- Thread Starter
- #21
Lots of good information in your reply thanks. I guess when a rifle shoots great you worry less about wieght.
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What's the advantage of a 20 or 25 moa rail just more elevation for your scope? Are all quality rails created equal? Are most LR scopes 50/52mm is there any advantages to the larger objective besides the obvious?Cartridge - You've got a 0.470 bolt face on the 30-06, so magnums would be out for me since it's not worth it to open up the bolt face or buy an aftermarket bolt (just my opinion). A 280AI will get you to 800 yard targets and 600 yard game easy enough, and there's available factory ammo.
Barrel Manufacturer - I've had Bartlein, Benchmark, and Proofs - they all shoot great. I wouldn't be afraid to try any other big name. A good steel barrel will run +/- $325.
Barrel Contour - For me, a #4 is about as small as I care to go. If I want to save weight, I will use a Proof Carbon Barrel. Fluting the barrel is a waste of money unless you really need the look. If you want to save weight that bad, just get a smaller contour.
Brakes - Brakes have become an accessory that guys seem to buy 'just because'. There's really no reason for a brake, especially on a non-magnum cartridge. They unnecessarily add noise and concussion that makes shooting less fun. You should be able to spot impacts without a brake. If you need a brake to stay on target, your fundamentals need work.
Stock - A quality stock that fits you is probably the most important upgrade to a rifle in my mind. A good barrel that is chambered by someone that knows what they are doing will yield the greatest gains in terms of mechanical accuracy. But a stock that fits is the most important item in terms of interfacing the shooting with the 'dumb machine' that is your rifle. You can get a KRG Bravo for pretty cheap, and there's a lot of adjustability to fit the shooter, but they are comparatively heavy. If you want good ergos and be light weight (Manners, McMillan, etc.) it will be more expensive.
Gun Smith - Lots of great gun smiths out there. I'd expect +/- $325 to chamber the barrel. I would also pay to blueprint the action, which will be +/- $200. You can get lost in all the little extras (better extractor, upgrade ejector, upgrade base threads to 8-40, flute bolt, larger bolt knob, side bolt release, etc. etc. etc.). When you add a few of the small upgrades, it's more cost effective to just buy a Bighorn Origin or similar in the $800 range.
Optic - If you're budget is $2,200, I think you'll spend ~$950 for barrel, gunsmith (chamber + blueprint) and shipping. Hawkins long range hybrids are ~$120, so you have about $1,130 for optic. @gr8fuldoug has the 4.5-18 LRTS for ~$750 (ish) range that is about 28 oz. A NF SHV is in your price range and weighs 30 oz, Burris XTR II is ~30oz, Vortex LHT is about 20 oz - tons of options out there. Like you said, this is a whole other bearcat.
Optic Mount - I prefer rails and rings, but they will be more expensive and heavier than the Hawkins Hybrids. Anymore, if I were to use single piece ring/base, I'd go the Hawkins route.
Thanks you confirmed a lot I was thinking about.Good choice in caliber.
So many good barrels out there. Use what your smith prefers and has access to. I’d go 24” and 8 twist.
I have a 7mag on a fluted Benchmark #4 that I think is just about ideal. Got a Bartlein 2b that is similar too. A heavy sporter contour is what you want. Personally, I like fluting yes for the looks but also because I can go up a contour and it weighs about the same as the one less.
Get your 700 trued and squared. Most Smiths will do this with a bbl job. You can also slab out the sides of the receiver, drill the handle and put an aluminum knob on the bolt to save weight.
nothing wrong with your B&C stock but there are lighter choices. My favorite hunting stock is a McMillian Hunter with edge fill. But that will add $500 to your job. I do not understand the appeal of a chassis stock. Tactidork if you ask me, but I’m a traditionalist.
I wouldn’t brake it unless you were committed to wearing ear plugs. I also don’t think you need it on your choice in caliber. If I did go this route, I’d want it threaded with the option of a thread protector when you remove it.
Just use Talley Lightweight rings. No need for a rail. Talleys are light and effective. They offer plenty for the ranges you mentioned. I would drill/tap out the receiver holes to 8-40.
Swarovski Z5 3.5-18x44 is the best long ish range capable scope out there if you are worried about weight. There is one for sale here off a Kimber rifle for $1000. 16 oz. with custom turrets you should be able to get to 700 no problem.
I see roughly about $1200-1600 in your gunsmithing work depending on options you choose, sans new stock.
good luck!
Appreciate the recommendation I'll checking into them.Where is it you live Sam?
I'd highly suggest calling Travis at Rbros
Excellent gunsmith, great guy, very helpful and is very honest about what works and doesn't.
You may have a wait.
But it will be super legit.
Sounds like a great rifle. What's it wieght? What load are you shooting with the 9 twist? Seems a bunch of guys are recommending the 8 twist. I'm leaning towards 162 eld xI like what you have in mind so here is a list of my rifle it may help.
Built by Phoenix Custom Rifles: https://www.phoenixcustomrifles.com/
Remington 700 action trued
Trigger Tech Special
PTG one piece bolt, M 16 extractor and fluted firing pin assembly
Brux #3 contour SS, 1/9 TWIST finished at 26.25 inches and chambered in 280 AI
Cerakoted in Armor black
Grey Boe Terrain stock bedded
Seekins base/rings
This rifle shoots .2/.4 with hunting bullets. Even with the factory ammo I have shot out of it meets or exceeds their 1/2 inch guarantee. I cant recommend these guys enough.
My dad's good friends with the local range master. Anyways that guy has had a couple rifles built by a local smith and he recommended him. I'm going to go shoot one of his rifles tomorrow.One mans opinion: find the closest smith to your house with a good reputation, true the action face, put a new barrel on it and be done with it. Consider if the mag length and throat will jive with the bullet and coal you want.
Smith fees add up quick and sinking bucks into a rem700 is low return on investment game.
Sounds like a great rifle. What's it wieght? What load are you shooting with the 9 twist? Seems a bunch of guys are recommending the 8 twist. I'm leaning towards 162 eld x
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My thoughts:
The difference between a “long range rifle” and a standard accurate rifle is more about the attributes that make the rifle easier to shoot accurately than it just being accurate. Things like weight, stock shape and fit, trigger, and ability to spot impacts are the difference makers.
Can you elaborate on what you think are the right aspects for wieght, stock shape and trigger. I full agree that spotting impacts is critical.
Also what's considered long range now days? To me it seems lots of choices can get it done in the 500/600 range but going further and it narrows choices quickly.
What's some good specs on a rifle that can be carried all day but still reach out there when needed? Thanks trying to take it all in
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