Novice diving in head first needs advice

[realunlucky]

Lots of good information in your reply thanks. I guess when a rifle shoots great you worry less about wieght.

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[realunlucky]

Cartridge - You've got a 0.470 bolt face on the 30-06, so magnums would be out for me since it's not worth it to open up the bolt face or buy an aftermarket bolt (just my opinion). A 280AI will get you to 800 yard targets and 600 yard game easy enough, and there's available factory ammo.

Barrel Manufacturer - I've had Bartlein, Benchmark, and Proofs - they all shoot great. I wouldn't be afraid to try any other big name. A good steel barrel will run +/- $325.

Barrel Contour - For me, a #4 is about as small as I care to go. If I want to save weight, I will use a Proof Carbon Barrel. Fluting the barrel is a waste of money unless you really need the look. If you want to save weight that bad, just get a smaller contour.

Brakes - Brakes have become an accessory that guys seem to buy 'just because'. There's really no reason for a brake, especially on a non-magnum cartridge. They unnecessarily add noise and concussion that makes shooting less fun. You should be able to spot impacts without a brake. If you need a brake to stay on target, your fundamentals need work.

Stock - A quality stock that fits you is probably the most important upgrade to a rifle in my mind. A good barrel that is chambered by someone that knows what they are doing will yield the greatest gains in terms of mechanical accuracy. But a stock that fits is the most important item in terms of interfacing the shooting with the 'dumb machine' that is your rifle. You can get a KRG Bravo for pretty cheap, and there's a lot of adjustability to fit the shooter, but they are comparatively heavy. If you want good ergos and be light weight (Manners, McMillan, etc.) it will be more expensive.

Gun Smith - Lots of great gun smiths out there. I'd expect +/- $325 to chamber the barrel. I would also pay to blueprint the action, which will be +/- $200. You can get lost in all the little extras (better extractor, upgrade ejector, upgrade base threads to 8-40, flute bolt, larger bolt knob, side bolt release, etc. etc. etc.). When you add a few of the small upgrades, it's more cost effective to just buy a Bighorn Origin or similar in the $800 range.

Optic - If you're budget is $2,200, I think you'll spend ~$950 for barrel, gunsmith (chamber + blueprint) and shipping. Hawkins long range hybrids are ~$120, so you have about $1,130 for optic. @gr8fuldoug has the 4.5-18 LRTS for ~$750 (ish) range that is about 28 oz. A NF SHV is in your price range and weighs 30 oz, Burris XTR II is ~30oz, Vortex LHT is about 20 oz - tons of options out there. Like you said, this is a whole other bearcat.

Optic Mount - I prefer rails and rings, but they will be more expensive and heavier than the Hawkins Hybrids. Anymore, if I were to use single piece ring/base, I'd go the Hawkins route.

What's the advantage of a 20 or 25 moa rail just more elevation for your scope? Are all quality rails created equal? Are most LR scopes 50/52mm is there any advantages to the larger objective besides the obvious?

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[realunlucky]

Good choice in caliber.

So many good barrels out there. Use what your smith prefers and has access to. I’d go 24” and 8 twist.

I have a 7mag on a fluted Benchmark #4 that I think is just about ideal. Got a Bartlein 2b that is similar too. A heavy sporter contour is what you want. Personally, I like fluting yes for the looks but also because I can go up a contour and it weighs about the same as the one less.

Get your 700 trued and squared. Most Smiths will do this with a bbl job. You can also slab out the sides of the receiver, drill the handle and put an aluminum knob on the bolt to save weight.

nothing wrong with your B&C stock but there are lighter choices. My favorite hunting stock is a McMillian Hunter with edge fill. But that will add $500 to your job. I do not understand the appeal of a chassis stock. Tactidork if you ask me, but I’m a traditionalist.

I wouldn’t brake it unless you were committed to wearing ear plugs. I also don’t think you need it on your choice in caliber. If I did go this route, I’d want it threaded with the option of a thread protector when you remove it.

Just use Talley Lightweight rings. No need for a rail. Talleys are light and effective. They offer plenty for the ranges you mentioned. I would drill/tap out the receiver holes to 8-40.

