MRAD reticle yardage measuring: tips & experience

[need4sneed]

I’m looking to practice using my reticle to range deer (18” chest standard) while I can verify with a working rangefinder.

My thought is to keep a card (like dope) with:
“500/Mrad = yards” but also a listed chart of solved equations for yard increments 0-600.
Obviously a big part of this is to pattern in some memorization.

BUT, any considerations to the 18” belly to back variations (specifically, does and young deer to mature bucks).

Is there a known range point where reticle accuracy is completely compromised (on a 14x or 18x zoom max)?
Any other tips or experience to speak to?

Yes I had a rangefinder go down on me and yes I am very salty about it. Looking to add a parachute ranging plan to my skill set.

 

[SnakeEater]

The mil relation formula is below, you’ll need the average size of a deer say from top of back to belly then multiply that by the constant (27.77) then divide by mils. It works best when using a reticle that has the mils broken down to 1/10ths somewhere on the reticle and always estimate to two decimal places (ie: 1.25) for best accuracy. I posted a pic of the tremor 5 reticle as an example of the 1/10th section.

You could do the math prior to give you the mil sizes for a dope card.

Yards
size of target in inches * 27.77 / size of object in mils = range in yards

 

[nm.otter]

I'm thinking the box on the THLR reticle will prove useful here.

 

[elsb0048]

Seems like this is relevant.
not sure if he gave more detail on how he did the maths in the rest of the thread but could be worth a look-see.

Nothing digital.

View attachment 580078

 

[alexnelon]

If it’s smaller than 2 mils you’ll probably measure wrong enough to miss.

Wobble zone plus size variance and angle of observation are plenty enough variables to make it generally a bad idea to try to mil-range past ~300 yards.

 

[need4sneed]

Seems like this is relevant.
not sure if he gave more detail on how he did the maths in the rest of the thread but could be worth a look-see.

Very helpful, thank you!

 

[need4sneed]

If it’s smaller than 2 mils you’ll probably measure wrong enough to miss.

Wobble zone plus size variance and angle of observation are plenty enough variables to make it generally a bad idea to try to mil-range past ~300 yards.

Makes sense, and would agree having never practiced it. Even at a glance of what this is in application, 400 yards seems like the upper threshold of what’s possible in accurate ranging as far as shooting goes, (all variables controlled).
Routing a stalk with known ranges also has its benefits. I’ve certainly been guilty of thinking: “that deer is about 400 yards” - to pull up the range finder and get 280.
I’ll practice it either way.
I guess I am looking for upper limit opinions just like this and also short-hand ways to accommodate variance in deer chest size from an 18” standard - or if that’s even worth considering.

 

[ATL]

I have been forced to Mil range on animals before. The farthest shot being an Antelope estimated with this method at 460 yards. It worked great, but I have been trained to do it, and teach the method in a formal class setting regularly. Not that it is difficult, just that I likely practice it more than others.

This method of finding an accurate range requires practice and preparation before hand. Best thing to do is have a pre-calculated range card with the Mil measurement for the expected animals body size for the expected distances. On that Antelope hunt my card was set for 25 yard increments to 650 yards, and a 14.5” chest height for the calculation. Different animal, different card. My standard “every use” cards are set for 12”. I can easily break that length down to what I need in the moment.

Practice will inform you of your error percentage when confirmed with a LRF. The more you practice the more accurate the range estimation will be with Mil ranging. From there you will be able to figure out the maximum yardage that your error percentage still allows for a hit within the vitals.

The electronics (LRF, ballistic app, Kestrel) are wonderful pieces of equipment, but don’t let their failure at the moment stop you from possibly making an accurate shot. You have the tool required to get an accurate range built in to your scope. Learn to use it properly and have the measurements pre-calculated to make it easier/quicker.

 

[Scottf270]

I have started to use 1st ffp scopes and mils just in the last year. Has made medium range shooting much easier. I understand using the reticle to measure but with a good rangefinder and a verified drop chart, what advantage does measuring with the reticle really offer?

Seems like trying to guess an objects size, then measure it with the reticle, then do math calculations in your head offers little to using a rangefinder and then dialing or holding for correction. Am I missing something?

 

[Fireflyfishing]

I have started to use 1st ffp scopes and mils just in the last year. Has made medium range shooting much easier. I understand using the reticle to measure but with a good rangefinder and a verified drop chart, what advantage does measuring with the reticle really offer?

Seems like trying to guess an objects size, then measure it with the reticle, then do math calculations in your head offers little to using a rangefinder and then dialing or holding for correction. Am I missing something?

When your LRF takes a dump…then how do you range an animal?

 

[need4sneed]

I have started to use 1st ffp scopes and mils just in the last year. Has made medium range shooting much easier. I understand using the reticle to measure but with a good rangefinder and a verified drop chart, what advantage does measuring with the reticle really offer?

Seems like trying to guess an objects size, then measure it with the reticle, then do math calculations in your head offers little to using a rangefinder and then dialing or holding for correction. Am I missing something?

It’s in an effort to establish a backup plan for when a LRF will not function.
With a chart of solved math equations it seems pretty fast to learn - when practiced.
Patterning in some memorization also makes it very fast to apply in shooting, at the appropriate ranges. (With known, memorized elevation drops - which I have found some proficiency with).
It also creates another way to landmark when mapping.
It is ultimately a parachute plan for an “if/when” that occurs very rarely. Which is a roundabout way of saying: I’m a dork

 

[need4sneed]

I have been forced to Mil range on animals before. The farthest shot being an Antelope estimated with this method at 460 yards. It worked great, but I have been trained to do it, and teach the method in a formal class setting regularly. Not that it is difficult, just that I likely practice it more than others.

This method of finding an accurate range requires practice and preparation before hand. Best thing to do is have a pre-calculated range card with the Mil measurement for the expected animals body size for the expected distances. On that Antelope hunt my card was set for 25 yard increments to 650 yards, and a 14.5” chest height for the calculation. Different animal, different card. My standard “every use” cards are set for 12”. I can easily break that length down to what I need in the moment.

Practice will inform you of your error percentage when confirmed with a LRF. The more you practice the more accurate the range estimation will be with Mil ranging. From there you will be able to figure out the maximum yardage that your error percentage still allows for a hit within the vitals.

The electronics (LRF, ballistic app, Kestrel) are wonderful pieces of equipment, but don’t let their failure at the moment stop you from possibly making an accurate shot. You have the tool required to get an accurate range built in to your scope. Learn to use it properly and have the measurements pre-calculated to make it easier/quicker.

I’m going to be doing this with whitetail and 18” chest. - realistically off of way more doe and immature bucks when practicing.

Did you find 14.5” for antelope applicable and accurate to any and all antelope? Just bucks? Or just adult antelope of either sex?

This will be done with a: mil R F1. Which has a 2 mil on 1/10ths scale. (Haven’t stated that yet).

 

[wpeach1912]

When your LRF takes a dump…then how do you range an animal?

Don’t take shots I need a rangefinder for or use OnX for an estimation. If your limit is 400, you can just use some form of MPBR. Ranging with a reticle isn’t super great, but would likely be ok inside of 400. Have you had an RF take a dump? Maybe I’ve just been lucky, but I’ve never had one go down on me other than out of batteries. I have extra rangefinders I can leave in the truck too

 

[Formidilosus]

I’m going to be doing this with whitetail and 18” chest. - realistically off of way more doe and immature bucks when practicing.

Where are you doing this?

 

[need4sneed]

Seems like this is relevant.
not sure if he gave more detail on how he did the maths in the rest of the thread but could be worth a look-see.

Finally just read the whole thread. Great stuff - Shooting 301 Course.

 

[need4sneed]

Where are you doing this?

MN Prairie & surrounding prairie/high plains

 

[Formidilosus]

MN Prairie & surrounding prairie/high plains

How large (weight) are your deer on average- legitimate weight, not “300 pound buck”?

 

[need4sneed]

deer in the area: as big as I’ve seen mountain west, objectively much larger than what I’ve seen in west TX.
We’re not measuring field dressed deer at all personally - but it’s areas where yearly big buck contests go over 200 yoy.

 

[need4sneed]

Little bit of research, matching what I see:
•Looks like curved horn male on the hoof about 175 lbs average
•Adult female 145 lbs avg

 

[Formidilosus]

Little bit of research, matching what I see:
•Looks like curved horn male on the hoof about 175 lbs average
•Adult female 145 lbs avg

You’ll need to measure some, but 16-17” back to brisket will probably be closer to reality for you. 18” is a big deer back to brisket.