New Bow Setup Help

[MOwhitetail]

Hi guys,
I've always bowhunted here at home in Iowa so I never needed anything more than a cheap bow with a 3 pin sight. I'm getting a new bow and looking to get something that will work out west on an elk hunt in the future. I want to get it setup now so I can hunt whitetails with it this year and get used to the new equipment before next year. I have already shot all the new bows this year and I decided on the RX-4 Ultra, but I am not sure about components. Here is what I am thinking about now. Any help is appreciated.

Bow: RX-4 Ultra 70-80# limbs

Sight: HHA Tetra or Tetra Max (I need help deciding pin and scope size)

Peep: I need help deciding which peep is right for my conditions

Rest: Hoyt QAD Integrate

Release: open to suggestions

Stabilizers: not sure on setup for longer shots

Thanks for the help

 

[87TT]

#1, get the 60-70 limbs. They are plenty and if I was going to shoot out of a stand or tree, much easier to draw #2 for the sight, I like a multipin slider. No scope (not legal everywhere anyway) #3 get the peep that works for your sight. #4 Can't go wrong with a QAD rest. #5 I practice with an 8" Fuse torch stabilizer at 100yds every day.

 

[Brendan]

I like the Hoyt Ultras, great bows. I might get 70# too unless you're sure you're going to shoot 80.

Peep sight and scope size is personal preference, they work together. Pick the sight, scope size, get it set up for how far out you want to run it, then pick peep sight to work with both. I use a Spot Hogg Hogg Father with Large 5 Pin Guard on a slider, and a larger peep sight. If you don't have a press, you'll need a shop to help you with the peep install anyways.

Rest, I personally prefer Hamskea limb driven. And, you want a rest that you can move back towards the Tek Riser or run right up close to help with tuning.

Release, personal preference here. I use Carter / Nock-on hand held releases. For wrist I like Hamskea Drop Tine or Carter RX-1

Brand of stabilizer doesn't matter. Bee Stinger makes a nice 10/8 front/rear kit.

 

[MOwhitetail]

Thanks for the replies.

I'm not 100% set on the 80# limbs but I'm a big guy (6'3 270#) and I lift weights a lot so I figured if most guys shoot 70# I can step up to 80. Won't that benefit me when making longer shots?

 

[87TT]

Practice will help more. I pull 70# everyday but can tell you that I struggle at steep angle drawing such as up a steep hill or say from a sitting in a tree down.

 

[ZDR]

RX4 Ultra is a great bow. I set mine up the the QAD integrate rest and it is so nice to adjust. Using the MBG mountain lite sight, 10" cutter carbon stabilizer and Nock 2 It release. I shoot 60lbs and reaching out to 100 yards is no issue. Agree with the practice comments.

 

[Jimbob]

Try 80 lbs if you can and if you like it then great. You can really up the arrow weight keeping your speed in the 280-290 range.

 

[Reburn]

Practice will help more. I pull 70# everyday but can tell you that I struggle at steep angle drawing uch as up a steep hill or say from a sitting in a tree down.

This is spot on.
IMO. If you can pull 80 with realitive ease. You should be able to pull 70 50-60 times in a row before getting fatigued. IMO Practice and comfort is more important then pulling heavy weights. I lust for an 80 as well but know in my heart that after 20 or so shots I will be pretty wobbly. One of our best friends pulls a 95. He had it custom made when he was playing in the NFL and lifting everyday. He is dropping back to a 70 for comfort. There is just simply not anything a 70 can't kill that an 80 or 90 can.

 

[Brendan]

Thanks for the replies.

I'm not 100% set on the 80# limbs but I'm a big guy (6'3 270#) and I lift weights a lot so I figured if most guys shoot 70# I can step up to 80. Won't that benefit me when making longer shots?

I know muscleheads that have a very hard time drawing my 70# bow, and dudes who've never spent any time in the gym who can. So, depends how much you shoot. I shot an 80# bow for a while and ditched it for 70, and shoot my hoyt tuned to 73#.

80 requires more practice, staying in shape, shooting it more, harder to shoot. Think about late season in a tree stand, haven't been practicing, freezing your A$$ off, and a big buck walks in that you need to draw on sitting down in a controlled smooth manner under pressure - can you do it?

Here's the other thing - at 6'3" with a longer draw length you don't need it. Depends how much you "want" 80...

 

[bat-cave]

I am shooting the RX-4 Ultra as well. I have the 70-80# limbs. I will say that the RX-4 cam isn't as easy for me to draw as my RX-1, which is like butter and seemingly effortless at 70#. I have shot my RX-4 at 80#, but it was more challenging for awkward) sitting flat on your butt with legs out straight being the worst) and have settled at the 75# mark as the sweet spot for me. My point is that it's doable (I'm no beast and 53), but your call on draw weight of course ... just my experience.

Sight: Currently shooting an Axcel single pin, but will hunt with a Fast Eddie XL Dbl Pin .. just what I like the most

Peep: Hamskea Insight (You can change the aperture for your sight / indoor / outdoor lighting ... remove immediate need to decide peep size.

