You really should shoot skills a couple of times with what you already have and then answer these questions yourself.

 

[6.5x284]

So question for the more experienced guys with NRL…I’m just looking to do this for my first time and sign up for 2 matches. Am really debating between doing them as skills versus individual, at least for these first two. Regardless that’s not the question I have.

All of my current guns are right at 8 pounds ready to roll, which makes it difficult (not impossible) to spot shots consistently. So I’ve been debating on buying a new gun to start this journey. I want to try and stay with the “factory division” initially, but then possibly move to open light. So this has made me curious on what people would recommend on caliber? If I was just doing factory I would buy a 6CM (even though I already have one, but is FAR from factory). But with the possibility of entering open light I was thinking a 6.5CM. Is this probably the best option for both classifications? Will be obviously keeping it under 13#s to make factory.

My initial plan and would like critiquing is…
Sig Cross in 6.5 CM
Nightforce NX8 2.5-20x50
Tricer Bipod (once the pan feature is removed)
Shoot factory Hornady 130 ELDM (so power factor doesn’t count against me in open light)
Suppressor

And one more question, on an sig cross that has a handguard, can I just add a arca rail to the handguard and it still be considered “factory”? Since there aren’t action screws, would a simple mlok version still count or does that not keep it factory?

Again, apologize for the thoughts and questions. But just starting down the road and would love insight from experienced people.

I agree, roll with what you have and try other people’s setups while you are there. I would bet you won’t want to stay in factory and you’ll want to move up to open light or maybe even open heavy if you catch the bug.

I would get behind a few different chassis and look to buy a chassis you can put your barreled actions into to get you to that 12lb mark.


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[ruger35]

Shooting skills would be a good way to decide what you like. I went all the way to Alaska last year for my first comp as a team, but I knew I’d be shooting custom anyway.

I would say factory would serve you well if you already have hunting rifles and this will only be a competition gun. I can use my comp gun as a hunting rifles, so it serves both. I will say it seems some of the more “pro” shooters per se, are shooting factory. So I don’t think being in the factory division will increase your chances if you have that thought.