MDT Hnt26 diy buttpad above centerline mod

😂. I haven’t tried to get them super tight, just snugged them down good and mine haven’t given me any issues. If you used the epoxy to just glue the nut down instead of filling the surrounding void I can see how that could break free. The instamoph fills in the surrounding void and locks it in so it can’t spin. Jb weld would probably work good to. Once my instamorph set up I did tack it in there with a dab of superglue just so it wouldn’t fall out.
 
I'm about to do this. To confirm, you're using 4 screws now? Two screws that came with the stock to attach the spacer that's aligned at the original height and the two new screws to attach the offset/raised spacer where the buttpad goes?
 
I'm about to do this. To confirm, you're using 4 screws now? Two screws that came with the stock to attach the spacer that's aligned at the original height and the two new screws to attach the offset/raised spacer where the buttpad goes?
Correct
 
3.4 oz w/ hardware vs 7.8 oz for the metal MDT adjustable pad. 4.4 oz savings. Not a bad way to save a quarter lb off your HNT 26 and make it way more shootable than factory.

I hated shooting it without the adjustable pad, but couldn’t justify keeping it on for sheep hunting. This mod makes the recoil impulse straight back, like the Rokstok, making it far easier to spot impacts even with the 223 in the chassis.
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Seeing as how the height should be more less the same for any action in an HNT26, what height did you use there? 3/4"?
 
Seeing as how the height should be more less the same for any action in an HNT26, what height did you use there? 3/4"?
Let’s call it 9/16”. I’m in Manila at the moment, otherwise I’d measure it for ya. It was just an eyeball job, as I pretty much knew where I liked the adjustable pad at.

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Can someone tell me the benefits of this? Im fairly new to chassis and have a hnt 26 on a tikka 6.5prc. Is this more beneficial for prone or bench? Does it mitigate recoil? I have some extra spacers and this mod looks pretty easy.
 
Can someone tell me the benefits of this? Im fairly new to chassis and have a hnt 26 on a tikka 6.5prc. Is this more beneficial for prone or bench? Does it mitigate recoil? I have some extra spacers and this mod looks pretty easy.
By getting the butt pad up higher the intent is for the recoil impulse to be closer to the resulting reaction on your shoulder. This should reduce the amount of muzzle rise and make it easier to spot impacts.
 
I did this mod to my ACC premier and can’t wait to get it out to shoot.
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It is ironic I’m doing this lightweight modification on a 16# gun…I’m up against the weight limit for NRL & have to compromise in areas to make weight


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So I came up with a cheap, lightweight way to get your pad above centerline on your Hnt 26 chassis using two bolts and two of the LOP spacers that came with the chassis.

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First I took the spacers, and cut off the nubs that are on the flat side. On the one I left the top nubs, and on the other I left the bottom nubs, you can cut them off if you want, but I figured it mite look better with them there
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Next I put tape on them, clamped them together, and marked where to drill my holes. I then drilled my holes, be careful that the center rib on the back of the plate don’t jump your drill bit. I transferred my marks to the back on the rib and started with a small bit thru the rib just to help make sure my hole was centered.

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Once that was done I took a dremal tool and cut back the ribs enough to get the nuts and bolt heads to sit down in. I also made sure all the bolts fit nicely and attached the pad. While the pad was attached I used instamorph to lock my nuts in, epoxy would also work for this.
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Once that’s done it’s ready for assembly
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Cont….

Is there a different version of instamorph that isn’t pellets? I tried that and failed to even come close to workable solution. Went epoxy with release agent instead.

Maybe I’m doing the heat process incorrectly.


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Is there a different version of instamorph that isn’t pellets? I tried that and failed to even come close to workable solution. Went epoxy with release agent instead.

Maybe I’m doing the heat process incorrectly.


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I’m not sure, Iv always used pellets.
Iv been just using tinfoil and a torch lighter to heat mine, you just heat it till it’s all clear and workable.
I did have to use a dab of superglue to keep it in place in the spacer. I just used it because I had it on hand and it was quick and easy. Worked fine for me.
 
I’m not sure, Iv always used pellets.
Iv been just using tinfoil and a torch lighter to heat mine, you just heat it till it’s all clear and workable.
I did have to use a dab of superglue to keep it in place in the spacer. I just used it because I had it on hand and it was quick and easy. Worked fine for me.
Not to take away from this, but I used some quick set black epoxy and it’s been great so far.

This was such a great idea. Still owe you a beer for this!
 
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