Beendare
WKR
Dave,
let me see if I can clarify what Matt, Myself and others are trying to tell you......My take, but first a little background;
I've shot these carbons for over 20 years.....bowhunting for over 30 with plenty of big animals to my credit.
I was sponsored by Beman back in the 80's/90's and shot the skinny 4mm shafts for many years.
I asked myself this same question about arrows decades ago.
One of the keys is perfect arrow flight. You mentioned paper tuning...but do you realize that is only half way there, right? A lot of arrow flight problems don't show up until you screw a BH on. You have to BH tune to insure perfect arrow flight. I think a lot of the problems with these setups is due to the arrow hitting at a slight angle...it doesn't take much to not only lose penetration....but to put more stress on your components especially at the BH connection.
I've actually seen proof of this^ many times. I've also seen guys with well tuned setups shoot at elk I've called in and due to form/with hunting gear on/kneeling in the woods/ nerves/etc....the arrow had a tiny wobble and penetration and arrow performance was significantly affected. Shooting a perfect hunting shot is a bit different than on the range in a T shirt....yes your arrow flight can be affected and without someone watching over your shoulder...a guy might not realize it. If you read between the lines on forums...this happens a lot.
The next most important factor is perfect arrow assembly. If the BH mating surface is even the tiniest bit off.....or the ends of the carbon shredded just a tiny bit...it weakens this critical connection. The short version; Meticulous arrow assembly is important and most guys just screw on their heads right off the saw.
Arrows; there are many that are strong these days by all mnfrs. Something with a good GPI and good spine consistency.
BH; a strong BH. Keep in mind, all BH's work...both mech and Fixed....but some heads put more torque on the end of the arrow than others....fighting with the 'structural integrity" instead of enhancing it.
If anyone wants direction to some good threads on other sites about this stuff with more detail....PM me.
Bottom line...the keys to a good arrow setup are the basics....not so much a purchased add on accessory or 'Adding FOC" If you don't take care of the basics....you will still have problems. Hope this helps.
let me see if I can clarify what Matt, Myself and others are trying to tell you......My take, but first a little background;
I've shot these carbons for over 20 years.....bowhunting for over 30 with plenty of big animals to my credit.
I was sponsored by Beman back in the 80's/90's and shot the skinny 4mm shafts for many years.
I asked myself this same question about arrows decades ago.
One of the keys is perfect arrow flight. You mentioned paper tuning...but do you realize that is only half way there, right? A lot of arrow flight problems don't show up until you screw a BH on. You have to BH tune to insure perfect arrow flight. I think a lot of the problems with these setups is due to the arrow hitting at a slight angle...it doesn't take much to not only lose penetration....but to put more stress on your components especially at the BH connection.
I've actually seen proof of this^ many times. I've also seen guys with well tuned setups shoot at elk I've called in and due to form/with hunting gear on/kneeling in the woods/ nerves/etc....the arrow had a tiny wobble and penetration and arrow performance was significantly affected. Shooting a perfect hunting shot is a bit different than on the range in a T shirt....yes your arrow flight can be affected and without someone watching over your shoulder...a guy might not realize it. If you read between the lines on forums...this happens a lot.
The next most important factor is perfect arrow assembly. If the BH mating surface is even the tiniest bit off.....or the ends of the carbon shredded just a tiny bit...it weakens this critical connection. The short version; Meticulous arrow assembly is important and most guys just screw on their heads right off the saw.
Arrows; there are many that are strong these days by all mnfrs. Something with a good GPI and good spine consistency.
BH; a strong BH. Keep in mind, all BH's work...both mech and Fixed....but some heads put more torque on the end of the arrow than others....fighting with the 'structural integrity" instead of enhancing it.
If anyone wants direction to some good threads on other sites about this stuff with more detail....PM me.
Bottom line...the keys to a good arrow setup are the basics....not so much a purchased add on accessory or 'Adding FOC" If you don't take care of the basics....you will still have problems. Hope this helps.
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