Swarovski Z5 3.5-18x44 is the best long ish range capable scope out there if you are worried about weight. There is one for sale here off a Kimber rifle for $1000. 16 oz. with custom turrets you should be able to get to 700 no problem.

I see roughly about $1200-1600 in your gunsmithing work depending on options you choose, sans new stock.

good luck!

Thanks you confirmed a lot I was thinking about.


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[realunlucky]

Where is it you live Sam?
I'd highly suggest calling Travis at Rbros
Excellent gunsmith, great guy, very helpful and is very honest about what works and doesn't.
You may have a wait.
But it will be super legit.

Appreciate the recommendation I'll checking into them.

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[Rifles And More]

The canted base gives you more scope adjustment. I run a 100yard zero and everything is up from there.

What is you current magazine box length?
The 30-06 180 is listed at a COL of 3.3"
The 280ai with 162 is listed at 3.325"

Definitely talk with your builder about cartridge and bullet selection. You want to be able to seat bullets where you need to get close to the lands but also reliably feed.

 

[Trogon]

One mans opinion: find the closest smith to your house with a good reputation, true the action face, put a new barrel on it and be done with it. Consider if the mag length and throat will jive with the bullet and coal you want.

Smith fees add up quick and sinking bucks into a rem700 is low return on investment game.

 

[452b264]

I like what you have in mind so here is a list of my rifle it may help.

Built by Phoenix Custom Rifles: https://www.phoenixcustomrifles.com/


Remington 700 action trued

Trigger Tech Special

PTG one piece bolt, M 16 extractor and fluted firing pin assembly

Brux #3 contour SS, 1/9 TWIST finished at 26.25 inches and chambered in 280 AI

Cerakoted in Armor black

Grey Boe Terrain stock bedded

Hawkins BDL bottom metal

Seekins base/rings

This rifle shoots .2/.4 with hunting bullets. Even with the factory ammo I have shot out of it meets or exceeds their 1/2 inch guarantee. I cant recommend these guys enough.

 

[realunlucky]

I like what you have in mind so here is a list of my rifle it may help.

Built by Phoenix Custom Rifles: https://www.phoenixcustomrifles.com/


Remington 700 action trued

Trigger Tech Special

PTG one piece bolt, M 16 extractor and fluted firing pin assembly

Brux #3 contour SS, 1/9 TWIST finished at 26.25 inches and chambered in 280 AI

Cerakoted in Armor black

Grey Boe Terrain stock bedded

Seekins base/rings

This rifle shoots .2/.4 with hunting bullets. Even with the factory ammo I have shot out of it meets or exceeds their 1/2 inch guarantee. I cant recommend these guys enough.

Sounds like a great rifle. What's it wieght? What load are you shooting with the 9 twist? Seems a bunch of guys are recommending the 8 twist. I'm leaning towards 162 eld x

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[realunlucky]

One mans opinion: find the closest smith to your house with a good reputation, true the action face, put a new barrel on it and be done with it. Consider if the mag length and throat will jive with the bullet and coal you want.

Smith fees add up quick and sinking bucks into a rem700 is low return on investment game.

My dad's good friends with the local range master. Anyways that guy has had a couple rifles built by a local smith and he recommended him. I'm going to go shoot one of his rifles tomorrow.


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[aaronwragg]

Thanks for all the info on this thread. Really helps us newbies out

 

[wind gypsy]

My thoughts:
The difference between a “long range rifle” and a standard accurate rifle is more about the attributes that make the rifle easier to shoot accurately than it just being accurate. Things like weight, stock shape and fit, trigger, and ability to spot impacts are the difference makers.

Maybe my recoil management is suspect but I would not expect to spot my shots worth a crap with a 9# 280ai that doesn’t have an aggressive brake. Being able to spot impacts made a big difference in my progression.

I like the bartlein #3 contour as a balance for a rifle you’ll carry and really don’t want to go lighter based on not having much meat for muzzle threads. A 2b could work but you probably would need 1/2” muzzle threads.

Most 180s stabilize in a 9 twist, I’d get a 8.5 twist. The 175 eldx have been very splashy in my SAUM (same case capacity as a 280ai), I’d think the 162 would be even worse. I’d look at Berger 168s, 175 extreme hunter, 180 hunting vld, 180 hybrid, or 184 f-open.

 

[452b264]

Anything thru 175 gr Berger will stabilize in a 1/9 twist, your 162 gr. eldx will be just fine. You wont go wrong with 1/8.5 though.
I have never weight the rifle but I build it so it would be light enough to pack a good distance but still shoot very well for a hunting rifle. I wouldnt go heavier then a #4 fluted, Bart liens 2b is the same contour as everyones #3. A proof sendero light carbon fiber would also be real nice.

Sounds like a great rifle. What's it wieght? What load are you shooting with the 9 twist? Seems a bunch of guys are recommending the 8 twist. I'm leaning towards 162 eld x

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[realunlucky]

My thoughts:
The difference between a “long range rifle” and a standard accurate rifle is more about the attributes that make the rifle easier to shoot accurately than it just being accurate. Things like weight, stock shape and fit, trigger, and ability to spot impacts are the difference makers.

Can you elaborate on what you think are the right aspects for wieght, stock shape and trigger. I full agree that spotting impacts is critical.

Also what's considered long range now days? To me it seems lots of choices can get it done in the 500/600 range but going further and it narrows choices quickly.

What's some good specs on a rifle that can be carried all day but still reach out there when needed? Thanks trying to take it all in

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[wind gypsy]

Can you elaborate on what you think are the right aspects for wieght, stock shape and trigger. I full agree that spotting impacts is critical.

Also what's considered long range now days? To me it seems lots of choices can get it done in the 500/600 range but going further and it narrows choices quickly.

What's some good specs on a rifle that can be carried all day but still reach out there when needed? Thanks trying to take it all in

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Weight: nothing scientific here, heavier it is the easier it is to shoot well. This is illustrated well by PRS being dominated by mid 20 lb rifles chambered in 6 BR variants.

Stock shape: vertical grip that is close to the trigger so your hand can be in a consistent location and isn’t putting sideways pressure on the stock. Minimal drop at heel so recoil is inline with bore to minimize muzzle rise. At least level comb but ideally negative comb so recoil isn’t pushing the comb into your face unpleasantly and making it harder to spot impacts.

Trigger: I don’t know anything special here, something that breaks clean between 1.5-2.5# pull weight.

I think 7mm is the sweet spot for an all-rounder that gets used on elk. Good weight bullets with high BC without the recoil of the 30 mags. And I think the 280ai/SAUM type case capacities is also the sweet spot. I like rifle/scope weight weight at least 9# with a brake for shooting this type of gun accurately. When I shoot my 9# SAUM with just suppressor I typically can’t spot my impacts.

 

[452b264]

Below is the stock I have on my rifle. It comes with pillars and it fits me perfectly, I wouldnt change any thing. Since they came out the price has increased a bit but they are still a bargain. I paid 264 for mine on sale. My trigger is set at very crisp 1.75 lbs. I didnt put a muzzle break on mine but I cant stand them, IMHO the 280 AI doesn't need one.

Grayboe - Terrain Fiberglass Stock - Remington 700 Long Action BDL - Varmint/Sendero

The Grayboe Terrain fully addresses the essence of a streamlined and minimalist rifle stock design. Its smooth and classic lines make it a natural handling and intuitively pointing stock ideal for hunting or range use.

redhawkrifles.com

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[tdhanses]

I’d recommend a carbon 6 barrel prefit, this will save you about $350 in having it chambered and be about the same price as a stainless barrel blank chambered. Also the barrel install and headspace will be cheap, $100 or less. You can bed your own stock.

I see no reason you can’t do this within your budget unless you have someone do everything for you.

I highly recommend trigger tech triggers.

The terminator brake is expensive but best I’ve seen out there.

 

[Dmtindell]

I'm fairly new as well. There is a lot to take in!

 

[Huntersquest]

As far as the barrel, if you’re going to use a stainless barrel and then flute and cerakote it-a carbon barrel will end up being roughly the same price. I’ve had great success with Proof

 

[realunlucky]

I ordered up a bartlien 2b barrel - sounds like it's a good compromise contour for a relatively light wieght barrel.
I looked hard at the carbon barrels but the cost difference for me was about the price to have the barrel cambered. Hope I don't regret it later

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[Apollo117]

Good choice. I doubt you'll regret it at all.

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