Rest: Hard to go wrong with the QAD. I'm a Hamskea fan, but the QAD will serve you well

Release: I am shooting the Nock2It, but also a big fan of the Stan Perfex

Stabilizer: Currently shooting the Nock On Riddance 8" with a 5' deg down angle. I've also done really well with the Crossroads. I'm no amazing archer, but the Crossroads has helped on long 80yd+ shots. This year my son is using it and I'm using the Riddance and shooting better than I ever have before at 100yd's+. Granted I will never give the top shooters a run for their money, but I'm pretty happy with an 8" group at 120 yards!

 

[MOwhitetail]

So I guess the consensus is that I should stick with 70# limbs?

When I was shooting the RX4 in the shop I shot it at 70 and thought it was easy enough so I should turn it up to 80 if I am going to be shooting elk or bear with it since I currently shoot 70 for whitetails. I guess if thats not necessary then I will stick with 70.

Thanks for the replies everyone.

 

[Brendan]

Definitely not necessary. 70# bow, 500+ grain arrow with your setup will be more than enough to hammer an Elk or bear no problem. Mechanicals if you want, depending on the shots you'd take. What's your draw length anyways, 31"?

If you want one, and have no problem drawing it under all conditions, then go for it though. Just be aware of the tradeoffs.... You can turn an 80# bow down, but a bow is more efficient turned all the way up.

 

[MOwhitetail]

Definitely not necessary. 70# bow, 500+ grain arrow with your setup will be more than enough to hammer an Elk or bear no problem. Mechanicals if you want, depending on the shots you'd take. What's your draw length anyways, 31"?

If you want one, and have no problem drawing it under all conditions, then go for it though. Just be aware of the tradeoffs.... You can turn an 80# bow down, but a bow is more efficient turned all the way up.

I have been shooting 30" but I've been kicking around the idea of a thumb release which would likely mean lengthening a bit.

 

[Zac]

So I guess the consensus is that I should stick with 70# limbs?

When I was shooting the RX4 in the shop I shot it at 70 and thought it was easy enough so I should turn it up to 80 if I am going to be shooting elk or bear with it since I currently shoot 70 for whitetails. I guess if thats not necessary then I will stick with 70.

Thanks for the replies everyone.

It depends on how much holding weight you shoot the best. Many people shoot higher poundage better because it decreases their let off. So if you pull 80 fine you may find it more forgiving.

 

[MOwhitetail]

It depends on how much holding weight you shoot the best. Many people shoot higher poundage better because it decreases their let off. So if you pull 80 fine you may find it more forgiving.

Can you expand on this a little? That seems counterintuitive to me.

 

[Brendan]

Higher holding weight is more stable for some people. It's why target archers often shoot 65% or 75% letoff bows (but they're usually shooting 50-60# bows). But, it's not for everyone, some people have a hard time getting used to it.

When you increase your draw weight, you're increasing the holding weight in the valley as compared to a lower poundage bow even with let off % staying the same.

 

[cslater3]

If you can pull the 80# limbs with ease I would say go for it. Bows are made to be shot best at their max weight so if you want the 70-80 but are going to shoot at the bottom end I would say just stick with the 60-70.

 

[SDHunter44]

RX4 Ultra is a great bow. I set mine up the the QAD integrate rest and it is so nice to adjust. Using the MBG mountain lite sight, 10" cutter carbon stabilizer and Nock 2 It release. I shoot 60lbs and reaching out to 100 yards is no issue. Agree with the practice comments.

Curious what this set up cost you, sounds like a great set up. How much does it weight all put together?


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[fwafwow]

I just ordered my RX-4 so that my RX-1 will be my backup bow. My RX-1 is set at ~73# and I will ask that the new bow be set up as close as possible to that same draw weight. I'm 50, 6'2" and maybe 210, but there are days when I do think about dropping the draw weight. Threadz strings on both.

I have a HHA Tetra on the RX-1 (along with a Schlite Sight Lite) but I'm going with the Sword Punisher Pro for the new build. (My archery guy said he likes the light on it and to try it out, but I can always swap if needed). BTW, I really liked the single pin, and my first single pin was a Hoyt, but at my age (50) the tape was pretty hard to see until I switched to mono vision contacts.

I'm such a noob that I have no idea what size peep I use - sorry, can't help you there.

I'm going with the Hoyt QAD Integrate

I just changed this year from a wrist release to a Nock2It

I have the Hoyt Carbon Pro Stack stabilizer on my RX-1, and since these will travel together, I'm not getting another stabilizer. Same with the quiver - I have a prior generation Hoyt 5 arrow CF quiver that I can just swap out if needed.

Good luck!

 

[shooterrdy]

My RX4 Ultra is 70lb 80% mods, 2 cam 30 DL
509 grn arrow 276 drawing 71.6Lb.
Its arguably the best carbon hoyt ever made.the draw stop on the mods has worked well so far.
Getting ready to instal new strings and keep originals for back up set.
I use the B 3 Omega and also a Stan Element release to keep Me honest. As for stab. I am running 10" CBE carbon with the A bomb on the front. Its pretty good.