New walnut for an old classic

[Speaks]

Thats some nice looking wood.

 

[eLightfoot]

I will be adding a cheek piece on this stock, so I shift my centreline to give the extra wood needed on the “thicker” side of the stock.

That makes a lot more sense

 

[Decker9]

Been pounding away off and on. Iv cut myself close on my initial cuts with my layout, if I end up with much over a sheet of paper of a gap around the action, I should have enough meat left I can take 1/32 - 1/8 inch off the top in hopes of tightening things up. But that’ll leave me with no room for error on the under side.

It’s been countless in and outs scraping and chiseling away, paying close attention not to screw up the flow of the free float around the barrel screw swell (whatever a guy wants to call it lol), the radiuses are challenging, but that’s part of why I do it I think. Little things like that is what stands out in a nice stock imo.

I already went and started inletting the screw nut that was on the barrel, not thinking to tap it out since we’re not using it. So there will be a dimple in the inlet once finished, but nobody will know! Right?

 

[Wapiti1]

Looks good. Are you setting it up for scope only, or irons and scope? Any cast to it, or straight?

Jeremy

 

[Decker9]

Looks good. Are you setting it up for scope only, or irons and scope? Any cast to it, or straight?

Jeremy

Thanks Jeremy, the owner has a set of talley mounts on the way for it, it will wear a scope the majority of the time I suspect.

We haven’t talked about cast or toe, but something I should ask him. A few threads ago I built a stock for a Brno 22, I added cast and toe to it purely for learning sake, though there’s no recoil to see if it was super effective, I must say it’s the best shouldering rifle I own as I sculpted it to my southpaw fit.

Honestly it would be cool if he did want a little in it, I’d like that challenge again.

 

[Wapiti1]

Thanks Jeremy, the owner has a set of talley mounts on the way for it, it will wear a scope the majority of the time I suspect.

We haven’t talked about cast or toe, but something I should ask him. A few threads ago I built a stock for a Brno 22, I added cast and toe to it purely for learning sake, though there’s no recoil to see if it was super effective, I must say it’s the best shouldering rifle I own as I sculpted it to my southpaw fit.

Honestly it would be cool if he did want a little in it, I’d like that challenge again.

I asked because I was looking at your layout lines and didn't see any adjustments to the centerline.

That said, I think you are offset too much to add cast off at this point. Nice work on the inletting.

Jeremy

 

[Decker9]

I asked because I was looking at your layout lines and didn't see any adjustments to the centerline.

That said, I think you are offset too much to add cast off at this point. Nice work on the inletting.

Jeremy

Click! You’re 100% right, brain fart on my end lol, definitely won’t be enough room for cast being im crowding that side of the blank.

 

[Unckebob]

Any modern touches like QD cups instead of sling swivels? (I hate rear studs)

 

[Decker9]

Any modern touches like QD cups instead of sling swivels? (I hate rear studs)

I agree! Studs do the job but I find them a real pain sometimes, either coming loose, stripping out, or just catching on stuff. We will be adding the super grade style of mounts on this one, I’m excited to tie into those as Iv never inlayed anything before.

I believe it will have a gunsmith adaptor up front for a spartan bipod too, least it was in the plans.

It may not look like much change since the last photos, but is about 30 hours worth. I still have a gap along the ejection port, I think I can tighten it up though with sinking the metal into the wood a little more. I have about 3/16-1/4” spare wood on top and bottom luckily to help with my screw up.


One of the many places bad work can and will show up. To keep this swell as symmetrically free floated exactly the same on both sides, any difference in the radiuses around the swell will stand out like sore thumbs.



My big screw up here!

Part of stock making (ok a huge part) is being able to fix screw up’s so nobody knows they were there. You guys will know because I showed you lol! But I hope once it’s done you won’t be able to tell…

In all honestly though, if this gap doesn’t go away, this blank may turn into firewood and I’ll replace it and learn that lesson the hard way. This is my road to self learning stock making, where gaps and fugly lines are not allowed!!

 

[Macintosh]

@Decker9 really, firewood? Ive refused payment for stuff that I wasnt happy with 100%, but even if I ended up remaking it guess I wouldn't go the firewood route. You have the perfect situation for an invisible fix—worst case a sliver of wood from the same blank glued in place there, bedded underneath, would be all but invisible, ZERO loss of function, and test those “no one will ever know” skills.

 

[Decker9]

@Decker9 really, firewood? Ive refused payment for stuff that I wasnt happy with 100%, but even if I ended up remaking it guess I wouldn't go the firewood route. You have the perfect situation for an invisible fix—worst case a sliver of wood from the same blank glued in place there, bedded underneath, would be all but invisible, ZERO loss of function, and test those “no one will ever know” skills.

I think there are a lot of those slivers glued in out there that nobody even knows about eh haha. Firewood is only a figure of speech, only meaning I wouldn’t be happy with it, so I’d replace it and use the wood elsewhere.

Defiantly a learning lesson here though, I will now always leave that extra hair of wood in my layout.

I still think that gap will disappear in time here though