- Joined
- Feb 28, 2024
- Messages
- 106
Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
CorrectI'm about to do this. To confirm, you're using 4 screws now? Two screws that came with the stock to attach the spacer that's aligned at the original height and the two new screws to attach the offset/raised spacer where the buttpad goes?
3.4 oz w/ hardware vs 7.8 oz for the metal MDT adjustable pad. 4.4 oz savings. Not a bad way to save a quarter lb off your HNT 26 and make it way more shootable than factory.
I hated shooting it without the adjustable pad, but couldn’t justify keeping it on for sheep hunting. This mod makes the recoil impulse straight back, like the Rokstok, making it far easier to spot impacts even with the 223 in the chassis.
View attachment 998578
By getting the butt pad up higher the intent is for the recoil impulse to be closer to the resulting reaction on your shoulder. This should reduce the amount of muzzle rise and make it easier to spot impacts.Can someone tell me the benefits of this? Im fairly new to chassis and have a hnt 26 on a tikka 6.5prc. Is this more beneficial for prone or bench? Does it mitigate recoil? I have some extra spacers and this mod looks pretty easy.

So I came up with a cheap, lightweight way to get your pad above centerline on your Hnt 26 chassis using two bolts and two of the LOP spacers that came with the chassis.
View attachment 997195View attachment 997196
First I took the spacers, and cut off the nubs that are on the flat side. On the one I left the top nubs, and on the other I left the bottom nubs, you can cut them off if you want, but I figured it mite look better with them there
View attachment 997197
Next I put tape on them, clamped them together, and marked where to drill my holes. I then drilled my holes, be careful that the center rib on the back of the plate don’t jump your drill bit. I transferred my marks to the back on the rib and started with a small bit thru the rib just to help make sure my hole was centered.
View attachment 997198View attachment 997199View attachment 997200View attachment 997201
Once that was done I took a dremal tool and cut back the ribs enough to get the nuts and bolt heads to sit down in. I also made sure all the bolts fit nicely and attached the pad. While the pad was attached I used instamorph to lock my nuts in, epoxy would also work for this.
View attachment 997202
Once that’s done it’s ready for assembly
View attachment 997203View attachment 997204
Cont….
I’m not sure, Iv always used pellets.Is there a different version of instamorph that isn’t pellets? I tried that and failed to even come close to workable solution. Went epoxy with release agent instead.
Maybe I’m doing the heat process incorrectly.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk